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Good evening, everyone!
This column discusses mechanical watches from an engineer's perspective. For the 34th installment, we will be talking about:
"All About Bezels Part 2"
I will be discussing this topic.
Last time, I introduced the role of bezels and some of the designs commonly seen on dress watches. This time, I will introduce bezel designs often used in sports models.
First, as a review of last time, I will explain the function of the bezel.
What is a Bezel?
The term "bezel" refers to the ring-shaped part around the watch's crystal (glass).
Originally meaning "frame" or "border," it also refers to the outer frame of LCD displays on computers and smartphones. In watches, it refers to the part around the outer edge of the dial, which is the face of the watch, superficially encompassing the outside of the crystal.
While its original role was to secure the crystal, the role of bezels has evolved over the years with the increasing multi-functionality and design advancements of wristwatches. Various bezels have emerged, including those with scales for measurement functions and those adorned with diamonds and other gemstones.
Now, let's take a look at the types of bezels found on sports models.
Sports Model Bezel Designs
1. Tachymeter Bezel
This function, displayed on the bezel of chronograph models, measures average speed. By reading the numbers on the tachymeter, you can determine the speed without calculation. Rolex models often state "UNITS PER HOUR," while other watches may say "TACHYMETRE," followed by numerical values.
Many chronographs feature a tachymeter bezel along with a chronograph hand. You press stop when you have traveled 1km. The number indicated by the chronograph hand at that moment will be "the distance traveled per hour," which is the average speed.
On Rolex Daytona bezels, there are those called "200 Tachy," "300 Tachy," and "400 Tachy." It is said that these numbers increased in accordance with the rise in the average speed of racing cars. Today, rare bezels from these transitional periods are traded at extremely high prices.
2. Bidirectional Rotating Bezel
This is a bezel that can be moved in both directions. By aligning the scale with the hour and minute hands, you can read the elapsed time. It is useful for simple time measurements.
It's surprisingly convenient in daily life, such as rotating the bezel to remember what time you went on a break during work.
Representative models include the Rolex Turn-O-Graph and Yacht-Master (early models had a unidirectional rotating bezel).
3. Unidirectional Rotating Bezel
The unidirectional rotating bezel allows you to read elapsed time by aligning the scale engraved on the bezel of a diver's watch with the hour and minute hands.
The numbers displayed on the bezel are marked in 1-minute increments from 0 to 15 minutes, and in 5-minute increments thereafter. The unidirectional rotating bezel is designed to move in only one direction (usually counter-clockwise) to prevent accidental rotation during a dive.
The reason it only rotates in a fixed direction is for safety. If it moves forward, it would only shorten the expected diving time. However, if it moves backward, it could lead to a misunderstanding that "less time has passed than expected," potentially causing an extended dive. To prevent such malfunctions, the presence of a unidirectional rotating mechanism is now standardized in diver's watch specifications.
Representative models include the Rolex Submariner, Omega Seamaster, and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms.
4. GMT Bezel
This is a bidirectional rotating bezel with a 24-hour scale. Combined with a 24-hour hand, it allows you to read the time in a second time zone.
In the case of the GMT-Master II, by using the short hand and the bidirectional rotating bezel in conjunction, it is also possible to read the time in a third time zone. A common feature is that the bezel often has different colors for the upper and lower halves to easily distinguish between AM and PM.
Representative models include the Rolex GMT-Master II and Breitling Chronoliner.
Watches equipped with GMT often have a GMT hand, which can indicate a second time zone. Furthermore, the GMT bezel can be used to display a third time zone.
Additionally, there are models like the Rolex Explorer II where this bezel is fixed, and the GMT hand indicates only a second time zone.
Summary
This time, I introduced some of the designs commonly found on sports model bezels among the many types available. There are many other types of bezels, so if you are interested, why not look for watches with particular bezels in mind?
I hope this article provides useful information and sparks some interest in luxury watches! Also, please feel free to ask any questions directly, and I will be sure to answer them thoroughly. We look forward to your visit and inquiries.
Stay tuned for the next installment! See you then!
