Yasuharu Abe's Patek Philippe Theory - Part 42 - Calatrava

hello everyone.

It's been getting really cold lately, so I've posted a photo of myself wearing short sleeves to warm myself up. (lol)

,,,

Yes. On the contrary, it makes me cold just looking at it. Sorry for being such a silly person. (laughs)

Well then! I will write a proper column.

I think that the word "Calatrava" is a phrase that anyone, not just a Patek Philippe enthusiast, but anyone who likes watches, has heard at least once. In fact, I had been thinking about writing about this "Calatrava" several times in my essays on Patek Philippe , but I was unable to write about it for a while...or, to be more precise, I was unable to make up my mind.

The reason why I stopped covering them is because I had previously decided that the definition of "Calatrava" was too vague and broad. I have seen and handled many models named "Calatrava" up until now, but there were also similar round watches that were not called "Calatrava" , which was a bit confusing (lol).

This time, I would like to write about the difficult subject of "Calatrava" in order to bring cheer to the times, and to express my thoughts on it, but also to express my feelings as a challenge. I have no idea how this will develop or end, but please stay with me until the end (laughs).

The first "Kunroku"

When talking about the Calatrava, one cannot leave out the " Ref. 96," popularly known as "Kunroku," which appeared in 1932 as the first Calatrava . In fact, it was a long-selling model that was manufactured until the early 1970s.

*Reference: Sotheby's

According to some collectors, the narrow definition of "Calatrava" is a model with a round case, bar indexes, and Dauphine-type (dolphin) hands, originating from the 1932 "Ref. 96" "Kunroku ". In addition, it has slender lugs that are deeply carved out on the sides and integrated with the case sides. However, some collectors are of the opinion that a "Calatrava" is one with a round case and slender lugs, and some say that watches with Breguet numerals could also be included in the "Calatrava" category .

Visually, it has a round case, lugs that are one with the case and have flowing curves, and a flat bezel.

"BAUHAUS"

It is said that the "Ref. 96" was designed based on the "BAUHAUS" concept, and when you actually look at the design, you can say that it completely follows the basic concept of "BAUHAUS" which is "impersonal, geometric, and strict, eliminating waste, studying materials, and refined shapes."

 What is "BAUHAUS"? *Reference: Wikipedia
 Founded in 1919 in Weimar, Germany, it is a comprehensive art and architecture museum that includes crafts, photography, and design. 
It is a school that taught art. It can also refer to the rationalist and functionalist art that follows this tradition.
 It is an educational institution that became the source of modernism, which pursued sexuality, and as a result of its activities, the foundations of "modern" product design in contemporary society have been laid.
 It is said that his expressive tendencies had a major influence on modernist architecture.

Origin of the name

Initially, the name "Calatrava" was only used within Patek Philippe . It is said that the name "Calatrava" came from the fact that the crown of the " Calatrava" is decorated with a cross.

It was in the mid-1980s that the company began to use the title it had been using internally as a model name, but the name "Calatrava" had been in use among some collectors and dealers even before then.

Representative model

In any case, it is an undeniable fact that Patek Philippe liked the "Calatrava" style in the narrow sense, and among the antique and vintage watches, there are the "Ref. 96" and other popular watches with large cases for the time.

"Ref.570"

*Reference: Sotheby’s

"Ref.565"

*Reference: Sotheby's

"Ref.2508" (Center Second)

"Ref.2509" (Small Second)

*Reference: Sotheby's

The "Ref. 2526" commonly known as "Tropical"

*Reference: Sotheby's

The "Ref.2545" (small second) is a waterproof watch with a 32mm case that is slightly larger than the "Ref.96" and has a screw-back back.

*Reference: Sotheby's

"Ref.2555" (Sender Second)

*Reference: Sotheby's

Popular among Japanese collectors: the so-called "Calatrava Auto" "Ref. 3403" "Ref. 3439"

*Reference: Sotheby's

I think some of the most representative examples are:

In addition, from the narrow definition of "Calatrava ," the familiar "Ref. 3445" in antique and vintage watches also seems to be included in the "Calatrava" category , although I personally think that the design is slightly different. Since the 1980s, the "Ref. 3796" has followed the trend of the "Ref. 96."

*Reference: Sotheby's

The "Ref. 3923" is a popular watch with a somewhat androgynous design that is also available in Japan-only versions.

*Reference: Sotheby's

There are masterpieces such as:

As mentioned earlier, the "Ref. 3445" was mentioned as a difference in design, but this model made me wonder if it was a "Calatrava," and I believe that the "Ref. 3520" inherited that design.

It features straight lugs on the case, which I thought was a departure from the definition of a "Calatrava." The unique guilloche bezel, called "Clou de Paris," is also impressive. This design was passed down to the later "Ref.3802/200," "Ref.3919," "Ref.5116," and "Ref.5119."

Unusual Model

As for unusual models, the "Ref. 2572" comes to mind.

*Reference: Sotheby's

The 35mm case and short, small lugs are very distinctive. This model was released in the 1950s, but this design did not become a standard at the time. It was revived in 2012 and released as "Ref. 5123".

In addition, the "Ref. 3960" was announced as one of the anniversary models to commemorate the 150th anniversary of the founding of Patek Philippe.

*Reference: Sotheby's

This is the first Calatrava officer's case, and it has become a hot topic. It features a set of screws on both sides of the lugs, a dial with Breguet numerals and Breguet hands, and a hunter case with an openable back, so although the case diameter is small at 33mm, it is thick and has a cute design.
In 1997, the "Calatrava" Ref. 5022, also called the Officer, was released, but unlike the "Ref. 3960", it did not have an openable hunter case. It also had a dial with Breguet numerals and Breguet hands, but there were several variations, including the material.

*Reference: Sotheby's

The "Ref.5000" uses the micro-rotor movement "Cal.240 PS", and people tend to have mixed opinions about its dial, hand design, and small second hand at 4 o'clock, but it seems that its uniqueness led to its success. The "Ref.6000" was released in 2005 and featured an innovative pointer date, followed by the "Ref.6006G" which was released in 2017 to mark the 40th anniversary of the birth of the ultra-thin movement "Cal.240" and was discontinued last year. This model had a case diameter of 39mm for a "Calatrava" , and was in line with the current trend.

Current Calatrava "Ref.5196"

The current model, "Ref. 5196," inherits the design of the authentic lineage of "Calatrava."

We have introduced a number of models that are broadly called "Calatrava," but the current model that can be called a "Calatrava" in the narrow sense is the "Ref. 5196." With its dot-shaped minute scale, baton-shaped three-dimensional hour markers, and Dauphine (dolphin) hands, the dial is reminiscent of the original "Ref. 96."

Like the "Ref.96", the "Ref.5196" also has a wide, flat bezel and a case where the middle case and lugs are integrated. I think the essence of the "Calatrava" , which has been inherited from the first model, is in the case design.

Considering the case size of the "Calatrava" , I think one of its features is that the strap is wide. The "Ref.96" has a case diameter of 31mm, which is small by today's standards, but the lug width was 18mm. I think it was quite wide at the time compared to watches of the same era. The successor model, "Ref.3796", has almost the same case size as the "Ref.96" and also has the same lug width of 18mm.

The current model, "Ref. 5196," has a case diameter of 37 mm, but the lug width is 21 mm, so I think the strap width is wide enough given the case size. I think the biggest features of the "Calatrava" inherited from the first generation are the flat bezel, the middle case integrated with the lugs, and the wide lugs (thick strap).

In addition, the platinum model of "Ref.5196" "Ref.5196P"

If you are an antique lover, you may have felt like you've seen the dial and hands design somewhere before. I am one of those people, and I have confirmed that the "Ref. 570" released around 1940 had the exact same design. The fact that they adopted such a design also shows how serious Patek Philippe is about the "Ref. 5196".

summary

The Calatrava Pilot Travel Time "Ref. 5524" is a current model that features a Calatrava case with a Travel Time function, and when it was released, it caused controversy due to its design that was unusual for Patek Philippe . The "Ref. 5212A-001" was released as a new model in 2019 and attracted attention for its stainless steel case and Patek Philippe's first weekly calendar function. The "Calatrava" is a representative model of Patek Philippe that never ceases to be talked about.

It will be interesting to think about what kind of "Calatrava" will be added when the new models are announced in 2021, and I sincerely hope that a model that will really surprise everyone will be released.

With the second state of emergency declared and people naturally spending more time at home, I would be very happy if the column I write can be a good way for you to pass the time.

see you!