Commit TV Yagi Column ~《What are you too afraid to ask now? Series Vol.14》【Introduction to luxury watches】What is a "perpetual calendar"? Explaining the characteristics of perpetual calendars and the differences with annual calendars~

Good evening everyone!

This week, we have a new series, In this new project, we will explain the basics of luxury watches in an easy-to-understand way, for those who are not very familiar with luxury watches and those who want to learn more about them.

This is the 14th time

[ Introduction to Luxury Watches ]: Perpetual Calendar

The "perpetual calendar" is a complex mechanism also known as the "perpetual calendar." It is said to be one of the "three major complex mechanisms" among many mechanisms, and requires advanced technology to manufacture. Therefore, the brands that handle it are top-notch, and the price can exceed 10 million yen. In this article, we will explain the characteristics of the "perpetual calendar" and the difference between it and the "annual calendar."

What is a perpetual calendar?

Perpetual calendar = Perpetual calendar

A "perpetual calendar" is a mechanism that automatically performs all of the work of adjusting the date, which is necessary for mechanical watches. With a normal watch, the calendar must be corrected manually for months that have only 30 days. However, a "perpetual calendar" not only performs these adjustments, but also adjusts for leap years, which occur once every four years. It may seem simple when written down, but creating this with a mechanical movement requires highly advanced technology.

By the way, as the name "permanent" suggests, it is thought that there will never be a need for adjustment, but in reality, most current models are said to need adjustment on February 28 , 2100 .

The History of the Perpetual Calendar

The creator of the perpetual calendar was Abraham-Louis Breguet, a genius watchmaker who is said to have invented the prototype of the perpetual calendar in 1795. Later, in 1889, Patek Philippe obtained a patent for the perpetual calendar mechanism, and in 1985 , IWC added a four-digit year display to the perpetual calendar mechanism with the Da Vinci, which became a hot topic at the time.

One of the three great complex mechanisms

The "perpetual calendar" is called one of the "three great complicated mechanisms" because of its complexity. The other "three great complicated mechanisms" are the "minute repeater" and the "tourbillon." The "minute repeater" is a function that tells the time by ringing a gong, and was developed in an era when it was impossible to check the time in the dark.

The "Tourbillon" is a mechanism that stabilizes the deviation in accuracy caused by the difference in posture, such as the direction or position of the watch. By placing the parts that control the accuracy of the watch in a special cage and rotating it, gravity is averaged out and accuracy is improved.

Difference from the "Annual Calendar"

A mechanism similar to the "perpetual calendar" is the "annual calendar," which I talked about last time.

While the "perpetual calendar" only needs to be adjusted once every 100 years, the "annual calendar" needs to be adjusted once a year. The "annual calendar" developed by Patek Philippe in 1996 was born as a more affordable mechanism than the highly advanced "perpetual calendar," and is now available in the lineup of many brands.

Representative models of the "perpetual calendar"

From here on, we will introduce some representative models of perpetual calendars.

[Patek Philippe]
"Perpetual Calendar"
"Ref.5327G-001"

This watch is a successor to the famous " Ref.3940 " which is a masterpiece of the "perpetual calendar". It incorporates traditional designs such as the "Calatrava" case and Breguet numerals, giving it a modern finish. The movement is " Cal.240Q" . It is made up of 275 parts and is designed to be only 3.88mm thin. All engraving and finishing are done by hand, so the movement alone has artistic beauty.

[Audemars Piguet]
"Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar"
"Ref.26574ST.OO.1220ST.02"

In 1875, Audemars Piguet produced its first perpetual calendar. 140 years have passed since then, and the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar was finally released in 2015. This top-of-the-line perpetual calendar watch is a masterpiece of Audemars Piguet, the Royal Oak Extra-Thin, with a blue Grand Tapisserie dial and a well-balanced arrangement of the perpetual calendar and moon phase, creating a beautifully designed watch.

[Breguet]
"Classic Perpetual Calendar"
"Ref.5327BR/1E/9V6"

The "Classic Perpetual Calendar" is a culmination of Breguet's technology, known as one of the world's top five watches. This masterpiece combines tradition and art, and the hand-embossed dial features a perpetual calendar, moon phase, power reserve indicator, day-date, month, and leap year display, making it an ultra-complex model.

summary

We have explained the characteristics of a perpetual calendar and how it differs from an annual calendar. What do you think?

I hope you now understand that the "perpetual calendar" is a historic mechanism that embodies the culmination of the techniques of watchmakers around the world and has been passed down through the generations. The way it is displayed and designed varies depending on the brand, so please try to find a watch that suits your taste.

Once again, I hope that this article will pique your interest in luxury watches!

see you!