Watch Anatomy Vol. 25: Submariner Date (Ref. 16803, 16613)

What do you look for when choosing a mechanical watch?

Many people would probably answer "design," "functionality," and "asset value." Of course, appearance and resale value are very important points, but by increasing your knowledge and understanding of the historical background of brands and models, minor changes over the years, and other factors, you will likely come to love watches even more and enjoy the fun of choosing one. In this column, we will provide as much information as possible about mechanical watches to both beginners and advanced watchers, and will provide a thorough analysis and explanation to help you choose a watch.

This time, we will be focusing on the Rolex Submariner Ref. 16803, 16613, so please read to the end.

Model Overview

The Ref. 16803, which was released around 1983, was the first Submariner to feature a stainless steel and 18K yellow gold combination. It was a turning point for the Submariner, adding a touch of luxury to the otherwise tool-oriented Submariner. Another notable feature of this model is that it was only produced for a short period of time, only for a few years until around 1988, meaning that not many were in circulation.

Basic specifications : Year of manufacture: 1983-1988 Case: 40mm
Material: Stainless steel x 18KYG
Bezel: Unidirectional rotating bezel Water resistance: 300m
Crystal: Sapphire crystal Bracelet: Hard bracelet Movement: Cal.3035

Dial

◯Fujitsubo index specifications

◯ Late model index specification

The early models used "barnacle (nipple) indexes." The three-dimensional gold indexes are decorated with tritium luminous material, giving them a unique presence. The later models moved to indexes with larger luminous areas, similar to the stainless steel model, and the design became more practical. The dial colors are black and blue. Some blue dials have a tropical variegation.

Tropical Change Images

night light

◯T SWISS T specification

◯ SWISS-T<25 specifications

Not only are all "Re.16803" watches equipped with tritium luminescence, but they are also characterized by the relatively large number of models that have developed a cream color or dark tan over time, giving them a strong vintage feel.

bezel

Equipped with a reverse rotation prevention aluminum insert, it comes in two colors, black and blue, and those with faded blue over time are highly sought after by collectors.

Movement

Equipped with the "Cal. 3035." [Rolex] It was the first to feature a quick-change date and a high-beat specification of 8 vibrations per second (28,800 vibrations). It is also known as a short-lived caliber because production ended after only a few years.

Model Overview

The Ref. 16613, released in 1988, was the successor to the Ref. 16803 and was a long-selling model manufactured for nearly 20 years. The movement, Cal. 3135, is a classic Rolex classic, boasting exceptional stability and precision. Available in black or blue, the champagne gray dial studded with diamonds and sapphires was also a popular choice.

Basic specifications : Year of manufacture: 1988-2009 Case: 40mm
Material: Stainless steel x 18KYG
Bezel: Unidirectional rotating bezel Water resistance: 300m
Crystal: Sapphire crystal Bracelet: Hard bracelet Movement: Cal.3135

Dial

◯ SWISS-T＜25 specification (tritium)

◯ SWISS specification (LumiNova)

◯ SWISS MADE specification (LumiNova)

◯16613SG (Gray Sapphire)

◯16613SG (Champagne Sapphire)

◯16613 (Violet)

Like the previous model, the lineup includes black and blue, and models whose dial color changes from blue to violet over time (as seen on Ref. 16803, Ref. 16808, and Ref. 16618 ) have become extremely popular. Gem-set dials were also introduced with Ref. 16613, expanding the Submariner's options as a luxury watch. Around 1998, the luminous material changed from tritium to Luminova, and the specifications vary depending on the year of manufacture, further enhancing its collectibility.

bezel

Black/blue aluminum insert. Both the blue and black bezels are popular for their faded appearance.

Movement

It is equipped with the "Cal. 3135," a Rolex signature automatic movement that excels in durability, precision, and ease of maintenance.

summary

The "Ref. 16803" was the first combination model of the "Submariner," and although it was short-lived, it has great historical value and is a watch that offers a unique vintage feel.
On the other hand, the "Ref. 16613" has been loved for 20 years as a highly refined third-generation combination sub, and has particularly elevated the "blue sub" to an iconic status.

Both models are essential when discussing the evolution of the Submariner, which combines practical diver's watches with luxury.

See you again in the next model explanation!
See you next time!!