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What do you look for when choosing a mechanical watch?
Many people would probably answer "design," "functionality," and "asset value." Of course, appearance and resale value are very important points, but by increasing your knowledge and understanding of the historical background of brands and models, minor changes over the years, and other such things, you will come to love watches even more and enjoy the fun of choosing one. In this column, we will provide as much knowledge as possible about mechanical watches to both beginners and advanced users, and thoroughly dissect and explain them in detail to serve as a reference for your watch selection.
This time, we will be focusing on the Rolex Submariner Ref. 16610, so be sure to read to the end.
Third Generation Submariner Date Ref.16610
The Submariner Date is an extremely popular Rolex diver's watch.
Among them, the fourth generation, Ref. 16610, boasts a long production period and can be said to be the model that laid the foundation for the modern Submariner.
The "Ref.16610" is the third generation Submariner Date, produced from 1989 (R number) to around 2010 (random number). It took over from the previous model "Ref.168000" and is the first Submariner to be equipped with the "Cal.3135".
It remains highly popular today as a model that combines modern functionality with the vintage feel that only a five-digit reference can offer. 
https://commit-watch.co.jp/blogs/kaneko/509?srsltid=AfmBOopiE9-4S6hFmmZYP0l5SCZGEW32laRXk1n9QnMykN5oCixTJAWu
Basic specifications and manufacturing year: 1989 (R number) to around 2010 (random number)
・Case: 40mm (904L stainless steel)
・Bezel: Unidirectional (aluminum insert)
Windshield: Sapphire crystal Waterproof: 300m waterproof Bracelet: Hard bracelet: 93150/501B (1988-2012) 93250 (1999-2012)
Movement: Cal.3135
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations
①Dial
The dials of the "Ref. 16610" have different markings and luminous paint depending on the production period, and can be broadly classified into three types.
① SWISS-T＜25 (around 1989-1997)
The watches made between 1989 and 1997 have the inscription "SWISS-T＜25" at the 6 o'clock position on the dial. This indicates that tritium luminous material is used. Some watches show a patina effect as the luminous material on the index burns over time, allowing you to enjoy the changes that occur over time. 
https://commit-watch.co.jp/en/blogs/kaneko/1844
Characteristics of tritium luminous paint : Tritium is a self-luminous luminous paint that glows strongly immediately after application, but has a half-life of about 12 years, and most pieces no longer glow. The color of the luminous parts of tritium dials changes over time, and those with an evenly burnt patina are traded at particularly high prices.
Additionally, around 1997 (T to U series), there was a model known as the "Trichinova," which had the same dial markings but had only the luminous material changed to Luminova.
◯ Tip dot
A rare special type of watch from around the 1990s is the "dot tip." This type of watch has the luminous seconds hand located closer to the tip, and when it passes through the triangle luminous piece at the 12 o'clock position or the bar index luminous piece at the 6 and 9 o'clock positions, a dot-shaped luminous piece overlaps the luminous piece. Also, while normal hands get thinner as they approach the tip, dot-tip hands are uniform in thickness all the way to the tip. 
https://commit-watch.co.jp/blogs/kaneko/509?srsltid=AfmBOopiE9-4S6hFmmZYP0l5SCZGEW32laRXk1n9QnMykN5oCixTJAWu
② SWISS notation (around 1998-1999)
The watches manufactured between 1998 (U series) and 1999 (A series) were marked "SWISS" and the luminous paint was changed to Luminova. This "Only Swiss" marking was only used for a short period of about one year, so the number of production was small, and future developments will be interesting to watch.
◯Characteristics of Luminova luminous paint Luminova is a phosphorescent type luminous paint developed by the Japanese company Nemoto Specialty Chemical Co., Ltd. It stores light and emits light in the dark. Unlike tritium, it glows semi-permanently, making it highly practical.
③ SWISS MADE notation (1999-2010)
After 1999 (A-random numbers), the same "SWISS MADE" marking as current Rolexes was adopted. This indicates that the watch continues to use Luminova luminous material, and has been adopted by subsequent Submariner Date models. The design and luminous performance remain unchanged, only the marking is different. 
https://commit-watch.co.jp/blogs/kaneko/258?srsltid=AfmBOor9bL8xiFDs_UsNmIyhi28aFE5pMWaCui8klAcHtXYyO6cJHife
〇Crown watermark
Around 2003, a watermark with a crown mark was adopted at the 6 o'clock position on the sapphire crystal. This is made by special laser processing and has been adopted on models other than the Submariner to prevent counterfeiting. It was adopted on the Submariner Date around the same time that the side holes on the case were eliminated.
〇 Side hole The hole in the middle case for the spring bar that connects the case to the bracelet (passing through the rough part of the middle case) was used from the start of production until around 2003 (up to the latter half of the Y series). From around the latter half of 2003, the side hole was removed and the specifications were changed to the same as the current model. 
https://commit-watch.co.jp/blogs/kaneko/258?srsltid=AfmBOor9bL8xiFDs_UsNmIyhi28aFE5pMWaCui8klAcHtXYyO6cJHife
Roulette engraving
From around 2007, roulette engraving was adopted on the inside side of the case. This was done to prevent counterfeiting and guarantee authenticity, and the "crown mark", "ROLEX", and serial number are engraved at the 6 o'clock position. It was first adopted in 2004, but the "Ref. 16610" was adopted from around 2007. 
https://commit-watch.co.jp/products/c9ljyupc
②Bezel
The "Ref.16610" uses a unidirectional rotating bezel, just like the previous model "Ref.168000". The bezel is made of an aluminum insert, and some pieces show scratches and fading due to aging (commonly known as "bezel burn") after years of use. In particular, bezels that have burned blue-gray tend to be highly valued in the market.
③ Movement
The "Ref.16610" is equipped with Rolex's famous "Cal.3135" movement, a long-selling movement released in 1988. It is a movement with excellent precision, durability, and maintainability.
Features of Cal.3135:・Maintains high accuracy at 28,800 vibrations per hour ・Improved shock resistance with twin bridge balance cock ・Improved durability with Teflon-coated escapement ・Improved magnetic resistance with the adoption of a blue Parachrom hairspring (since the late 2000s)
④ Bracelet
The bracelet used for the "Ref. 16610" was changed from the 93150 (early model: up to around 2000) to the 93250 (late model: from around 2000). Both are robust hard bracelets, but the 93250 has an integrated flash fit, improving durability and comfort. The bracelet buckle also comes standard with a diver's extension, allowing it to be worn over a diving suit. This also saw a change in specifications from the 93150 (early model) to the 93250 (late model).
summary
The "Ref. 16610" is a very popular model today, combining the appeal of a classic five-digit reference with modern practicality. In particular, tritium luminous models have become increasingly valuable as collector's items, and prices are also on the rise. (As of February 2025, up to 1 million yen)
If you are looking for practicality, we recommend the later model with Luminova luminescence, and if you want to enjoy a vintage feel, we recommend the one with tritium luminescence.
The five-digit reference Submariner is a watch that is full of charm not found in current Rolexes.
If you find one that catches your eye, why not check its condition carefully and choose the "Ref. 16610" that's right for you?
