Watch Anatomy Book Vol. 43: A Thorough Explanation of the Second-Generation GMT-Master Ref. 1675/3 and Ref. 1675/8!

What do you look for when choosing a mechanical watch?

Many people would probably answer "design," "functionality," and "asset value." Of course, appearance and resale value are very important points, but by increasing your knowledge and understanding of the historical background of brands and models, minor changes over the years, and other factors, you will likely come to love watches even more and enjoy the fun of choosing one. In this column, we will provide as much information as possible about mechanical watches to both beginners and advanced watchers, and will provide a thorough analysis and explanation to help you choose a watch.

This time, we will be focusing on the Rolex GMT-Master Ref. 1675/3 and Ref. 1675/8, so be sure to read to the end.

Second-generation GMT-Master Ref. 1675/3 and Ref. 1675/8

From the late 1960s to the 1970s, Rolex developed the GMT-Master in solid gold and Rolesor versions, the Ref. 1675/8 and Ref. 1675/3, respectively.

Like the stainless steel model "Ref. 1675," it shares the same basic design and size, but is clearly differentiated in terms of material, dial color, index specifications, and bezel color scheme, resulting in a finish that makes the most of the luxurious appeal of gold.

The unique brown dial and bezel color can be said to be a symbol of "luxury GMT" at Rolex at the time.

Basic specifications

[Ref.1675/8]
・Production period: circa 1959 to circa 1979 ・Case: 40mm
Bezel: Bidirectional rotating Crystal: Plastic Water resistance: 50m
Movement: Cal.1560 / Cal.1570

[Ref.1675/3]
-Production period: late 1960s to around 1979 -Case: 40mm
Bezel: Bidirectional rotating Crystal: Plastic Water resistance: 50m
Movement: Cal.1570

Dial and luminous

Color variations

Both the "Ref. 1675/8" and "Ref. 1675/3" are available in two colors: black and brown. The brown, in particular, has a softness and luster characteristic of vintage timepieces, exuding a unique charm not seen in later Rolex models. The brown dial is also available with a sunray finish.

Index and typeface

- The luminous upright (barnacle dial) index is called a nipple dial overseas.
As is typical of a solid gold model, the indexes and logo are bordered in gold.

luminous paint

- Tritium was used as the luminous material at the time, and one of the joys of vintage watches is being able to see the fading and discoloration that occurs over time.

needle

- Mercedes needles are basically used.
- The initial version of the "Ref. 1675/8" had a small gold alpha hand (arrow-shaped) as its GMT hand, while later models changed to a more conventional design.

bezel

Reference 1675/8 (18KYG)

- Solid black or brown aluminum bezel insert.
- The font of the numbers is classic, and the gold lettering stands out.
- The uniformity with the case gives it an extremely luxurious impression.

Ref.1675/3 (combination)

-Available in black or brown and gold bezel.
- When combined with a brown dial, the classic "brown and gold" color scheme of vintage Rolex stands out.

Crown guard and case

Unlike the stainless steel model, the early "Ref. 1675/8" does not have a crown guard.
- From the later models, a crown guard will be added, just like the stainless steel model.

bracelet

Reference 1675/8

Rivet: 7206/8 (80, 40, 45B)
Jubilee (single): 6311/8 (54)
Jubilee (Concealed): 8386/8 (47)

- The link structure is hollow, which gives it a lightweight feel, but it tends to stretch over time.

Reference 1675/3

Rolled Oyster: 7836/3 (280)
Oyster (single): 78363 (480)
Entangled Jubilee: 6251/3H (55)
Jubilee (Single) 62523H (450)

- The central link is made of yellow gold and the outer link is stainless steel Rolesor, giving it a sporty yet luxurious feel.

Movement

- "Ref.1675/8" is equipped with Cal.1560 or Cal.1570.
・"Ref.1675/3" is equipped with Cal.1570.
- "Cal.1570" is an evolved version that adds a hack function (second hand stop).
・Vibration frequency: 18,000 vibrations/hour "Cal.1560", 19,800 vibrations/hour "Cal.1570"
Power reserve: Approximately 48 hours. This is a renowned watch that excels in durability and reliability.

summary

The "Ref. 1675/8" and "Ref. 1675/3" are vintage models that occupy a particularly luxurious position among the "GMT-Master" models. Their appeal lies in the beautiful colors and details that are not found in modern watches, such as the brown dial and gold hands, indexes, and bezel.

Furthermore, it is extremely rare for a vintage Rolex from that time, and original condition or complete sets have extremely high collectible value.

This is a masterpiece that represents vintage Rolex, combining the elegance of a gold model with the functional beauty of a GMT Master.

If you are interested in any of the watches, please take this opportunity to register your interest (request for restock).