Good evening everyone!
Today I would like to talk about the heart of a watch - its movement .
The movement is one of the joys of enjoying a watch. The beauty of the shape created by hundreds of intricately assembled parts can be said to be a work of art that captivates the viewer. The movement inside the watch is undoubtedly the hidden face, the mastermind behind the scenes.
This time, we will pick out five movements that are considered masterpieces by each manufacturer and introduce their functions and beauty. Please enjoy reading until the end!
Ⅰ. [Rolex][Rolex] "Cal.1570"
Representative installed models
1. Explorer "Ref. 1016"
2. GMT Master "Ref. 1675"
3. Submariner "Ref. 1680"
4. Datejust "Ref.1601"
*Including derived Cal. such as "Cal.1575"
※ " Ref.1016"
Features
The "Cal. 1570", known as the pinnacle of Rolex's low-beat movements, is a movement that increases the vibration frequency of the proven "Cal. 1560" from 18,000 vibrations per hour to 19,800 vibrations per hour.
The defining feature of this movement is its excellent balance of durability and precision . Although it has been over 50 years since its birth, many Rolexes equipped with the Cal.1570 are still in active use. As for maintenance, repairs are still being accepted, and even if the manufacturer stops accepting repairs, there are many reliable workshops, so this is a movement that can be used safely for a long time.
III. [Patek Philippe] "Cal. CH27-70 Q"
Representative installed models
Grand Complication Models 1. Perpetual Calendar Chronograph "Ref. 3970" 2. Perpetual Calendar Chronograph "Ref. 5970" 3. Perpetual Calendar Chronograph "Ref. 5004"
※"Ref.3970"
Features
The "Cal. CH27-70 Q" was born from an improved version of the Nouvelle Lemania ebauche "Cal. 2310" with the addition of a modernly designed perpetual calendar module.
Its beauty has been called "the most beautiful movement in the world," and in terms of performance, it is a masterpiece that fully expresses Patek Philippe's unique style, with reliable chronograph operation, a highly reliable perpetual calendar, and the combination of the patented Gyromax balance and a free-sprung Breguet balance spring that has no regulator.
IV. [Audemars Piguet] "Cal.2121"
Representative installed models
1. Royal Oak Jumbo "Ref.5402ST" 2. Royal Oak Jumbo Jubilee "Ref.14802ST" 3. Royal Oak Extra-Thin "Ref.15202ST.OO.1240ST.01"
※ "Ref.15202ST"
Features
The historic movement "Cal. 2121" is an improved version of Jaeger-LeCoultre's ebauche "Cal. 920" and is installed in the two-hand Royal Oak.
The "Cal. 2121," said to be a masterpiece movement in the history of watches, is an ultra-high-end movement that required significant cost and effort to achieve its thinness .
Because the space around the rotor core, which bears the load, is narrow, the core is made thinner, rails are provided around the rotor, and the rotor slides on the ruby bearing embedded in the outer periphery of the base plate. This structure makes it possible to support the rotor and ensures winding efficiency. At the time, this ruby bearing was considered a part used in ultra-luxury watches and was considered very expensive. It goes without saying that Audemars Piguet put extraordinary thought into this movement. It can be said that it was destined to become a masterpiece.
V. [A. Lange & Söhne] "Cal. L901.0"
Representative installed models
1. Lange 1, Reference 101.021 2. Lange 1, Reference 101.039 3. Lange 1, Reference 101.032
※"Ref.101.032"
Features
The "Cal. L901.0" was created by improving the Jaeger-LeCoultre "Cal. 822", which was released in 1992, and adding a twin barrel.
This movement has realized the outsized calendar display , which is a characteristic of the Lange 1, and also has a long power reserve, proving its high functionality. The decoration on the balance cock seen through the see-through back and the swan-neck regulator on top of it are beautiful and never get old. In addition, it is a historic masterpiece that has supported the rapid advancement of A. Lange & Söhne after its revival, producing a succession of derivative movements based on the reliable "Cal. 822".
summary
What did you think.
The movement is said to be the heart of a luxury watch. I was once again introduced to the famous movements from each manufacturer, and I was entranced by their beauty.
Movements, which incorporate the pinnacle of technology and can be used for decades or even centuries, have a wonderful backstory for each manufacturer and model, and I believe that by learning the story behind their production, you can appreciate the appeal of luxury watches even more.
Those who are not yet familiar with luxury watches may not have had many opportunities to come into contact with their movements, but I hope that by reading this article, you will become interested in movements and be able to appreciate the greatness of luxury watches.
see you!