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When choosing a mechanical watch, what do you look for?
Many of you would probably answer "design," "functionality," or "asset value." Of course, appearance and resale value are very important points, but by deepening your knowledge and understanding of the historical background of brands and models, and the minor changes made over the years, you'll surely come to love watches even more and enjoy the process of choosing one. In this column, we will thoroughly analyze and explain mechanical watches to provide both beginners and advanced enthusiasts with as much knowledge as possible, hoping it will aid you in your watch selection.
This time, we will focus on vintage, semi-vintage, and current models of the "Explorer," so please read until the end.
What is the Explorer?
Since its birth in 1953, the Explorer has continuously pursued visibility and robustness in harsh conditions, making it the ultimate watch for explorers, representing Rolex. Its simple three-hand design, which even omits a calendar, embodies "ultimate universality" that transcends trends, earning it support from watch enthusiasts worldwide across generations.
Vintage
① 'Explorer I' "Ref.1016" 1.3 million serial Mirror Dial
◇Watch Features & Highlights◇
This model features a "mirror dial (gilt dial)" seen in the early 1960s. The jet-black, glossy, mirrored dial, combined with gold lettering and aged tritium indices, exudes an overwhelming charm and sophistication not found in current models. Although from a different year, the charming coiled Jubilee bracelet is also a highlight.
■Product page here
👉https://commit-watch.co.jp/products/o7kscfes
② 'Explorer I' "Ref.1016" 5.1 million serial Matte Dial Frog Foot
◇Watch Features & Highlights◇
Among the long-selling "Ref.1016" models, this is a matte dial example from the late 1960s to early 1970s, characterized by the "frog foot" crown mark. The endearing frog-foot-like crown mark is highly valued among collectors. The practical matte texture of the dial, along with the nicely aged tritium lume, creates a vintage "patina."
■Product page here
👉https://commit-watch.co.jp/products/uykq2jbp
Semi-Vintage
③ 'Explorer I' "Ref.14270" E serial Blackout
◇Watch Features & Highlights◇
This is the rare "Blackout" specification found in the very first production batches (E and X serials) around 1990. The "3, 6, 9" indices, which usually have white lines, are instead finished with black lines. This dial, which highlights the texture of the silver lettering, transforms the "Ref.14270" into a modern and cool impression, making it one of the highly sought-after pieces in the semi-vintage market.
■Product page here
👉https://commit-watch.co.jp/products/38hoxgr7
④ 'Explorer I' "Ref.14270" T serial
◇Watch Features & Highlights◇
This piece from around 1996 (T serial) features a sapphire crystal and uses tritium for its luminous material. Equipped with the high-precision "Cal.3000" movement, it's a practical watch that also offers a sense of refined taste. It's highly recommended as an entry point into semi-vintage watches.
■Product page here
👉https://commit-watch.co.jp/products/yhy82ixq
Current Models
⑤ 'Explorer 36' "Ref.124270"
◇Watch Features & Highlights◇
This current model, introduced in 2021, returns to the traditional 36mm case. Equipped with the latest generation "Cal.3230," it boasts the strongest performance to date, including a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. The dial features a deeper luster, and the blue luminescence of the Chromalight indices enhances its modern luxury feel.
■Product page here
👉https://commit-watch.co.jp/products/2bjrby5d
⑥ 'Explorer 36' "Ref.124273"
◇Watch Features & Highlights◇
This is the first ever two-tone model (Yellow Rolesor) of the "Explorer," combining stainless steel and 18K yellow gold. This model, which had a stoic image as a "chunk of iron," now has added glamor and luxury. While originating as an adventurous tool, it's an entirely new option that also looks great in urban dress settings.
■Product page here
👉https://commit-watch.co.jp/products/57zzmsyo
⑦ 'Explorer 40' "Ref.224270"
◇Watch Features & Highlights◇
This is a new generation model with a 40mm case, announced in 2023. For those who find 36mm a bit small, this size has been eagerly awaited. It's not merely an upsizing; the lug width and bracelet balance have been meticulously calculated to achieve both presence on the wrist and exceptional wearing comfort. It's the definitive modern tool watch, highly legible and robust enough for daily wear.
■Product page here
👉https://commit-watch.co.jp/products/to85f5na
Summary
What did you think?
The "Explorer," embodying "ultimate simplicity," maintains its timeless appeal regardless of the era of the model you choose.
From the vintage models exuding overwhelming individuality, to semi-vintage pieces boasting rare details, and the current models with top-tier specifications. With which era's companion would you like to embark on the adventure of life?
This time, we didn't introduce "Ref.114270" and "Ref.214270," but these two are also appealing models, so if you're looking for an "Explorer," please consider them as well.
We hope to assist you in finding your perfect watch.
