[2021 Latest Edition] Mechanical Watches "8 Recommended Grand Seiko Models"

Happy New Year!

How did you all spend the New Year holidays? I'm sure many of you refrained from going back home or traveling.

Well, this is the first column of the new year 2021, and when I thought about what to write, I thought I would write about Grand Seiko, the leading Japanese watch brand, and I hope Japan (and the world) will do their best. Since it is still early in the year and no new products have been announced yet, I hope you will bear with me in introducing last year's models.

The brand was founded in 1881 by Kintaro Hattori in what was then Kyobashi Ward, Tokyo (now the southern part of Chuo Ward, Tokyo), and in 1892 he established a watch manufacturing factory, Seikosha. In 1913, the first domestically produced wristwatch, the Laurel, was produced, and Seiko was born with the determination to manufacture the finest watches in Japan in order to undermine the stronghold of the watch kingdom of Switzerland. However, in 1969, the world's first quartz watch developed by Seiko caused the Quartz Shock, which led to a decline in demand for mechanical watches and brought an end to the era of Grand Seiko.

Grand Seiko was added to the Seiko lineup again in 1988, as a quartz model equipped with the 95 series caliber, a high-precision movement with an annual accuracy of just ±10 seconds. Then, in 2004, the long-awaited model was released equipped with the Spring Drive caliber 9R series, Seiko's proprietary "third drive system." Its precision and smooth hand movement once again demonstrate the high level of Japanese technology and manufacturing.

This time, I would like to introduce some recommended current Grand Seiko models.

Recommended Model ①SBGA425 [Heritage Collection Ginza 2020]

This limited edition model is based on the nighttime Ginza streetscape and has a glamorous yet mature look. Yes, this is the Ginza model, where Commit Ginza is located (laughs).

The case is a modern interpretation of the design of the 44GS, released in 1967, and is equipped with the Spring Drive caliber 9R65. It is limited to 250 pieces and is sold only at six stores in Ginza. The deep black dial can also appear dark brown depending on the light. The power reserve display is inspired by bricks, and the rose gold of the inner ring and indexes harmonize with the color of the dial, giving it an elegant impression. The back cover has the gold letters "GINZA" and "Limited Edition" and a lion emblem, indicating that it is a Ginza exclusive.

We currently have the Grand Seiko Ginza Street Association 100th Anniversary Limited Edition "SBGA399", which was released in 2019 in a limited edition of 117 pieces. This model also has a nice dial color that is just as good as the "SBGA425", so if you are interested, please take a look.

https://www.commit-watch.co.jp/buyer/watches/mens/seiko/spring-drive-16/

[Source] Grand Seiko

List price: 649,000 yen (tax included)

Recommended Model ② SBGA211 [Heritage Collection]

This model is equipped with Seiko's unique mechanism "Spring Drive" that combines the power of a mainspring watch with the accuracy of a quartz watch, and features a smooth-moving second hand. The case and bracelet are made of bright titanium, which is about 30% lighter than SS (stainless steel) and has excellent scratch and corrosion resistance, making it so comfortable to wear that you will forget you are wearing it. The contrast of the blue steel second hand that stands out against the pure white dial is very beautiful. The second hand is a blue steel hand, but it is said that it is hand-fired one by one by a craftsman, and the work is said to be painstaking and requires constant effort. The dial is inspired by the fresh snow of Suwa, Nagano Prefecture, where Seiko's current headquarters is located, and it is a combination that stands out well. Grand Seiko occasionally uses this snow-white dial, and I personally like the texture very much and recommend it.

[Source] Grand Seiko

List price: 682,000 yen (tax included)

Recommended Model 3: SBGA281 [Heritage Collection]

This model also features Seiko's unique "Spring Drive" mechanism, which combines the power of a mainspring watch with the precision of a quartz watch, and features a smooth-moving second hand. Like the previously introduced "SBGA211," the case and bracelet are made of bright titanium, which is lightweight and highly resistant to scratches and corrosion, making it light and comfortable to wear. The dial color is a chic and elegant dark gray, and the vertical lines, reminiscent of a sunburst finish, are very appealing. Its calm impression makes it recommended for use in business situations.

[Source] Grand Seiko

List price: 737,000 yen (tax included)

Recommended Model ④ SBGW260 [Elegance Collection]

To commemorate the 140th anniversary of Seiko's founding in 2021, this model is a limited edition of 350 pieces that uses 18KPG (pink gold) to reproduce the design of the first Grand Seiko (released on December 18, 1960). The case diameter has been increased from 35.0mm to 38.0mm compared to the first model (original), which is in line with current tastes. The "Grand Seiko" logo at the 12 o'clock position on the dial is finished with an embossed finish, giving it a luxurious feel. In addition, the movement receiver, which can be seen from the back cover, is engraved with the "rounded corner S mark" that was used as a trademark when Kintaro Hattori founded Seikosha. The movement is equipped with the hand-wound caliber 9S64, and the gear train receiver is integrated to cover the movement, giving it a beautiful appearance. The original crocodile strap is beautiful, but we also recommend replacing it with a strap with hand-sewn stitching. It might be fashionable to order your own strap from Jean Rousseau or Camille Fournet. This is scheduled to be released on January 22, 2021. Personally, I also recommend the Grand Seiko Blue "SBGW259" that was released in June 2020 and uses brilliant hard titanium.

[Source] Grand Seiko

List price: 3,300,000 yen (tax included)

Recommended Model ⑤ SBGH279 [Heritage Collection]

This is an automatic mechanical high-beat 36000 model equipped with the caliber 9S85. This is a mechanism in which the "balance wheel," which is related to the accuracy of an automatic watch, vibrates 36,000 times per hour (10 times per second). Since it is less susceptible to external influences, the accuracy of the watch is stable and high precision (average daily difference of +5 to -3 seconds) is achieved. Most automatic watches vibrate at 28,800 vibrations per hour (8 vibrations per second) or 21,600 vibrations per hour (6 vibrations per second), so you can understand how fast the high-beat 36000 movement runs. Even among Swiss luxury watch manufacturers, only a very limited number of manufacturers are able to produce a caliber with a vibration rate of 36,000 vibrations, which shows the high level of Grand Seiko's technology.

Although it is similar to the "SBGA281," this model uses SS (stainless steel) for the case and bracelet. The dial is hand-finished by craftsmen, and "wood," a material that has had a deep influence on Japanese culture, was chosen to express its texture. The way the curves and faces of the case intersect is wonderful, and the contrast with the dark gray dial, which changes depending on the amount of light and the angle, is beautiful like a work of art.

[Source] Grand Seiko

List price: 704,000 yen (tax included)

Recommended Model ⑥ SBGJ237 [Sport Collection]

This model is equipped with the caliber 9S86, which adds a GMT function to the performance of the self-winding mechanical high-beat 36000 movement, which is resistant to external influences and achieves high accuracy. The surface of the rotating bezel is made of highly textured sapphire glass carved into a ring shape, which is very beautiful with its transparency, depth, and depth. The crown at the 4 o'clock position is designed with practicality in mind, taking into account the volume of the 44.2mm case, and does not interfere with smooth wrist movement. The deep midnight blue dial and the bezel divided into upper and lower parts in white and blue for day and night give a refreshing impression. It is a color suitable for summer that is not found in Rolex's GMT Master.

[Source] Grand Seiko

List price: 792,000 yen (tax included)

Recommended Model ⑦ SBGH281 [Heritage Collection]

This is a limited edition model celebrating the 60th anniversary of Grand Seiko's birth in 2020. It was sold on February 8th with a limited number of 1,500 pieces. This model has a very beautiful contrast between Grand Seiko's unique blue dial, the gold GS logo, and the bright red second hand. Blue dials have been popular with other brands lately, but I think this blue is also a really nice color. The movement is equipped with the caliber 9S85, which has a high-speed vibration of 36,000 vibrations per hour (10 vibrations per second), making it resistant to external influences, reducing accuracy differences due to posture differences and daily variation, and achieving more stable high accuracy.

[Source] Grand Seiko

List price: 704,000 yen (tax included)

Recommended Model 8: SBGX343 [Sport Collection]

Finally, I would like to introduce the quartz model. This reinforced anti-magnetic model features a steep bezel with vertical stripes and a unique case shape. It is not only highly anti-magnetic, boasting 20 ATM water resistance and 40,000 A/m, but also durability. The Lumibrite applied to the index is the first Grand Seiko to use two colors, green and blue, and combined with the black dial, which is a color that prevents light reflection, it boasts high visibility both day and night. The movement is equipped with the very thin and highly accurate quartz caliber 9F61. Personally, I like the design because it reminds me of Rolex's old Milgauss (Ref. 1019). I wish the index was a little more subdued, but this balance may be beautiful.

[Source] Grand Seiko

List price: 407,000 yen (tax included)

summary

What did you think.

Grand Seiko is a brand that has many fans not only in Japan but also overseas. It is a domestic brand that combines Japanese technology and traditional culture, and it is a brand that I personally pay close attention to. It also has dials that use lacquer, and I hope to see it continue to promote Japanese culture in the future.