Dr. Ito's thorough analysis of mechanical watches!! Vol.7 ~ Bracelet size and balance

Good evening everyone!

This column talks about mechanical watches from an engineer's point of view. This is the seventh installment.

"About the size and balance of the bracelet"

I will be talking about this topic.

There are many different bracelets made by different manufacturers, but today I would like to talk about the optimal bracelet size and the balance between the 6 o'clock and 12 o'clock sides, using the well-known Rolex Oyster bracelet as an example. Please read to the end!

Bracelet size adjustment

1. What is the appropriate amount of leeway?

How much room should you leave in your wrist compared to your actual wrist size? People who are buying a luxury watch for the first time are probably very worried about this. We often get questions about bracelet sizes in stores, but

As shown in the photo, it is generally said that the appropriate size is about "actual wrist size + 5mm". Incidentally, watches purchased from our store through mail order are adjusted based on this "+5mm" wrist size, so the idea is that there is roughly enough space for one pinky finger to fit in. However, of course, everyone has different preferences for fit, so we recommend that you use this as a base and make fine adjustments depending on whether you like a tight fit or a loose fit.

Please note that if the size is too loose around your wrist, the watch will move back and forth and side to side when you wear it, which will cause the bracelet to wear down. Rolex bracelets with 4-digit and 5-digit part numbers in particular are more prone to wear (stretching) than current models, so we do not recommend wearing a size that is too loose. Please be careful.

2. Balance of the bracelet

The fit of a bracelet can vary greatly depending on the balance of the length between the 6 o'clock and 12 o'clock sides, even if the size (inner diameter) is the same.

The optimal balance is said to be when the watch body and the clasp plate are parallel. Also, if one side is shorter due to size, shortening the 6 o'clock side will provide a better fit. This is because the human wrist is oval, so if the link on the 6 o'clock side is long, the watch body will face outward when checking the time.

However, due to the structure of the Oyster bracelet for 4- and 5-digit model numbers, the number of links on the 6 o'clock side cannot be made shorter than 5. Therefore, many people with thin arms (wrist circumference of 17 cm or less) are forced to wear the watch with the 6 o'clock side longer.

A "trick" to solve this problem is to "attach the bracelet with the 6 o'clock and 12 o'clock positions facing backwards." When you attach the bracelet backwards, the balance between 6 o'clock and 12 o'clock is also reversed, improving the fit. Naturally, the clasp opening and closing direction is also reversed, so it takes some getting used to when putting it on and taking it off, but if you are really bothered by the watch facing outward on your wrist, it's worth a try.

Oyster bracelets with six-digit model numbers or higher have an increased number of removable links so that women and people with thin arms can adjust the bracelet to the appropriate balance. In addition, features such as Easylink and Glidelock have been added, which allow you to change the bracelet size with one touch, so we think that people with a wide range of wrist sizes can find the perfect fit.

summary

What did you think.

Preferences for wrist size and wrist shape vary from person to person, but the optimal fit can make a big difference in how much you like your watch. We hope you will use this article as a reference to reconfirm the size and balance of your watch.

We hope that this article has been useful to you and has piqued your interest in luxury watches! If you have any questions, please feel free to ask us directly, and we look forward to hearing from you!

Look forward to the next one! See you next time!