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Hello everyone!
This column discusses mechanical watches from an engineer's perspective. For the seventh installment, we will be talking about
"Bracelet Size and Balance"
as our theme.
There are various types of bracelets, each with unique designs from different manufacturers. This time, we will focus on Rolex's Oyster bracelet, a representative example, to discuss the optimal bracelet size and the balance between the 6 o'clock and 12 o'clock sides. Please read on to the end!
Bracelet Size Adjustment
1. What is the appropriate amount of slack?
For those buying a luxury watch for the first time, there must be many concerns, especially regarding how much slack is best for your wrist size. We often receive questions about bracelet size at our store, and
As shown in the picture, it is generally said that an appropriate size is "actual wrist circumference + 5mm." By the way, for watches purchased by customers through our online store, we adjust the wrist circumference based on this "+5mm," which typically leaves a gap where about one pinky finger can fit. However, since individual preferences for fit vary, you can fine-tune this based on whether you prefer a snugger or looser fit.
A word of caution: if there is too much slack around your wrist, the watch will move back and forth and side to side when worn, leading to increased wear on the bracelet. Bracelets for 4- and 5-digit reference number Rolex models, in particular, are more prone to wear (stretching) compared to current models, so we do not recommend wearing them with too much slack. Please be very careful.
2. Bracelet Balance
Even with the same size (inner circumference), the fit of a bracelet can vary significantly depending on the balance of length between the 6 o'clock and 12 o'clock sides.
The optimal balance is said to be when the watch case and the clasp plate are parallel. Also, if one side needs to be shorter, shortening the 6 o'clock side results in a better fit. This is because human wrists are oval-shaped, and if the 6 o'clock side is too long, the watch case tends to turn outwards on the wrist when checking the time.
However, due to their construction, Oyster bracelets for 4- and 5-digit reference numbers cannot have fewer than five links on the 6 o'clock side. As a result, many people with slender wrists (under 17cm circumference) are forced to wear them with a long 6 o'clock side.
A "trick" to solve this is to "attach the 6 o'clock and 12 o'clock sides of the bracelet in reverse." If the bracelet is attached in reverse, the balance between 6 o'clock and 12 o'clock also reverses, improving the wearing comfort. Naturally, the direction of clasp opening and closing will also be reversed, so some getting used to it for putting it on and taking it off will be necessary. However, if you are bothered by the watch turning outwards on your wrist, it might be worth trying this once.
Oyster bracelets from 6-digit reference numbers onwards have more removable links, allowing for proper balance adjustment even for women and those with slender wrists. Additionally, functions like Easylink and Glidelock have been added, which allow for one-touch bracelet size adjustment, so I believe optimal wearing comfort can be achieved for a wide range of wrist sizes.
Summary
How was it?
While wrist preferences vary from person to person due to size and wrist shape, I believe that the attachment you feel towards your watch greatly changes depending on whether you achieve the optimal fit. I hope this article helps you reconfirm the size and balance of your watch.
I would be delighted if this article proves useful to you and sparks even a little interest in luxury watches! Also, please feel free to ask any questions directly, and we look forward to your visit and inquiries.
Stay tuned for the next installment! See you then!
