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Good evening everyone!
This column talks about mechanical watches from an engineer's point of view. This is the 21st installment, and will continue from the previous one.
"About dial finishing and decoration"
I will talk about this topic.
There are many different types of dials for luxury watches. Last time, we talked about general dial finishing and decoration, but this time, as a sequel to that, we would like to "dig deeper" into the types of "guilloche engraving."
Please be sure to watch until the end!
What is Guilloche engraving?
Guilloché is a technique used to decorate watch dials and other objects, invented by Abraham-Louis Breguet in the 18th century. The technique uses special engine-turning machines to create geometric, precise patterns on the surface of the dial, such as even lines, waves or radial patterns.
Like a matte finish, guilloche engraving has the technical advantage of reducing light reflection and improving visibility, and its combination of aesthetic beauty and practicality is the reason it is used on many watch dials.
Types of guilloche engraving
1. Clos de Paris
This is a finish with sharp pyramid-like rivets arranged in a regular pattern. The name means "nails of Paris" in French.
Since it was invented by Breguet, it has a very long tradition and is a famous technique used by many prestigious brands as it adds elegance to watches.
Patek Philippe has traditionally used this "Clou de Paris" decoration on its Calatrava bezels.
② Varg
As the name suggests, the pattern is inspired by ripples on water.
Breguet's masterpiece "Marine," which has a sea motif, uses a variable motif that perfectly matches the image.
Breguet is also adept at using several different guilloché patterns on the same dial, giving the dial a variety of colors.
③Soleil
A pattern that radiates like sunlight. The name means sun in French.
This guilloche is like a more powerful version of the "sunray finish" that I introduced last time.
Rolex also has a dial called "Sunbeam," which can also be considered a type of Soleil.
④Damier
The Damier pattern is famous for Louis Vuitton bags. It has also long been known in Japan as the "ichimatsu pattern."
It features a square checkered pattern and is a design that is familiar and approachable to Japanese people.
The dial of the IWC Ingenieur, a new model for 2023 that has been much talked about, also features a beautiful Damier guilloche pattern.
⑤Côte de Geneve
Cotes de Genève create a striped pattern.
Guilloche is often used primarily to decorate movements rather than dials, but as I, "Dr. Ito," am an engineer by trade and have spent more time looking at watch movements than dials, it is a pattern that is familiar to me, so I have chosen to introduce it last.
I think it would be great if more manufacturers adopted this elegant and beautiful Côtes de Genève pattern not only for their movements but also for their dials.
summary
What did you think?
I think you can see that there are many different types of guilloche engraving. Sunburst dials that reflect light beautifully are attractive, but guilloche engraving that controls the reflection of light and has a variety of atmospheres as a design is also truly wonderful. Another great thing about guilloche engraving is that it is not just decorative, but originally developed as a technique to improve visibility.
We hope that this article has been useful to you and has piqued your interest in luxury watches! If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us directly and we will answer them thoroughly. We look forward to your visit and inquiries.
Look forward to the next one! See you next time!
