Dr. Ito's in-depth analysis of mechanical watches!! Vol.36 - What are the shipping standards for luxury watches?

Hello everyone!

This column discusses mechanical watches from an engineer's perspective. For the 36th installment, we will be discussing the following topic:

"What are the shipping standards for luxury watches?"

Luxury watches range in price from hundreds of thousands to tens of millions of yen, with countless models available. Given their high cost, it's understandable that all customers expect them to be in perfect condition.

However, even with luxury goods, it's natural for there to be some scratches visible from new or variations in accuracy. In this article, we'll discuss the "shipping standards" for such luxury watches.

What are shipping standards?

"Shipping standards" generally refer to the quality and condition criteria that products must meet before being shipped. These are the rules and conditions that companies use to determine whether a product is suitable for delivery to the market or a customer.

The purposes of shipping standards include:

・Stabilizing quality: Maintaining a consistent quality and preventing defective products from entering the market.

・Improving customer satisfaction: Ensuring customers can purchase products with confidence.

・Reducing complaints: Preventing problems due to initial defects.

・Building trust: Protecting the credibility of the brand and company.

Shipping standards for luxury watches

Shipping standards in the luxury watch industry are set at very high levels for accuracy, appearance, function, and quality assurance. As these are expensive purchases, customer expectations are naturally high, and these standards are extremely important for protecting the brand's reliability and value.

Below, we will explain the key points:

・Appearance — The case, dial, hands, crystal, etc., must be free of scratches, dirt, misalignment, or unevenness. Uniformity of finishes, especially polished or brushed finishes, is highly valued.

・Accuracy (Rate) — The permissible range of advance or delay over a certain period. This varies depending on the brand and certification standards.

・Water resistance — Must meet standards after undergoing water resistance tests (e.g., pressure, vacuum) appropriate for the model.

・Power reserve — Must meet the specified duration for each model.

・Assembly and hand alignment accuracy — The position of the hands and the timing of the date change (e.g., midnight ± a few minutes) must be within standard.

It's clear that the standards required for luxury watches are significantly higher than general quality standards, and each brand employs various measures to meet customer expectations.

Examples of brand-specific characteristics

【Rolex】--After passing the COSC chronometer certification, in-house testing after case assembly ensures an accuracy standard of -2 to +2 seconds/day.

【Patek Philippe】--Adopts its own "Patek Philippe Seal" standard, with an accuracy standard of -3 to +2 seconds/day, stricter than COSC.

【A. Lange & Söhne】--After initial movement assembly, watches are completely disassembled and reassembled ("double assembly") before shipping, pursuing perfection in finish and accuracy.

The COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) accuracy standard of -4 to +6 seconds/day has long been the hallmark of high-precision mechanical watches. However, many brands now set their own, even stricter internal standards, further refining their precision.

Are luxury watches perfect?

It's only natural for watches from renowned luxury brands to be of high quality. And it's also natural for customers who purchase them to have high expectations.

However, no matter how high the quality, individual differences exist between products, and manufacturers establish their own shipping standards and acceptable ranges.

Even a brand new luxury watch might have a slight scuff on the dial or a tiny speck of dust visible under a loupe, or the gleaming case might have micro-scratches at a loupe level. These are not necessarily defects; most are items that the manufacturer has deemed acceptable for shipment. Worrying too much about tiny scratches invisible to the naked eye isn't good for your mental health, and I think it's better to view things with a more generous spirit.

Furthermore, regarding accuracy, it should be understood that the numbers in each brand's shipping standards are not guaranteed regardless of how or by whom the watch is used; they can vary depending on each user's usage conditions.

Summary

The shipping standards for luxury watches are very strictly managed based on the idea that "brand value equals quality." The higher the price of the watch, the stricter the shipping standards become, but please keep in mind that "perfection" does not exist, and there is always a certain "tolerance" allowed.

We hope this article has provided you with useful information and sparked your interest in luxury watches! If you have any questions, please feel free to ask us directly, and we will be happy to provide thorough answers. We look forward to your visit or inquiry.

Stay tuned for the next installment! See you then!