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What do you look for when choosing a mechanical watch?
Many people would probably answer "design," "functionality," and "asset value." Of course, appearance and resale value are very important points, but by increasing your knowledge and understanding of the historical background of brands and models, minor changes over the years, and other such things, you will come to love watches even more and enjoy the fun of choosing one. In this column, we will provide as much knowledge as possible about mechanical watches to both beginners and advanced users, and thoroughly dissect and explain them to serve as a reference for your watch selection.
This time, we will be focusing on the Rolex Submariner Ref. 1680, so be sure to read to the end.
First Generation Submariner Date Ref. 1680
Rolex's Submariner was born in 1953 and remains an iconic diver's watch that is immensely popular to this day. Among them, the Ref. 1680 was the first Submariner model with a date function and is one of the most highly regarded models in the vintage Rolex market.
The "Ref. 1680" was produced from 1969 to around 1980, and underwent many minor changes, such as the early "Red Sub" and the later "White Sub." The existence of subtle variations is also one of its great charms.
Basic specifications
Year of manufacture: 1969-1980 Case size: 40mm
Bezel: Rotating (aluminum insert)
Windshield: Plastic (Plexiglas)
Water resistance: 200M Movement: Cal.1570
①Dial
The dial of the "Ref.1680" is broadly divided into two types: "red sub" and "white sub".
◯ Red Sub: 1969-1975 The Red Sub is a watch with the word "SUBMARINER" printed in red, and was only used on the early "Ref. 1680". With only a limited number on the market, it is now a very rare model that is highly sought after by collectors.
Red subs are classified into six types (Mk1 to Mk6) based on the font and other details of the dial. Mk1 to Mk3 are meters first, and Mk4 to Mk6 are feet first.
・Mk1 (1969)
This is the rarest of the red Submariners, and of the six types, it has the smallest crown mark and Rolex logo, giving it a classic vintage design.
The easiest way to identify an Mk1 is to look at the "ft" in the waterproof rating. The "f" has a distinctive font with a rounded top and overlaps slightly with the "t", hence it is called a "long f". 
https://commit-watch.co.jp/blogs/kaneko/428
・Mk2 (around 1969-70)
The Rolex logo is the same as the Mk1, but it is slightly larger. The Submariner logo is also thicker, and the "f" for the waterproof rating is in a more angular font. The number "6" is an "open 6", and the dial is prone to discoloring to brown (tropical). 
https://commit-watch.co.jp/blogs/kaneko/1789
・Mk3 (around 1969-70)
The crown mark and Rolex logo of the Mk1 are slightly larger, and the Oyster notation is in a bold, powerful font. The waterproof notation is very similar to that of the Mk2, but the top of the "f" is slightly shorter and the whole letter seems thicker.
https://commit-watch.co.jp/blogs/kaneko/1689
・Mk4 (around 1970-74)
The crown mark is similar to Mk1-3, and the Rolex logo is in a vintage font. From Mk4 onwards, the water resistance notation is feet first. The horizontal bars of the "f" and "t" in the water resistance notation "ft" are not in a straight line. Since Mk5 and Mk6 are in a straight line, the feet first notation can be distinguished from Mk4.
https://commit-watch.co.jp/blogs/kaneko/1678
・Mk5 (around 1972-74)
The crown mark has a slightly sharper design, and the Rolex logo is in a sophisticated font. The horizontal lines of the "f" and "t" in the "ft" waterproof rating are in a straight line, and if the number "6" is "Open 6", then it is Mk5. 
https://www.commit-watch.co.jp/buyer/watches/mens/vintage_rolex/submariner-425900/
・Mk6 (around 1974-75)
The Rolex logo is in the same font as the Mk5, but the crown mark is closer to a modern design. The "6" in the waterproof rating of the Mk6 is changed to "Closed 6", so you can tell it's a Mk6 just by looking at the "Closed 6" part. 
https://www.udedokeitoushi.com/news/32916/
The appeal of the red sub
Six different dials have been found for the Red Sub during its production period of just six years. As a result, each one has a different look, which is what makes it so appealing to collectors.
◯ White Sub: 1975-1979
After 1975, production of the red Sub ended and a dial with a white "Submariner" marking was introduced. This model is commonly known as the "white Sub." Compared to the red Sub, it is more widely distributed on the market and easier to obtain, but the price of this model is also rising every year.
There are also multiple variations of the white sub dial (Mk1 to Mk3), each with subtle differences. Also, it is not clear which dial is attached depending on the year.
・Mk1 (manufactured by Lemlich)
Like the Red Sub Mk6, it has a modern crown design similar to the current model, and the key to distinguishing it is that the "L" in the Rolex logo and the center of the crown are aligned. The lettering on the 6 o'clock side is also very similar to the Red Sub (Mk6), but the Submariner logo is larger and printed with the same width as the water resistance notation. 
https://www.udedokeitoushi.com/news/25704/
・Mk2 (manufactured by Beyer)
The crown mark has a somewhat classical design, and the sharp design of the Rolex logo is a feature of the Mk2. The vertical bar of the "L" in the Rolex logo is slightly to the left of the crown mark. The dial is made by Bayer, the same as the red sub-Mk5, and the waterproof "6" is the only "open 6" among the original white sub-dials. Another feature is that, unlike the Mk1, the Submariner logo is slightly larger than the waterproof mark. 
https://commit-watch.co.jp/blogs/kaneko/1979
・Mk3 (manufactured by Lemlich)
The Mk3 is manufactured by Lemlich, just like the Mk1, so the designs are very similar. The crown mark and Rolex logo at 12 o'clock are the key to distinguishing between the two, with the "L" in the Rolex logo being slightly to the left of the center. The letters at 6 o'clock are also very similar, so it is difficult to tell them apart, but if there is a "C" printed almost directly below the "H" of the chronometer, it is a Mk1, and if it is shifted to the right, it is a Mk3. 
https://commit-watch.co.jp/products/5hn6vwed
・Service dial (tritium)
The tritium-spec service dial features a distinctive Rolex logo, with the horizontal serifs of the letters "L" and "E" extending diagonally. The 6 o'clock side features a narrow space between the bottom two lines of letters.
・Service dial (Luminova)
The Luminova service dial can be identified by the "SWISS" marking at 6 o'clock on the dial. This is, of course, because the dial does not use tritium as luminous material.
The appeal of the white sub
Although it is not as flashy as the Red Sub, its simple and highly visible design is appealing. It is also popular as an introduction to vintage Rolexes because it is more affordable than the Red Sub.
②Bezel
There are several types of bezel inserts for the "Ref. 1680," and pieces with rare inserts such as the "Long 5" are particularly valuable.
・Long 5 insert: circa 1969
The "Long 5" insert is rarely found on Mk3s. It features the number "5" in a vertical font, hence the name "Long 5". It features a thick font overall. 
https://commit-watch.co.jp/blogs/kaneko/1789
・Mk3 Insert: Around 1969-80 <br> Most models of red and white Subs are equipped with Mk3 inserts. Due to the long production period, there are differences in the thickness of the letters depending on the era (early, middle, late) (the later the letters are thinner). Among the early specifications, there is an individual called a kissing 4, where the "4" and "0" are touching. 
https://commit-watch.co.jp/blogs/kaneko/771
③Bracelet
The bracelets fitted to the "Ref. 1680" have changed over the years as follows:
・Rivet (7206/80): 1954-1969
・Coiled bracelet (9315/280 (380)): 1969-1975
・Hard Breath (93150/580): 1976-1980
Whether or not a bracelet's originality is preserved is also an important point in the vintage market.
summary
[Rolex] The Submariner "Ref. 1680" is the first model in the history of the Submariner to feature a date, and the difference between the "red sub" and the "white sub" in particular has been attracting attention among collectors. The number of units on the market is decreasing year by year, and the price is also on the rise, so we recommend that you get a good condition unit as soon as possible.
We will continue to research the "Ref. 1680" further and update the information, so please look forward to our next article!
See you later!
