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What do you look for when choosing a mechanical watch?
Most people would probably answer "design" or "asset value." Of course, appearance and value are very important points, so it's inevitable, but if you add in so-called "knowledge" such as the historical background of the brand or model, the technical elements of each era, and the evolutionary process, you'll probably like watches more and your perspective will change.
So, in this column, I will provide as much knowledge as possible about mechanical watches to everyone, regardless of whether they are a beginner or an advanced user, and will provide a thorough dissection and explanation to help you choose a watch.
This time, we will focus on the Rolex Submariner (Ref. 5513). Please read to the end.
[Rolex][Rolex] It has been about 70 years since the Submariner was born in 1953. The "Ref. 5513" is a long-selling model that was produced for about 30 years throughout its long history, and is a popular model as an entry-level model for [vintage Rolex] and also as a collector's item.
However, even among watch professionals, few people understand the differences in the fine details that are part of its charm, and there are even more things that the general public does not know. Let's read this article and deepen our knowledge of the "Ref. 5513" together.
4th Generation Ref.5513 ~Basic Specifications~
Year of manufacture: 1963-1990 Case: 40mm
Bezel: Rotating (aluminum insert)
Windshield: Plastic Waterproof: 200M waterproof Bracelet:
・Rivet (7206/80) Period: 1954-1968 ・Winding bracelet (9315/280 (380)) Period: 1969-1976 ・Hard bracelet (93150/580) Period: 1976-1990 Movement: Cal.1530/Cal.1520
About dial
The dial of the "Ref. 5513" comes in three types: mirror (gilt), matte, and lacquer, and these are further subdivided.
◯ Mirror (gilt) dial (1963)
・Minute Circle (Mirror): circa 1963
The minute circle refers to a dial that has a circle along the scale on the outer edge of the dial, and can be seen on early models produced in 1963.
Additionally, the minute circle is a feature not found in the matte dials and lacquer dials introduced later, so the minute circle is generally considered to be the same as a mirror dial.
As this is the earliest model of "Ref. 5513," there are very few of them on the market.
・Glass dial: circa 1964-67
This refers to the unique, mirror-like, glossy dial that can also be found on vintage Rolexes other than the Submariner, and is highly rare.
The mirror dial has lettering on the dial (logo, waterproofing, etc.
Another feature is that the dial color (including the model name) is painted gold. There are also dials with a brown color due to aging, commonly known as "tropical dials," and dials with a line under the model name, commonly known as "underlines," but these are rare and rarely seen.
*The underline is a feature seen in early units that adopted tritium, and is said to be included to indicate that the radioactive material contained in tritium is below the specified level.
*Matte dial (1967-84)
・Meter First: 1967-70
This watch can be found on models that have switched from a mirrored dial to a matte dial. The water resistance reading at the 6 o'clock position on the dial reads "200m=660ft" (the meters come first), with the model name "SUBMARINER" written underneath.
Incidentally, the mirror dial is also written with the meter first, but because of the strong individuality of the "mirror dial", the early examples with this matte dial are called "meter first".
・Feet First/Lower Sub (MK1 Dial): 1970-78
The opposite of the meter-first system mentioned above, feet-first is written as "660ft=200m", and since the "SUBMARINER" notation is at the bottom, it is also known as the "lower sub". Furthermore, this feet-first MK1 dial is further subdivided into three types.
1. Singer: 1970-75
In proportion to the length of time it was produced, Singer dials are the most widely distributed.
A notable feature of this watch is that the space between the words "OYSTER" and "PARPETUAL" in the "OYSTER PARPETUAL" inscription at the 12 o'clock position is slightly wide, and the horizontal lines in the feet (ft) inscription are not in the same line.
② Stern: 1975-77
This dial is also used on the Comex exclusive model "Ref. 5514", and there are very few in circulation.
The lettering is thicker than Singer's, and the "ROLEX" marking is slightly larger. The horizontal bars of the feet (ft) are all in the same straight line, and the "SUBMARINER" logo is in a bold serif font, which is another distinctive feature.
③ Lemlich: 1977-78
This model features a large luminous dot and a sharp crown mark.
*All products manufactured by Lemmich after this model have maxi dials.
The font for feet (ft) is thin, the bars are aligned in a straight line, and the zeros in "200m" and "660ft" are nearly circular.
・MK2 Dial: 1978-81
This model is characterized by its slim-looking crown mark and the words "OYSTER PARPETUAL" written in a serif-free font.
From the MK2 model, the model logo "SUBMARINER" is displayed above the waterproof rating. In addition, all letters are in a Gothic font without serifs.
・MK3 Dial: 1978-81
This dial is commonly called a "lollipop dial" because the luminous index circles and the minute bars are connected to resemble a lollipop. Characteristic features include the thinly printed ROLEX logo and a large crown mark.
In addition, the water resistance notation at the 6 o'clock position (660ft=200m) has a pop look, and the horizontal bars of the feet (ft) are not in the same line, which is another way to tell the watch apart.
・MK4 Dial: 1979-82
Like the current model, it features a sophisticated crown mark, a sharp and distinct "ROLEX" logo, and "OYSTER PARPETUAL" inscription with serifs.
By the way, it is similar to MK2, but in this version there are lines in all the letters, so if you don't know what they are, you can use this as a reference.
・MK5 Dial: 1982-84
Characterized by letters emphasized in bold font overall, this is the final model with a matte dial.
Matte dials have been manufactured for a long time, so there seems to be a lot of stock, but the number of original pieces in good condition is decreasing year by year. The market price is in the 1 million to 3 million yen range. (As of January 2025)
Lacquer dial (1984-90)
Around 1984, the matte dial was changed to a lacquer finish that gives off a luxurious and distinctive shine, and the luminous indexes were given metal frames, giving the watch an overall more luxurious feel.
Lacquer dials have also become popular in recent years, with the "spider dial" attracting the most attention.
*Spider dial
This refers to a watch with large cracks that appear all over the dial due to aging, which can be seen in early dials when the dial was replaced with lacquer dials. Normally, this is considered to be a sign of deterioration, but watches with neat, spider-web-like cracks are popular and are sometimes highly valued.
The average price for a lacquer dial is between 1 million and 2 million yen (as of January 2025).
About the bezel
The bezel inserts used in the "Ref. 5513" are divided into five types.
・Long 5 insert: 1958-69
The font of the number "5" is distinctive, and it is called "long 5" because it is vertically long. In addition, the font is thick overall, and the 15-minute scales are also thick.
・Skinny 4 Insert: circa 1963
It features a slim "4" and is called the "Skinny 4." The 15-minute markings are also small and slim.
・MK3 insert: circa 1969-79
This bezel can be fitted to most matte dials, and features bold, bold fonts with serifs. Also, because of the long production period, the thickness of the letters varies depending on the era (early, middle, late), becoming thinner as the letters are produced, so care must be taken when distinguishing between them. Among the early models, there is a model called "kissing 4", where the "4" and "0" are touching.
・MK4 insert: from around 1980
The numbers and markings are placed on the outside of the insert, and the "4" is a flat 4.
※Flat 4
This refers to a number "4" where the inside is a trapezoid rather than a triangle.
・MK5 insert: mid-1980s~
This is the final model of the original bezel, and like the MK4, it is a flat 4. To distinguish it from the MK4, numbers and scales are placed across the entire width of the bezel.
About the bracelet
* Rivet bracelet (7206/80) Period: 1963-1968
<<Applicable models>>
Minute circle Mirror dial Meter first Feet first/lower sub initial
〇Wrapped bracelet (9315/280 (380)) Period: 1969-1976
<<Applicable models>>
・Meter first/Feet first/Lower sub
Hard bracelet (93150/580) Period: 1976-1990
<<Applicable models>>
・Feet First/Lower Sub Matte Dial (MK2-MK5)
summary
[Rolex] The Ref. 5513 is a very popular and long-selling model among the Submariner series.
Since they have been manufactured for about 30 years, they are highly specialized, so it may be difficult to tell them apart, but once you understand, your interest in watches will surely double. If you are considering purchasing one, please take a look at these points again before choosing a watch.
See you later!
