What do you look for when choosing a mechanical watch?

Many people would probably answer "design," "functionality," and "asset value." Of course, appearance and resale value are very important points, but by increasing your knowledge and understanding of the historical background of brands and models, minor changes over the years, and other factors, you will likely come to love watches even more and enjoy the fun of choosing one. In this column, we will provide as much information as possible about mechanical watches to both beginners and advanced watchers, and will provide a thorough analysis and explanation to help you choose a watch.

This time, we will be focusing on the Rolex GMT-Master II "Ref. 16760 and Ref. 16710," so please read to the end.

First and second generation GMT-Master II Ref. 16760, 16710

The GMT-Master II was born in the 1980s, when Rolex took a new approach to the GMT function. Equipped with an independently moving 24-hour hand, the GMT-Master II, which was more practical, began with the "Fat Lady" Ref. 16760 and reached its perfection with its successor, the Ref. 16710.

In this article, we will take an in-depth look at the first-generation GMT-Master II model, the Ref. 16760, and the second-generation model, the Ref. 16710, focusing on elements such as the exterior, specifications, movement, dial, luminous material, and bezel.

Ref. 16760 | GMT-Master II First Generation "Fat Lady"

◾️ Overview and Background

The Ref. 16760, released in 1982, is a memorable model that marked the beginning of the new Rolex GMT-Master II series. Its GMT function allowed for independent operation of the 24-hour hand, allowing users to track three time zones with a single crown operation.

The most distinctive feature of this model is the thickness of its case. Compared to the previous GMT-Masters (Ref. 1675, Ref. 16750), it features a significantly larger middle case, which has earned it the nicknames "Fat Lady" and "Sophia Loren (a famous Italian actress)" due to its appearance.

Basic Information : Production period: 1982-1988; Case diameter: 40mm
Bezel: Bidirectional rotating bezel (cork)
Crystal: Sapphire crystal Movement: Cal. 3085
・Waterproof performance: 100m

The "Ref. 16760" bezel is only available in red and black (Coke), and there are no variations such as red and blue (Pepsi) or solid black. The luminous indexes are plump, three-dimensional dots, and the dial font is rounded, typical of this era.

Dial

The dial is black lacquer and uses tritium (SWISS-T 25) as luminous paint, and its attractive cream-colored patina develops over time. Due to the short production period, there are few dial variations, and they are generally classified as Mk1 to Mk3.

◯ Mk1 (circa 1982-84)
・"OYSTER PERPETUAL" written alone (without date)
・Letters vary from one to another, but they all come with serifs.


Mk2 (circa 1985-87)
・ "OYSTER PERPETUAL DATE" notation ・Letter with serifs


Mk3 (circa 1986-88)
・"OYSTER PERPETUAL DATE" inscription ・Characterized by a bold typeface with no serifs

Movement

The movement used is the "Cal. 3085." This movement allows the 24-hour hand to move independently, and the hour and GMT hands can move independently, dramatically improving practicality.

Overall Review

The Ref. 16760 has been undergoing a resurgence in recent years due to its short production period and the overwhelmingly smaller number of units produced compared to its successor, the Ref. 16710. Many fans are drawn to the powerful fat case and the unique details of the original GMT-Master II, making it a model that will likely become even rarer in the future.

Ref. 16710 | GMT-Master II Second Generation Model

◾️ Overview and Background

The Ref. 16710, manufactured for approximately 20 years from around 1988 to 2007, is a model that can be said to be the representative of the GMT-Master II. It reduces the volume of its predecessor, the Ref. 16760, and returns to a standard mid-size case. Its refined design and high practicality have made it a popular choice for many years.

In the later period, there was a transitional period equipped with "Cal. 3186", and rare variations appeared in the final models (Z to M model numbers).

Basic Information : Production period: 1988-2007; Case diameter: 40mm
Crystal: Sapphire crystal (with crown watermark from around 2003)
Bezel: Aluminum, available in red and blue, red and black, and black. Water resistance: 100m.

The "Ref. 16710" has three bezel colors, allowing you to completely change the look by switching them out depending on the occasion or your preferences. Among them, the Pepsi bezel (red and blue) remains extremely popular.

Dial

As luminous paints changed, the name gradually changed from tritium (around 1988-1998) to Luminova (around 1998-2000).
SWISS-T<25: Tritium SWISS: Luminova SWISS MADE: Luminova

There are also some spelling variations, such as:
Model logotype: "GMT-MASTER II" added at the 6 o'clock position. Rectangular type: "II" with long vertical bars. Stick type: "II" with a rare design that omits the vertical bars.

Movement

・Cal.3185 (1988-2007)
・Cal.3186 (late Z series to M series)

Models equipped with the "Cal. 3186" were only produced for a short period of time among the "Ref. 16710." Even within the Z to M series, there are those equipped with the "Cal. 3186" and those that do not, and those equipped with the "Cal. 3186" are highly rare and have a high market price.
A simple way to distinguish between calibers is by performing a wiggle test. When the hour hand is driven independently, the GMT hand will move slightly in a jerky motion due to interference, while the Cal. 3185 will barely move at all, while the Cal. 3186 will.

Also, set the crown to the correct position and open it to the first position where the hour hand can move. Slowly move the hour hand around once, then turn the crown to the right again until it is in the correct position.
The hour hand of the Cal. 3185 makes one full rotation every 5 hours, while the hour hand of the Cal. 3186 makes one full rotation every 8 hours; by checking this, you can tell the difference.

Overall Review

The "Ref. 16710" is a long-selling model that boasts one of the highest levels of perfection and variety among the "GMT-Master II." Over the course of nearly 20 years, minor specification changes have been made repeatedly, making it increasingly popular as a collectible. Models equipped with the "Cal. 3186" movement and those with stick dials are becoming increasingly premium.

summary

The "Ref. 16760" and "Ref. 16710" represent the first and second generations of the "GMT-Master II," but they are two completely different watches with completely different characters. The "Ref. 16760" is highly valued for its bold design that makes the most of its thickness and its short production period. On the other hand, the "Ref. 16710" boasts a high level of perfection with its sophisticated design and wide variety of variations.

These two watches, each embodying the spirit of their respective eras, are essential when discussing the appeal of the GMT-Master II.

See you again in the next model explanation!
See you next time!!

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