Watch Anatomy Vol. 49: Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 16713 and Ref. 16718

What do you look for when choosing a mechanical watch?

Many people would probably answer "design," "functionality," and "asset value." Of course, appearance and resale value are very important points, but by increasing your knowledge and understanding of the historical background of brands and models, minor changes over the years, and other factors, you will likely come to love watches even more and enjoy the fun of choosing one. In this column, we will provide as much information as possible about mechanical watches to both beginners and advanced watchers, and will provide a thorough analysis and explanation to help you choose a watch.

This time, we will be focusing on the Rolex GMT-Master Ref. 16713 and Ref. 16718, so be sure to read to the end.

GMT-Master II Ref. 16713 and Ref. 16718

The Ref. 16713 and Ref. 16718 were long-selling models that supported the GMT-Master II from the 1990s to the mid-2000s.
This monumental model has raised practicality and luxury to modern standards, with the change from a plastic crystal to sapphire crystal and the inclusion of the Cal. 3185 movement, which allows for completely independent hour hand operation.
This time, we will thoroughly explain these two models, including the differences in appearance due to the different materials, parts specifications, dial variations, and other details.

Basic specifications [Ref. 16713 (SS/YG)]
Production period: circa 1989 to circa 2006 Case diameter: 40mm
Crystal: Sapphire crystal Bezel: Aluminum 24-hour display insert Bracelet: 78363 / 78793 / 62523H
Movement: Cal.3185
Waterproof performance: 100m

[Ref. 16718 (18KYG)]
Production period: circa 1989 to circa 2005 Case diameter: 40mm
Crystal: Sapphire crystal Bezel: Aluminum insert Bracelet: 7206/8, 78798, Jubilee bracelet Movement: Cal. 3185
Waterproof performance: 100m

Dial

■ Ref.16713 - Two types available: Black and Brown. The Ref.16713 also had two main lineups: black and brown. While following the flow from the previous model, Ref.16753, the index specifications have been changed to give it a more modern and sophisticated look.

● Black dial

A classic combination of a jet black gloss dial and gold lettering.
The indexes have been changed from the conventional "barnacles (nipples)" to gold-framed Luminova indexes (originally tritium), improving visibility and giving a more luxurious feel.

● Brown dial

The beautiful brown sunray finish shines almost gold depending on the light. This is the color that symbolizes this model, and has been reevaluated in recent years due to the rise in market prices.

■ Ref.16718 - Two colors that define the dignity of solid gold The Ref.16718 is available in black and brown to match the overwhelming presence of the solid gold case.

● Black dial

The black accentuates the shine of the 18KYG case, creating a very striking design.
It combines sportiness and dressiness, and its neat look makes it easy to match with a suit.

● Brown dial

This specification perfectly matches the 18KYG case.
The case, bracelet, and dial are all gold-toned, giving off a dignified aura of solid gold.

needle

Both references feature yellow gold hands.
- The hour, minute and second hands are gold. - The GMT hand is a gold hand with a large triangle. - The luminous materials are tritium (until around 1998), Luminova (from 1998), and Super-LumiNova. Compared to the previous generation, the clear view through sapphire crystal makes the beauty of the cut and finish of the gold hands stand out even more.

bezel

■ Reference 16713
There are two main types of Rolesor models:
● A stylish color scheme that combines black, stainless steel, and yellow gold. ● A calm impression that is easy to use in business situations. ● Brown x gold (brown gold bezel)
- A design that pairs with the "Root Beer" dial - A popular color that creates a beautiful contrast between the gold bezel and the stainless steel case, creating a vintage yet luxurious feel.

■ Reference 16718
Similarly, the solid gold model is fitted with a bezel that matches the dial color.
The brown and gold bezel in particular is the feature of the 16718 that best embodies the essence of solid gold.
This is also the last generation that allows you to enjoy the fading (aging) that is unique to aluminum inserts, and the subtle differences in color between each individual piece will appeal to collectors.

case

Both models feature a 40mm Oyster case for enhanced practicality.
The crystal has evolved to sapphire crystal. It is thicker and more robust. The holes on the lugs (the holes on the side of the case) were closed around 2003.
It is thicker than the 1675 series, and is characterized by a "sturdy fit" that is similar to modern sports Rolexes.

bracelet

■ Reference 16713
Both the Oyster bracelet and the Jubilee bracelet were available.
・Oyster: 78363 (single) / 78793 (double lock)
・Jubilee: 62523H
Due to the long manufacturing period, minor changes are evident depending on the model year, such as changes to the buckle specifications (from single to double lock) and the integration of the flash fit (solid end link).

■ Reference 16718
Solid gold Oyster or solid gold Jubilee.
In particular, the Oyster bracelet "78798" has gradually eliminated the hollow feel of the links, giving it a more weighty feel.
In recent years, the solid gold Jubilee case has been attracting attention again due to its delicate shine and comfortable fit.

buckle

The early specimens had a single lock, but from the middle onwards it evolved into a double lock (flip lock).
The later model, equipped with a double-lock buckle to prevent accidental opening, is particularly popular among users who value practicality as a sports model.
The material and engraving of the clasp vary depending on the era, and the solid gold model has a luxurious finish even on the inside of the clasp.

Movement

Cal.3185
Both models are equipped with the famous "Cal.3185" movement.
- Independent hour hand operation function - Improved stability by adopting a twin-bridge balance - High beat (28,800 vibrations)
Unlike the GMT Master I (with its fast-forward date function), the hour hand can be moved independently, making it a true GMT watch that allows for easy setting of a second time zone.

summary

What did you think?

Rolesor "Ref. 16713" and solid gold "Ref. 16718".
These are semi-vintage masterpieces that combine the classic feel of an aluminum bezel with the practicality of sapphire crystal and Cal. 3185.
It has a warm luster and sharp case lines that are not found in current ceramic bezels.
Choose from a bold black dial or a root beer dial for a more individual look. There's a sexiness that can only be found in the gold models of this era.

See you later!