Dr. Ito's Complete Analysis of Mechanical Watches!! Vol.39 ~ Bracelet Link Structure ~ Characteristics of Each Manufacturer

Hello everyone!

This column, where I discuss mechanical watches from an engineer's perspective, is now in its 39th installment. This time, the topic is:

"Bracelet Link Structure: Characteristics of Each Manufacturer"

I will be discussing this theme.

When wearing a luxury watch, comfort is important. Even if you love your watch, if it "doesn't feel quite right on your wrist," it can dampen your spirits and reduce how often you wear it.

Furthermore, the comfort of the same watch can change with the seasons and your physical condition. Haven't you ever wanted to adjust it yourself rather than asking a specialist?

To do the work yourself, it's essential to understand the structure of your watch's links. So, this time, I will explain in detail the bracelet link structures of various luxury watch manufacturers.

Bracelet Structures of Each Manufacturer

1. Patek Philippe (Pin Type)

Patek Philippe bracelets, representing luxury watches, used to often feature screw-type links, but many models have now been changed to pin-type.

The pin type uses pins and tubes that "bite" into each other to secure the links, without using screws. For adjustment, a thin pin is tapped out with a hammer or pushed out with a specialized tool.

Since this pin-type adjustment method is also commonly used in relatively inexpensive watches, I personally had an impression of it being "cheap" compared to the screw type. Therefore, it was a shocking piece of news to me that Patek Philippe, recognized by all as the world's top watchmaker, changed its adjustment method from screw-type to pin-type.

However, I unfortunately couldn't confirm why they changed from screw-type to pin-type... If anyone knows the reason, please do tell me!

2. Audemars Piguet (Screw + Pin Type)

Audemars Piguet, with its flagship model "Royal Oak" showing no signs of declining popularity, is one of the world's top three luxury watch brands, known for the exquisite finishing of its exterior parts.

The bracelet adjustment for Audemars Piguet uses a "screw + pin" hybrid system. The links are supported by pins, and small screws are attached to the side of the links, acting as caps to prevent the pins from falling out.

The advantage of this method is that the risk of screws or pins loosening during use is very low.

The pins are responsible for connecting the links, and the screws are dedicated to supporting them, which effectively dissipates the rotational energy generated during wear.

A drawback is the risk of losing the very small screws during work. If you adjust it yourself, please be careful not to drop the screws.

3. Vacheron Constantin (Special Screw Type)

Vacheron Constantin's older models often featured a simple screw-type mechanism. However, the current Overseas model uses a "special link screw" designed to reduce the risk of loosening.

There is a spiral screw thread near the base of the screw, and the pin portion beyond that is connected but structured so that it does not rotate with the screw.

The reason for this structure is, like Audemars Piguet, to reduce the "risk of loosening during wear."

The concept is almost the same as Audemars Piguet, but from an engineer's perspective, the Vacheron Constantin method is better designed. Since the parts are connected, there is a lower chance of losing small screws during adjustment, which is impressive!

4. Rolex (Simple Screw Type)

Finally, everyone's favorite, Rolex.

True to its robust and solid image, Rolex's link adjustment has long been a "simple screw type." The thinking is that for durability, a simple structure is best, and the risk of loosening during wear can be avoided by applying threadlocker to the screw threads.

The basic structure of Rolex links has remained unchanged for decades, but it has been updated over time. For example, precious metal models now feature ceramic tubes to prevent wear. In terms of ease of adjustment, Rolex remains the best, then and now.

Summary

What do you think?

It's interesting how each manufacturer's characteristics and philosophy are reflected not only in the design but also in the detailed aspects like bracelet adjustment methods. I think it's wonderful to explore your favorite watches from such a nuanced perspective, based on these differences.

I hope this article has provided useful information for everyone and sparked even a little interest in luxury watches! Also, if you have any questions, please feel free to ask directly, and I will be happy to answer them thoroughly. We look forward to your visit and inquiries.

Stay tuned for the next installment! See you then!