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Good evening everyone!
This column talks about mechanical watches from an engineer's point of view. This is the 13th installment.
"Differences in specifications and prices of semi-vintage Rolexes"
I will be talking about this topic.
[Rolex] Even if the reference number (model number) is the same model, the value can vary greatly depending on the year, specifications, etc.
This time, we will focus on sports Rolexes with five-digit serial numbers, known as "semi-vintage," and talk about the aspects that have a major impact on the value of each watch, such as the buckle, luminous paint, and engravings. Please read to the end.
1) Buckle specifications (single lock, double lock)
"Single lock" is a simply designed buckle that was used until around 1995.
Although it is less durable than the double buckle, its simple design has led to a resurgence in popularity in recent years, and currently single buckles are more valuable than double buckles.
The bracelet clasp has a stronger structure than a single lock, giving it a more secure "double lock" design that will prevent the buckle from opening accidentally.
This is a buckle that is only found on sports models. In terms of manufacturing costs and performance, double buckles are obviously more expensive than single buckles, but in terms of "rarity value," single buckles win.
I'm sure there are many people who prefer "double lock" in terms of design and functionality, so this may be a good option for those people.
②Differences in luminous paint (tritium, luminova)
Tritium was used as a luminous paint until around 1998.
Because it is a "radioactive substance," its use in watches is completely prohibited, and it is a luminous paint that does not exist in current models. Tritium has the characteristic of discoloring over time , and beautifully burnt tritium is highly regarded, surpassing Luminova.
In addition, when requesting maintenance from the manufacturer, any deteriorating tritium luminous parts must be replaced, and the number of watches with original parts maintained is decreasing year by year. As a result, tritium luminous watches that are in good condition and show beautiful aging changes are becoming rare.
On the other hand, Luminova hardly deteriorates over time, and unlike self-luminous paints such as tritium, it can be used semi-permanently. Furthermore, it is brighter than conventional luminous paints and glows for a longer period of time than conventional fluorescent paints, so Luminova is probably the best choice for users who are looking for practicality.
Did you know that Luminova was actually developed by a Japanese company called Nemoto Specialty Chemicals Co., Ltd.? The phrase "N Night Light," which is a combination of the "N" from Nemoto, is also registered as a trademark, which is a great source of pride for a fellow Japanese person.
In 2000, the watch industry had a 100% market share, and the value of Luminova as a luminous paint for watches remains firmly established to this day.
3) With or without side holes in lugs
In the past, Rolexes had holes for the spring bars that went through the lugs (connecting the case to the bracelet), but from the late 1990s, these holes were gradually changed to be invisible. This is a charming retro detail that is reminiscent of the four-digit vintage Rolexes.
As for the Explorer Ref. 14270 shown in the image, the "early model" version, which features a single buckle, tritium luminous material, and a case with a side hole, is particularly popular and has seen its market price soar.
However, not all "early specifications" are expensive. If we look at the GMT-Master II "Ref. 16710," the market price for the later model with a double buckle, Luminova luminous material, and a case without side holes can be the same or even higher than that of the early models, so it is interesting to note that the market price for early specifications is not necessarily higher.
The price is decided by taking into consideration a wide range of factors, including the timing of specification changes, the difference in distribution volume due to the timing of model changes, and simply whether it looks cool. Of course, ultimately, the condition of the item will have a major impact on the price.
④ Presence or absence of roulette mark
There are Rolexes that have a roulette engraving with "ROLEX" engraved around the inside of the case and those that do not.
This has been around since 2004, and is now a standard specification used in all models. By the way, if there is a model with an engraving and one without an engraving in the same condition, the model with the engraving tends to be more valuable.
summary
What did you think?
The reason why there are price differences between individual Rolex models of the same type is largely due to the specifications specific to the era in which they were manufactured.
Currently, it seems that popularity is divided into two types: the "early model" with a vintage feel, and the "late model" which is closer to the current model and has a more luxurious feel. However, in the end, we hope that you will choose based on your individual taste, budget, and intuition!
We hope that this article has been useful to you and has piqued your interest in luxury watches! If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us directly and we will answer them thoroughly. We look forward to your visit and inquiries.
Look forward to the next one! See you next time!
