Good evening everyone!
This week, we have a new series, In this new project, we will explain the basics of luxury watches in an easy-to-understand way, for those who are not very familiar with luxury watches and those who want to learn more about them.
This is the sixth time
[ Introduction to Luxury Watches ]: 『 Cases 』 and 『 Lugs 』
The "case" of a watch is the main body of the watch, which contains and connects all the parts such as the movement, dial, hands, and indexes. Depending on its shape, it can be said to be an important part that greatly affects the impression of the watch. The "lugs", which are closely related to the "case", play an important role in connecting the "case" and the strap. In this article, we will explain the roles and shapes of the "case" and "lugs".
The role of the case
" Case " = " The outer container that holds and connects all the parts "
Many materials are used for the case, including stainless steel, gold, platinum, titanium, and carbon, and each brand also produces its own unique material. The shapes are also various, such as round, square, rectangular, tonneau, and cushion.
The role of 'rugs'
" Lug " = " The part that connects the watch body to the strap "
The "lugs" connect the watch body to the strap/bracelet, and are also called "horns," "attachments," or "feet." Depending on the shape and width of the lugs, the impression of the watch can be changed to be casual or elegant.
Case shape
Next, we will explain the typical case shapes.
" round "
"Round" is the most familiar round case. It is thought that the "round" case is common for wristwatches as well because pocket watches, which have a longer history than wristwatches, were "round" shaped. It is also characterized by an even distance from the center to the outer periphery, making it highly airtight.
[ Representative model ]
[ Patek Philippe ] " Calatrava "
" Rectangular "
"Rectangular" refers to a rectangular "case." It first appeared around the 1920s, and is known for giving an impression of intelligence and elegance, and going well with formal styles such as jacket styles.
[ Representative model ]
[ Jaeger-LeCoultre ] " Reverso "
" Tonneau "
"Tonneau" refers to a barrel-shaped case. It is an "Art Deco" design based on geometric shapes that was popular between 1910 and 1930. Even though it is generally called a "tonneau" shape, the length and shape of the bulge vary depending on the brand and model, and the impression it gives can be very different.
[ Representative model ]
[ Richard Mille ] " Rafael Nadal "
" Square/Care "
"Square/Calé" refers to a square-shaped case. Unlike round cases, it has an eye-catching shape, but its well-balanced design makes it easy to wear in formal situations.
[ Representative model ]
[ TAG Heuer ] " Monaco "
" Oval "
"Oval" refers to an oval-shaped case. It is often found in women's watches, often made of gold, and features a luxurious and elegant design.
[ Representative model ]
[ Audemars Piguet ] " Millenary "
" cushion "
"Cushion" refers to a rounded rectangular case. The dial is round, giving the watch a classical feel even though it is a sporty model.
[ Representative model ]
[ Panerai ] Radiomir
" Octagon "
"Octagon" refers to an octagonal case. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is famous, but the history of the "Octagon" itself dates back to around 1920, and it is often seen in Rolex watches of that time. The three-dimensional, edgy form is a design that gives a sporty yet elegant impression.
[ Representative model ]
[ Audemars Piguet ] " Royal Oak "
Shape of the lug
Next, we will explain the shape of the lugs. The shapes of lugs can be broadly divided into three types.
" No 'lag' "
The first type is a type without lugs, where the strap is attached directly to the watch body. This can be seen in antique gold watches and models that emphasize design.
[ Representative model ]
[ Patek Philippe ] " Golden Ellipse "
" Integrated "
The second type is where the watch body and the lugs are integrated. By integrating them with the case, it is possible to create a strong and durable watch. This type is often used for sports watches.
[ Representative model ]
[ Rolex ] " Daytona "
" Welded type "
The third type is where the lugs are welded onto the watch body after the fact. Because the manufacturing process is separate from the case, there is more freedom in design, such as thickness and width, than with an integrated type.
[ Representative model ]
[ A. Lange & Söhne ] " Lange 1 "
summary
I have explained the roles and shapes of the "case" and "lugs" - what do you think?
The "case" that houses the movement and dial of the watch, and the "lugs" that connect the "case" to the belt/bracelet, are surprisingly not noticed, but they are very important parts. The shape of each part also affects the impression of the watch, so from now on, I would like you to pay more attention to the "case" and "lugs".
I hope that after reading this article, you will become interested in luxury watches!
see you!