Good evening everyone!
This week, we have a new series, In this new project, we will explain the basics of luxury watches in an easy-to-understand way, for those who are not very familiar with luxury watches and those who want to learn more about them.
This is the 13th time
[ Introduction to Luxury Watches ]: " Annual Calendar "
One of the attractions of luxury watches is the existence of models equipped with complicated mechanisms. There are many models equipped with normal calendar functions, but the number of models equipped with an "annual calendar" is significantly smaller. In the first place, it can only be made by a handful of top brands with the technical capabilities, and for that reason, it can be said to be a mechanism that many watch fans long for.
Today, for those who are not familiar with how an annual calendar works, I would like to explain the characteristics of an annual calendar and how it differs from a perpetual calendar.
What is an "Annual Calendar"? Explaining its features
" Annual calendar " = " Annual calendar "
The "Annual Calendar" is a calendar mechanism also known as the "Annual Calendar." Watches equipped with a normal calendar mechanism are set to 31 days, so the calendar needs to be adjusted for months that have only 30 days. Some people may think, "It's not that often, so it's okay," but it's actually a surprisingly time-consuming process. Many people have probably had the experience of looking at their watch on the 1st and finding that the calendar is still on the 31st , and having to adjust it in a hurry.
The "Annual Calendar" automatically determines when to adjust the time at the end of the month. It is an innovative mechanism that only needs to be adjusted once a year, between February 28th or 29th and March 1st, and does not need to be adjusted again. The "Annual Calendar" was created by Patek Philippe, a high-class brand known as one of the world's three major watch brands. After spending about four years on development, the world's first model equipped with an "Annual Calendar" was announced at the Basel Fair in 1996 .
Differences from the "perpetual calendar"
The most common question about the "annual calendar" is, "What is the difference between a "perpetual calendar"?" This "perpetual calendar", also known as the "perpetual calendar", has the same functions as the "annual calendar", as well as adjusting February and taking into account the leap year that occurs once every four years. This means that there is virtually no need to adjust the watch. (Note: Adjustments are required once every 100 years due to leap years.)
The "perpetual calendar" is said to be one of the three most complicated mechanisms in the world, along with the "minute repeater" and the "tourbillon." Its foundation was laid in 1795 by Abraham-Louis Breguet, a genius watchmaker. It may seem surprising, but the "perpetual calendar" actually has a longer history than the "annual calendar." The more advanced a mechanical watch is, the more expensive it becomes, so naturally the "annual calendar" is more affordable and can be said to be a mechanism that is closer to our lifestyle.
Representative models of the Annual Calendar
The "Annual Calendar" was created after being patented by Patek Philippe, but is now available from many other brands. Each brand has its own unique design, demonstrating its individuality. Here we will introduce some representative models equipped with the "Annual Calendar".
[Patek Philippe] "Annual Calendar" "Ref.5396" series
The Ref. 5396 was released as a 20th anniversary model of the first Patek Philippe Annual Calendar, the Ref. 5035. This model inherits not only the Annual Calendar mechanism, but also the style of the Calatrava Ref. 96, which is said to be the pinnacle of classic watches.
[Patek Philippe] "Annual Calendar" "Ref.5146" series
Another must-have Patek Philippe Annual Calendar is the Ref. 5146. It was introduced in 2005 and has been in production for over 15 years. The reason why I chose this model among the many Annual Calendar models is because I used it myself at the time and have experienced its greatness. (Laughs) It is a versatile watch that can be used with casual styles as well as dressy styles.
*Formerly Yagi's favorite model
[A. Lange & Söhne] "1815 Annual Calendar"
This is the A. Lange & Söhne's representative model with an annual calendar, the 1815. This model is not only attractive for its annual calendar mechanism, but also for its moon phase mechanism, which was designed based on the precise calculation that it takes 122.6 years for one day of error to accumulate.
[Rolex] "Sky-Dweller"
The Sky-Dweller is a model equipped with a complex mechanism from Rolex, known for its practical luxury watches. In addition to the annual calendar, it also has a GMT function. It is said to be equipped with the most complex mechanism among Rolex watches, and the blue dial is very popular among the series.