Watch Anatomy Book Vol. 24: Submariner Date (Ref. 1680/8, 16808, 16618)

What do you look for when choosing a mechanical watch?

Many people would probably answer "design," "functionality," and "asset value." Of course, appearance and resale value are very important points, but by increasing your knowledge and understanding of the historical background of brands and models, minor changes over the years, and other factors, you will likely come to love watches even more and enjoy the fun of choosing one. In this column, we will provide as much information as possible about mechanical watches to both beginners and advanced watchers, and will provide a thorough analysis and explanation to help you choose a watch.

This time, we will be focusing on the Rolex Submariner Ref. 1680/8, 16808, and 16618, so please read to the end.

Model Overview

The Ref. 1680/8 was first introduced as a solid gold Submariner model. It was later replaced by the Ref. 16808 and Ref. 16618, each with a sapphire crystal crystal and an evolved movement, and has continued to grow as a symbol of luxury sports Submariner.

This lineage of the Submariner is especially loved by fans who seek luxury and elegance. This time, we will take a closer look at its appeal for each generation.

First-Generation Submariner Date Ref. 1680/8

Basic specifications : Year of manufacture: 1969-1979 Case: 40mm
Bezel: Bidirectional rotating Crystal: Plastic Water resistance: 200m Bracelet: Rivet bracelet , hard bracelet Movement: Cal.1570
Frequency: 19,800 vph

Second-generation Submariner Date Ref. 16808

Basic specifications : Year of manufacture: 1979-1988 Case: 40mm
Bezel: Bidirectional rotating Crystal: Sapphire crystal Water resistance: 300m Bracelet: Hard bracelet Movement: Cal.3035
Frequency: 28,800 vph

Third-generation Submariner Date Ref. 16618

Basic specifications : Year of manufacture: 1989-2008 Case: 40mm
Bezel: Unidirectional rotating crystal: Sapphire crystal Water resistance: 300m Bracelet: Hard bracelet Movement: Cal.3135
Frequency: 28,800 vph

①Dial

"Ref.1680/8"

This is the first Submariner model to be made in 18K yellow gold, and its major feature is the use of three-dimensional indexes known as barnacle (nipple) indexes.

◯ Barnacle (Nipple) Index (Black/Blue)

This barnacle (nipple) is an index with a small luminous area and tritium-filled gold frame. Its appeal lies in the fact that each individual piece takes on a different look as the luminous material fades and changes over time.
Among them, blue dials tend to fetch very high prices, with some examples turning purple over time (called "violet") or brown (called "tropical dial").

Luminous: T SWISS T (tritium)

The "T SWISS T" inscription at the 6 o'clock position indicates that the watch is made with tritium luminous material. Tritium luminous material is self-luminous, but it has already well exceeded its half-life (approximately 12 years), and the majority of these watches no longer glow. However, many watches have developed a "patina" over time, with the luminous parts of the hands and indexes turning cream to brown, making them highly sought after by vintage watch enthusiasts.

"Ref. 16808"

This model has undergone significant evolution, with the crystal changing from plastic to sapphire crystal and the movement now being the Cal. 3035. There are also several variations on the dial, suggesting this is a transitional period.

◯ Initial: Barnacle (nipple) index (black / blue)

Following on from the previous model, Ref. 1680/8, the early models feature barnacle (nipple) indexes. However, the crystal is now sapphire, which improves visibility and makes the indexes and dial appear sharper and more lustrous.

Mid-period and later: Index with edges (black/blue)

*The photo shows "Ref.16803"

From the mid- to late 1980s, the dials were gradually replaced with edged indices. The blue dial features a radial sunray finish, which changes color vividly depending on the light. Some blue dials change color to violet with exposure to sunlight and aging, and each is valued as a unique and distinctive piece.

Luminous: T SWISS T → SWISS – T < 25 (Tritium)

Early examples are marked "T SWISS T," while mid-period and later examples are marked "SWISS - T < 25." Because it uses tritium luminous material, the longer an example is stored, the more likely it is that the luminous material will have faded and developed a patina, and this is especially likely to be highly valued when paired with a blue dial.

"Ref. 16618"

The dial variations are even more extensive, positioning the Submariner as the pinnacle of luxury and versatility. In addition to the splendor of a solid gold model, attention to detail can be seen in the dial finish and materials.

◯ Main dial variations:
Blue dial, black dial, champagne dial (2P sapphire, 8P diamond)
- Gray dial (2P sapphire, 8P diamond)

The blue dial is particularly popular. Depending on the angle of the light, some watches appear blue to violet, and some even appear violet when viewed from the front, making for a very expressive dial.

◯ Evolution of luminous properties:
・Initial: SWISS – T < 25 (tritium)
・Mid-period: SWISS (Early Luminova)
・Late model: SWISS MADE (LumiNova and later)

Around 2000, the watch switched to Luminova luminous material, which gives the dial a clear impression without any fading. This makes it highly practical and ensures nighttime visibility.

②Bezel

"Ref.1680/8"

Like the stainless steel model "Ref. 1680," it features a bidirectional rotating bezel, but it is made of 18K yellow gold, giving it an overwhelming sense of luxury.

The aluminum bezel insert comes in two types to match the dial color:
- Black insert (black dial)
- Blue insert (blue dial)

This bezel insert is very susceptible to aging, and in watches that have been used for many years, the blue may fade to purple or gray, and the black may take on a brownish tinge, resulting in a tasteful change.

Such "bezel fading" and "discoloration" are valued in the vintage market, and original bezels in good condition are becoming increasingly rare.

Number of bezel increments:

Although it has a 60-minute scale and a design typical of a diver's watch, it did not yet have an anti-reverse mechanism at the time, and its functionality was solely focused on visibility.

"Ref. 16808"

The bidirectional rotating bezel remains, and the insert is still made of aluminum.
・Blue dial (blue bezel)
・Black dial (black bezel)

The crystal has been changed to sapphire crystal, which matches the bezel and improves visibility. The glossy finish of the dial and the bezel color are beautifully harmonized, resulting in a visually sophisticated finish.

◯ Changes over time and popularity:

Blue bezels are rare because some examples fade to purple or smoky blue. Those with a well-matched patina between the dial and bezel fetch particularly high prices.

"Ref. 16618"

To enhance safety as a diver's watch, it was first equipped with a unidirectional rotating bezel. This prevented the risk of the bezel accidentally moving during diving measurements, greatly improving practical reliability. This model marked the beginning of the "one-way rotation structure" that is the same as the current Submariner.

◯ The aluminum insert remains intact, resulting in a precise design:

The inserts are still made of aluminum and come in two colors: blue and black. However, the scales and markings are slightly deeper than the previous generation, improving visibility.

◯ Popularity of faded specimens:

Blue bezels that have faded (purple to violet) are highly prized, and those with a matching blue dial are popular with collectors both in Japan and overseas. In particular, those with a blue dial and blue bezel that have both faded to purple are sometimes prized as "full fades."

③ Movement

The movements of the Submariner yellow gold models have evolved with each generation, reflecting the historical background and technological advances of each era. The differences between each model are key considerations in terms of precision, durability, and ease of maintenance.

"Ref.1680/8"

The Cal. 1570 is a representative vintage Rolex automatic movement. It can be said to be a movement representative of the 1970s.

◯ Features of "Cal.1570"・Frequency: 19,800 vph (low beat)
-Date display (no quick change)

The greatest appeal of this caliber is its robustness, which allows it to withstand years of use. Although it is slightly less accurate than modern movements, it can still be used daily with proper overhaul. On the other hand, since it does not have a quick-change function (a function for quickly changing the date), adjusting the calendar can be a bit of a hassle, which can be said to be the charm of a vintage model.

"Ref. 16808"

A major technological innovation was the adoption of the Caliber 3035 (high beat + quick change). This movement has been widely used in Rolex sports models since the 1980s, and can be said to have laid the foundation for modern practicality.

◯ Features of "Cal.3035"・Frequency: 28,800 vph (high beat)
・Quick change mechanism (fast date advance)
- Hack function included

The high-beat design, which is still used in many models today, features a 28,800 vibrations (8 vibrations per second) and a visually smooth movement of the second hand. The quick-change mechanism also makes setting the date incredibly easy, providing great convenience for everyday use. With high maintenance and a relatively stable parts supply, this movement is sure to remain reliable for years to come.

"Ref. 16618"

It is equipped with the famous Rolex movement, the Caliber 3135. Since its introduction in 1988, it has been a long-selling movement that has been used in practical watches for over 30 years, and is an exceptional movement in terms of reliability, durability, and ease of maintenance.

◯ Features of "Cal.3135"・Frequency: 28,800 vph (high beat)
-Quick change and hacking function -Twin bridge balance cock for improved shock resistance

As the successor to the "Cal. 3035," it has undergone subtle improvements, achieving a higher level of balance between stability and precision. Its ease of maintenance earned it the trust of many engineers, and it long reigned as Rolex's standard movement until the introduction of the current model, the "Cal. 3235."

Tips for choosing a model

The first solid gold Submariner Date model was the Ref. 1680/8, which was released in 1969. Since then, the model has evolved over the years, with the introduction of sapphire crystal for the crystal, the evolution of the movement, and the strengthening of the bracelet, and has grown into a modern, practical watch.

Each generation has its own distinct personality and appeal, and their value as collectible and practical watches is increasing.

*The photo shows the tropicalized "Ref. 1680/8"

① If you want to enjoy the vintage atmosphere → "Ref.1680/8"

The tritium-burnt patina and faded blue bezels are especially popular. They are expensive, but they are expected to remain stable over the long term.

② If you want to enjoy the individual differences in specifications → "Ref. 16808"

Nipple or rimmed indexes, tritium luminous dials, and a wide variety of dial colors are available. This transitional model has a unique depth.

3. If you're looking for both practicality and luxury → "Ref. 16618"

It combines modern ease of use with the impact of solid gold. Recommended for those looking for a solid gold Rolex that can be worn every day.

summary

Starting with the Ref. 1680/8, the solid gold Submariner has a unique appeal as a "solid gold sports watch" that is common to all generations. The Submariner's robustness and the splendor of solid gold create a presence that is truly worthy of being called a "luxury tool for adults."

Each generation has its own unique characteristics, and the best one will vary depending on how you use it and your preferences.
When considering a purchase, we recommend that you carefully check the condition (thinness of the case, creases in the bracelet, discoloration of the dial) and, if possible, hold the actual item in your hands to make an informed choice.

The more you search, the more likely you are to find your very own solid gold Sub.

See you in the next article!

See you later!