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Good evening everyone!
This column talks about mechanical watches from an engineer's perspective. This is the 39th installment.
"Structure of bracelet links - characteristics of each manufacturer"
I will be talking about this topic here.
Comfort is an important factor when wearing a luxury watch. Even if you have a favorite watch, if you find that it just doesn't fit properly on your wrist, you might lose interest and end up wearing it less.
Also, even with the same watch, the comfort of wearing it can change depending on the season and your physical condition. At times like these, have you ever thought that you would rather try adjusting it yourself than ask a specialist store?
To do this yourself, it is essential to know the structure of the links of your watch. So, in this article, we will explain in detail the structure of bracelet links from each luxury watch manufacturer.
Bracelet structure of each manufacturer
1. Patek Philippe (Pin Type)
Patek Philippe, a leading luxury watch brand, used to have many screw-type bracelets, but now many models have been changed to pin-type bracelets.
The pin type does not use screws, but rather secures the link by the "bite" between the pin and the tube. To adjust, you can knock out the thin pin with a hammer or use a special tool to push it out.
This pin-type adjustment method is often used in relatively inexpensive watches, so I personally had the impression that it looked cheaper than the screw-type.However, I was personally shocked by the news that Patek Philippe, which is widely recognized as the world's best, had changed its adjustment method from the screw-type to the pin-type.
However, unfortunately, I was unable to find out why they changed from a screw type to a pin type. If anyone knows, please let me know!
2. Audemars Piguet (screw and pin type)
Audemars Piguet, whose flagship model, the Royal Oak, remains popular, is one of the world's three major luxury watch brands, particularly known for the beautiful finish of its exterior parts.
Audemars Piguet bracelet adjustments use a hybrid method of "screws and pins." The links are supported by pins, and short screws are attached to the sides of the links to act as caps to prevent the pins from falling out.
The advantage of this method is that there is very little risk of the screws or pins coming loose during use.
The pins are responsible for connecting the links together, while the screws are solely responsible for supporting them, allowing the rotational energy generated when the watch is worn to be effectively dissipated.
The weak point is that the screws used are very small, so there is a risk of losing them during the process. If you adjust it yourself, please be careful not to drop the screws.
3. Vacheron Constantin (Special Screw Type)
Vacheron Constantin's previous models often had the impression of using simple screw mechanisms, but the current Overseas uses a "special linkage" to reduce the risk of loosening.
There is a spiral groove near the bottom of the screw, and the pin part beyond that is connected but is designed so that it does not rotate with the screw.
The reason for this structure is to reduce the risk of the watch loosening when worn, just like Audemars Piguet.
The concept is almost the same as Audemars Piguet, but from an engineer's perspective, the Vacheron Constantin system has connected parts, so there is less chance of losing a small screw during adjustment, and I'm impressed by how well-designed it is!
4. Rolex (simple screw-down)
Lastly, everyone loves Rolex.
In keeping with their image of simplicity and robustness, Rolex links have always been adjusted using a "simple screw mechanism." From the perspective of durability, a simple structure is best, and the risk of loosening during wear can be avoided by applying a locking agent to the threads.
The basic structure of Rolex links has remained unchanged for decades, but precious metal models have been updated to suit the times, with ceramic tubes now being used to prevent wear. In terms of ease of adjustment, Rolex remains number one, both now and in the past.
summary
What did you think?
It's interesting to see how each manufacturer's characteristics and ideas are reflected not only in the design but also in the small details such as how the bracelet is adjusted. I think it's great, from an enthusiast's perspective, to search for a watch you like based on these differences.
We hope that this article has been useful to you and has sparked even a little interest in luxury watches! If you have any questions, please feel free to ask us directly and we will be happy to answer them. We look forward to your visit and inquiries.
Please look forward to the next one!
