Good evening everyone!

Many people dream of owning a luxury watch at least once in their lives. The watches made by the world's top brands with their technology and conviction are said to be a lifetime item that can be passed down through generations.

A luxury watch is a wonderful item that can last a lifetime, but how much does it cost to maintain it for a long time? This time, we will explain how to maintain your watch so that you don't end up regretting it by saying, "I never thought it would cost so much..." I would like to talk about the types of maintenance costs for luxury watches and the estimated costs . Of course, I will not just tell you about the types and estimated costs, but I will also explain some tips to reduce maintenance costs, so please enjoy until the end.

Types of maintenance costs for luxury watches and estimated costs

Regular maintenance

The first is regular maintenance . Just as a car needs to be inspected every two years, a luxury watch also needs to be overhauled .

 What is an " overhaul "?
 ▶①: Disassemble the watch
 ▶②: Check for any abnormalities in parts or operation
 ▶③: Carry out appropriate maintenance according to ②
 ▶④: Reassemble 
*For quartz watches, the battery will be replaced at this time.

The frequency of the warranty will vary depending on the environment and method of use, the brand , and the movement installed, but a general guideline is that it should last about five years . Recently, the technology of each manufacturer has improved, and some brands have extended their warranty periods.

It is recommended that you carry out this regular maintenance, or overhaul, according to the recommended intervals even if your watch is working properly. The reason for this is that, just like with general industrial products, by taking care of your watch before it is too late, you can reduce the chances of serious damage.

The cost of such regular maintenance /overhauls will vary depending on the brand, the movement mechanism, and whether you contact an authorized store or a private repair shop.

 [ Major brands: Estimated overhaul costs at authorized stores ]
 ▶【Rolex】 ⇒From about 50,000 yen
 ▶ [Patek Philippe] ⇒From about 121,000 yen
 ▶ [Audemars Piguet] ⇒From about 90,000 yen
 ▶ [Vacheron Constantin] ⇒ From about 92,000 yen

For more details, please see the previous column.
[2021 Edition] Mechanical Watches "Maintenance for 18 Brands ①"

[2021 Edition] Mechanical Watches "Maintenance for 18 Brands ②"

[2021 Edition] Mechanical Watches "Maintenance for 18 Brands ③"

[2021 Edition] Mechanical Watches "Maintenance ④"

Repairs in case of breakdown

The second issue is repairs when it breaks down . If you use a watch for many years, there is naturally a risk of trouble or breakdowns. Most watches are designed so that the inside of the watch cannot be seen, and it is the inside that is most likely to cause trouble or breakdowns. If you leave this trouble or breakdown unattended, it may affect other areas as well. If your watch is not working properly or you have dropped it, you should have it repaired as soon as possible.

The cost of repairing such a breakdown varies greatly depending on the damaged parts and contents, and like overhauls, it also varies by brand and model. Furthermore, after requesting an overhaul, a breakdown may be discovered and repairs may be required. In that case, the cost of repairs and replacement parts will be charged in addition to the overhaul cost.

 [ Repair contents and estimated costs for major breakdowns ] *Varies greatly depending on brand and model.
・Glass replacement: from 6,000 yen
・Needle installation: from 4,000 yen
・Around the crown: from 8,000 yen
・Packing replacement: from 1,000 yen

As mentioned above, maintenance costs can be broadly divided into two categories: " regular maintenance " and " repairs when broken down ." Many people may feel that these costs are "surprisingly high," but if you neglect "regular maintenance" and "repairs when broken down," in the worst case scenario, the equipment may become irreparable, so be sure to do them properly.

Tips for keeping maintenance costs down

From here on, we will talk about ways to reduce maintenance costs, which can sometimes seem a little expensive. By taking good care of your watch on a daily basis, you can reduce the risk of it breaking down and keep maintenance costs down, so please read through to the end and use the information as a reference.

How to use the crown and push buttons

First, let's talk about how to handle the crown . The main uses of the crown are " winding the mainspring " and " adjusting the time ". If it is an automatic watch, as long as you are wearing it, the mainspring will be automatically wound as the name suggests. In other words, if you continue to wear the watch within the power reserve of XX hours, you will rarely have to touch the crown. On the other hand, a hand-wound watch will always wind up the crown. When winding, there is a signal called " winding stop " that says "I can't wind it any more!" (a certain amount of load is applied so that it cannot be wound any more), but if a human applies a certain amount of force, the mainspring will be subjected to a strong load and in some cases it may break with a "crack!". Therefore, it is important to stop winding as soon as it stops winding. Also, if you do not know how to do it, be sure to ask the staff at the store where you purchased it.

Next, how to handle push buttons . Most watches with push buttons have a chronograph function (*Of course, there are exceptions such as dual time and minute repeaters) , but in that case, if you suddenly press the reset button while the chronograph is running, it can lead to deterioration or failure of the parts. Also, when resetting after stopping, avoid places far from the 12 o'clock position where the hands return to their original position more (*Avoid the 5 o'clock to 7 o'clock positions) . In the worst case scenario, the hands may come off.

*For more details, please watch the video below.

Don't be overconfident even with a waterproof watch

Next, don't be overconfident even with a waterproof watch . If you have a luxury watch that is waterproof to hundreds or thousands of meters, some people may want to wear it in the bath or shower. However, sudden changes in temperature can have a negative effect. Also, most waterproof watches have a screw-down crown, but if you forget to tighten it, water will get inside the watch, no matter how waterproof it is, and the risk of it breaking will increase greatly. If you want to buy a luxury waterproof watch and wear it in active situations, be sure to check it before wearing it.

Do not place the device too close to a smartphone or computer

Next, do not place the watch too close to smartphones or computers . If a watch is placed close to a product that emits strong magnetism, it will become magnetized . This is a condition in which magnetism is transferred to the movement, causing the parts to not function properly and disrupting the accuracy. In recent years, there are many watches that are highly resistant to magnetism, but magnetism still has a negative effect on watches. In today's world where the Internet is so developed, it is difficult to avoid smartphones and computers, but when it comes to luxury watches, it is best to be careful not to place them too close.

*For more details, please watch the video below.

Be careful about the time you use the calendar function

Finally, be careful about the time you operate the calendar function . Mechanical watches with a calendar function have a time period called the operation prohibition period , during which the date must not be changed. This period is between 8 PM and 4 AM the following morning. In mechanical watches, the gears move to gradually change the date after 8 PM, when the date changes, so if you try to change the date forcibly, there is a risk that the gears will chip. Therefore, if you want to change the calendar during this period, you should first set the time to 12 noon before changing it.

*For more details, please watch the video below.

summary

What did you think?

Luxury watches are said to last a lifetime, but as you can see, they require not only maintenance costs but also proper care.

You pay a large amount of money and are filled with passion when purchasing a luxury watch. In order to use it for a long time and cherish it, it is important to fully understand the contents of this article.

I hope that after reading this article, you will become interested in luxury watches.

see you!

コミットtv 八木コラム