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1st to 3rd generation Submariner Date Yellow Gold Model
Ref.1680/8, Ref.16808, Ref.16618
The Ref. 1680/8 was the first Submariner model made of solid gold. Since then, it has been replaced by the Ref. 16808 and Ref. 16618 models, with sapphire crystals and evolved movements, and has continued to grow in presence as a symbol of luxury sports Submariner.
This lineage is especially loved by fans who seek "luxury" and "splendor" among Submariners. This time, we will take a closer look at its appeal for each generation.
Ref.1680/8 ~Basic Specifications~
Year of manufacture: 1969-1979 Case: 40mm
Bezel: Bidirectional rotating (aluminum insert)
Windshield: Plastic (dome type)
Water resistance: 200m water resistance Bracelet: Winding bracelet (18K Oyster)
Movement: Cal.1570
Frequency: 19,800 vibrations
Ref.16808 ~Basic Specifications~
Year of manufacture: 1979-1988 Case: 40mm
Bezel: Bidirectional rotating (aluminum insert)
Windshield: Sapphire crystal Water resistance: 300m Water resistance Bracelet: Solid link bracelet (18K Oyster)
Movement: Cal.3035 (high beat, with quick change)
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations
Ref.16618 ~Basic Specifications~
Year of manufacture: 1989-2008 Case: 40mm
Bezel: Anti-reverse (aluminum insert)
Windshield: Sapphire crystal Water resistance: 300m Water resistance Bracelet: Solid link bracelet (18K Oyster, later model is SEL)
Movement: Cal.3135
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations
1. Dial
[Ref.1680/8]The biggest feature of the Ref. 1680/8 is that it is the first Submariner model to be made of 18K yellow gold, and at the same time, it features three-dimensional indexes called barnacle (nipple) indexes.
◯ Barnacle (nipple) index (black / blue)
These barnacle (nipple) indexes feature tritium luminous material set in a gold frame, and the appeal of these pieces is that each one takes on a different look as the luminous material burns and changes over time.
Among them, there are blue dials, some of which have turned purplish over time, such as "violet," or "tropical dial" colors, which have turned brown, and they tend to fetch very high prices these days.
Luminous: T SWISS T (tritium)
At the 6 o'clock position is the "T SWISS T" inscription, which indicates that it is tritium luminous. Tritium luminous is a self-luminous material, but it has already exceeded its half-life (about 12 years), and most of the timepieces do not glow at present.
Instead, many of these watches have a patina that has aged to a cream to brown color on the luminous parts of the hands and indexes, making them extremely popular among vintage fans.
[Ref.16808]
The Ref. 16808 is a model that has undergone major evolution, from a plastic crystal to sapphire crystal and the Cal. 3035 movement, but the dial also features a variety of variations that are typical of a transitional period.
◯ Initial: Barnacle (nipple) index (black / blue)
The early models also feature barnacle (nipple) indexes, inheriting the previous model Ref. 1680/8. However, the crystal is now sapphire, which improves visibility and makes the indexes and dial look sharper.
◯ Mid-term and later: Index with edges (black/blue)
From the mid to late 1980s, the indexes were gradually changed to those with edges. In particular, the blue dials have a radial finish (sunray finish), which changes color vividly depending on how the light hits them.
Among this blue, there are some that turn violet due to exposure to sunlight and aging, and each one is valued as a unique individual.
Luminous: SWISS – T < 25 (tritium)
The inscription continues to read "SWISS - T < 25". Because it is tritium luminous, the longer it is stored, the more likely it is that the luminous will have burned and a patina will appear, and the combination with a blue dial is particularly likely to be highly rated.
[Ref.16618]
The Ref.16618 has an even wider variety of dials, making it the ultimate Submariner in luxury and versatility. In addition to the gorgeousness of the solid gold model, attention is also paid to the finish and materials of the dial.
◯ Main dial variations:
・Blue dial ・Black dial ・Champagne dial (2P sapphire 8P diamond)
・Gray dial (2P sapphire, 8P diamond)
The blue dial is particularly popular. Depending on the angle of the light, some pieces look blue or violet, while others look violet even when viewed from the front, making it a very expressive dial.
◯ Evolution of luminous material:
- Initial: SWISS – T < 25 (tritium)
・Mid-period: SWISS (Early Luminova)
・Late model: SWISS MADE (LumiNova and later)
Around 2000, the dial was switched to Luminova luminous material, which gives the dial a clear impression without any luminous burn. This makes the dial highly practical and ensures visibility at night.
2. Bezel
[Ref.1680/8]
The Ref. 1680/8 features a bidirectional rotating bezel, just like the stainless steel model Ref. 1680, but it is made of 18K yellow gold, giving it an overwhelming sense of luxury.
The bezel insert is made of aluminum and comes in two types to match the dial color:
・Black insert (black dial)
・Blue insert (blue dial)
This bezel insert is very susceptible to changes over time, and in watches that have been used for many years, the blue may fade to purple or gray, or the black may take on a brownish tinge, resulting in some interesting changes.
Such "bezel burn" and "color loss" are valued in the vintage market. Watches in good original condition are quite rare.
Number of bezel increments:
Although it has a 60-minute scale and a design typical of a diver's watch, it did not yet have an anti-reverse mechanism at the time, and its functionality was focused solely on visibility.
[Ref.16808] The reference 16808 also retains the bidirectional rotating bezel, with the insert still made from aluminum.
・Blue dial (blue bezel)
・Black dial (black bezel)
The crystal has been changed to sapphire, which improves the compatibility with the bezel and visibility. In addition, the glossiness of the dial and the bezel color are beautifully harmonized, resulting in a visually sophisticated finish.
◯ Changes over time and popularity:
The fading of the blue bezel is slightly more gradual than that of the Ref. 1680/8, but those that have faded to purple or smoky blue are still rare, and those where the fading matches the dial are traded at particularly high prices.
Since the Ref. 16808 is a transitional model, evaluation criteria tend to be strict, including whether or not genuine parts are still available and whether there is any discrepancy in color.
[Ref.16618]The Ref. 16618 was the first watch to feature a unidirectional rotating bezel to increase safety as a diver's watch.
This prevented the risk of the bezel accidentally moving during measurements while diving, greatly improving its practical reliability. This model was the first to feature the same "one-way rotation structure" as the current Submariner.
◯ The aluminum insert is used, yet the design is precise:
The inserts are still made of aluminum and are available in two colors, blue and black. However, the scales and markings are slightly deeper than the previous generation, improving visibility.
◯ Popularity of faded specimens:
Even for the Ref. 16618, faded blue bezels (purple to violet) are highly prized, and those with a matching color tone to the dial are popular with collectors both in Japan and overseas.
In particular, pieces in which both the blue dial and blue bezel have turned purple are sometimes prized as "full fades."
3. Bracelets
The yellow gold Submariner Date model has a full 18K gold exterior, and the bracelet specifications are also a clear indication of the evolution of technology and design over the years. In this article, we will delve into the differences in bracelet structure, fit, and changes made to each generation.
⸻
[Ref.1680/8]
The Ref. 1680/8 is fitted with an 18K yellow gold wrapped bracelet (such as the reference 7206). The links are hollow, making it extremely light and giving it the "soft feel" typical of Rolex watches of the time.
◯ Characteristics of the wrap bracelet: Lightweight and flexible. Tends to become "wrinkled" over time. Flash fit is detachable (movable).
Unlike modern solid links, a well-worn watch can feel quite "soft" when worn.
While this is sometimes appreciated as a distinctive vintage flavor, it can also be seen as a disadvantage by users looking for a more solid feel.
In addition, the bracelet's clasp (buckle) features a crown logo, and since the shape and engraving may change depending on the era, this is an important point in determining originality.
[Ref.16808]
The Ref. 16808 is a transitional model in which the bracelet was changing from hollow links to solid links, and the specifications vary depending on the year of production.
Mid- to later: solid link type (Ref. 92908, etc.)
- Full 18K yellow gold construction - Links are thicker and heavier - Flash fit is still separate
In this era, even sports models began to demand a solid "texture," resulting in a finish that felt far more luxurious and robust than a wound bracelet.
However, the end links are still separate and there is a small amount of play at the connection with the case.
The buckle is a single lock type, the crown logo is engraved or embossed, and an extension link (diver's extension) is also included as standard, so it can be worn over a diving suit.
[Ref.16618]
The bracelet of the Ref. 16618 has undergone a major evolution, moving towards more modern specifications in both appearance and structure.
◯ Early model: Solid link bracelet (Ref. 92908) + Separate flash fit (501B)
◯ Late model: Integrated flush fit specification
The integrated Flash Fit design creates a unified fit between the case and bracelet, providing a stable fit without any rattling.
◯ Evolution of buckle structure:
The diver's extension allows for easy size adjustment without tools, making it extremely convenient. In addition, the Rolex crown logo is engraved on the buckle, giving the watch a sophisticated overall look.
Wearing comfort:
Overall, compared to the previous two generations, the bracelet has been significantly improved in terms of rigidity, luxury, and stability. It is highly regarded as a Submariner that is fully usable even in modern times, despite being made of solid gold.
4. Movement
The Submariner Date yellow gold model has evolved its movement with each generation, strongly reflecting the background of the times and technological innovations. The differences between each model are also important checkpoints in terms of accuracy, durability, and ease of maintenance.
[Ref.1680/8] Movement: Cal.1570
The Ref.1680/8 is equipped with the Cal.1570, a representative vintage Rolex automatic movement. It can be said to be a movement representative of the 1970s.
◯ Characteristics of Cal.1570 ・Frequency: 19,800 vibrations/hour (low beat)
-Date display (no quick change)
The greatest appeal of this caliber is its robustness, which allows it to withstand years of use. Although it is slightly less accurate than modern movements, it can still be used daily if it is properly overhauled.
On the other hand, since there is no quick change (fast-forward date function), adjusting the calendar takes some effort, which can be said to be a unique feature of vintage models.
[Ref.16808] Movement: Cal.3035 (high beat + quick change)
The major technological innovation in the Ref. 16808 is the adoption of Cal. 3035. This is a movement that has been widely installed in Rolex sports models since the 1980s, and it can be said that it is a caliber that has laid the foundation for modern practicality.
◯ Cal.3035 Features ・Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour (high beat)
・Quick change mechanism (fast date forward)
- Hack function included
Starting with Cal. 3035, the new caliber was designed with a high beat rate of 28,800 vibrations (8 vibrations per second), a design that is still used in many Rolex models today, allowing the second hand to move visually smoother.
In addition, the quick-change mechanism makes adjusting the date incredibly easy, providing great convenience for everyday use.
It is easy to maintain and the supply of parts is relatively stable, so it is a movement that you can use with confidence in the future.
[Ref.16618] Movement: Cal.3135 (Rolex's masterpiece caliber)
The Ref. 16618 is equipped with the well-known Rolex Cal. 3135. Since its introduction in 1988, it has been a long-selling movement that has been used as a practical watch for over 30 years, and is extremely excellent in terms of reliability, durability, and maintainability.
◯ Features of Cal.3135 ・Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour (high beat)
-Quick change and hack function -Twin bridge balance cock for improved shock resistance
As the successor to Cal.3035, it has been finely improved to achieve a higher level of balance between stability and precision.
It is trusted by many engineers due to its ease of maintenance, and it long reigned as Rolex's standard movement until the introduction of the current model, Cal. 3235.
A complete summary of the 1st to 3rd generation Submariner Date (yellow gold models)
Ref.1680/8・Ref.16808・Ref.16618
The Submariner Date solid gold model began with the Ref. 1680/8, which was released in 1969. Since then, the model has evolved with the use of sapphire crystals, the evolution of the movement, and the strengthening of the bracelet, and has grown into a modern, practical watch.
Each generation has its own distinct personality and charm, and their value as collectible and practical watches is increasing.
Tips for choosing a model: If you want to enjoy a vintage atmosphere → Ref.1680/8
In particular, the tritium patina and faded blue bezels are the ones to look for. They are expensive, but they have been steadily popular over the long term.
・If you want to enjoy individual differences in specifications → Ref.16808
The dials feature nipple or rim indexes, tritium luminous material, and a wide variety of individual dial colors. There is a depth to this transitional model.
・If you are looking for both practicality and luxury → Ref.16618. It combines modern ease of use with the power of solid gold. Recommended for those looking for a solid gold Rolex that can be used every day.
summary
The solid gold Submariner, starting with Ref. 1680/8, has a unique appeal as a solid gold sports watch that is common to all generations.
The watch's presence, which combines the robustness of the Submariner with the splendor of solid gold, is truly worthy of being called a "luxury tool for adults."
Each generation has its own personality, and the best one will vary depending on how you use it and your preferences.
When considering a purchase, we recommend that you carefully check the condition (thinning of the case, warping of the bracelet, fading of the dial) and, if possible, hold the actual item in your hands to make an informed choice.
The more you look, the more likely you are to find your very own solid gold Sub.
See you in the next article!
See you later!
