Dr. Ito's thorough analysis of mechanical watches!! Vol.20 ~ Dial finishing and decoration ~

Good evening, everyone!

This column discusses mechanical watches from an engineer's perspective. For its 20th installment, we will be discussing:

"Dial finishes and decoration"

I will be discussing this topic.

There are many different types of luxury watch dials. In recent years, dials made from natural materials with unique individual characteristics have become popular, but even "normal dials," which are standard specification dials, have multiple finishing methods, each gaining popularity.

So, this time, I would like to focus on the "differences in dial finishes and decorations" and explain them. Please read to the end!

Sunray finish

The sunray finish takes its name from "sunlight" and refers to a decoration where lines extend radially from the center of the dial.

The intricate carving on the dial changes its reflection of light depending on the viewing angle, creating beautiful radial lines as if sunlight is radiating from the central axis (sun) to the periphery (universe).

The beautiful sunray finish is used in a wide range of models and dial colors, from dress watches to sports watches.

Lacquer finish

A lacquer finish refers to a decoration achieved by repeatedly spraying thin, even coats of clear or colored paint onto the metal base of the dial and drying it.

The paint gains hardness and enhanced durability as the solvent evaporates. Another characteristic is that it can be polished to a glossy finish similar to enamel.The number of coats varies depending on the watch, but typically, 5 to 6 coats are applied, using clear and colored paints as appropriate for the base material, painting, and improving durability. 

Due to the ability to enjoy colorful and complex hues, models featuring lacquer dials are all highly popular.

A prime example of this is the colorful dial series of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual, led by the turquoise dial. With its vibrant colors and wide variety, many people may find it difficult to choose.

In addition, the "Stella dial," which can be considered the "originator" of color dials, also features a lacquer finish.

Matte finish

"Matte finish" (or sandblasted finish) refers to a dial with a rough, textured surface that prevents light reflection.

These dials are often used in models where instantaneous legibility is crucial, such as pilot watches and sports watches, because they enhance visibility by reducing light reflection. 

The subdued matte texture pairs well with monochrome coordinates, so it will undoubtedly give a sophisticated and chic impression even when worn in the city.

Guilloché engraving

Guilloché engraving is a technique used for watch dials and other decorations, invented in the 18th century by Abraham-Louis Breguet. This technique uses a special engine-turning machine to create geometric and precise patterns, such as uniform lines, wavy patterns, or radial patterns, on the surface of the dial.

Like the matte finish, guilloché engraving has the technically superior advantage of reducing light reflection and enhancing legibility. This practical aspect, in addition to its aesthetic beauty, is why it is used on many dials.

There are various types of guilloché engraving, so I would like to introduce them in more detail next time.

Summary

How was it?

The finish of the dial has a significant impact on determining the impression of a watch.

Each one features a beautiful and delicate finish, and each has its own charm. Choosing a dial that suits one's personal preferences from among them is one of the great pleasures, isn't it?

I hope this article has provided useful information for everyone and sparked even a little interest in luxury watches! Also, if you have any questions, please feel free to ask us directly, and we will answer them thoroughly. We look forward to your visit and inquiries.

Look forward to the next one! See you then!