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Good evening, everyone!
This column discusses mechanical watches from an engineer's perspective. For this 21st installment, we will continue from last time
"Dial finishes and decorations"
as our theme.
There are many different types of dials for luxury watches. Last time, we talked about general dial finishes and decorations, but this time, as a continuation, we will "deep dive" into the types of "guilloché carving."
Please read to the end!
What is Guilloché Engraving?
Guilloché engraving is a technique used for decorating watch dials and other surfaces, invented in the 18th century by Abraham-Louis Breguet. This technique uses a special engine-turning machine to create geometric and precise patterns, such as uniform lines, wavy patterns, or radial patterns, on the surface of the dial.
Guilloché engraving, like matte finishes, has the technical advantage of suppressing light reflection and improving legibility. Its combination of aesthetic beauty and practicality is why it is used on many watch dials.
Types of Guilloché Engraving
① Clous de Paris
A pattern of regularly arranged pyramid-shaped studs. In French, it means "nails of Paris."
Since its invention by Breguet, it has a very long tradition and adds elegance to watches, making it a famous technique adopted by many prestigious brands.
Patek Philippe traditionally uses this "Clous de Paris" decoration on the bezels of its Calatrava models.
② Vague
As its name, meaning "wave," suggests, this pattern is inspired by ripples of water.
Breguet's masterpiece "Marine," themed on the sea, features the perfectly fitting Vague pattern.
Breguet is also skilled at using multiple different guilloché patterns on a single dial to add various colors to the dial.
③ Soleil
A pattern that spreads radially like sunlight. It means "sun" in French.
This guilloché is a more powerful version of the "sunray finish" I introduced last time.
Rolex also has a dial named "Sunbeam," which can be considered a type of Soleil.
④ Damier
The Damier pattern is famous from Louis Vuitton bags. In Japan, it has long been known and loved as "ichimatsu moyo" (checkered pattern).
Characterized by a square checkered pattern, it's a familiar and endearing design for Japanese people, isn't it?
The dial of the IWC "Ingenieur," which garnered attention as a new release in 2023, also features a beautiful Damier guilloché pattern.
⑤Côtes de Genève
Côtes de Genève is a striped pattern.
Although it is mainly a guilloché used for decorating movements rather than dials, I, "Doctor Ito," who is an engineer by background and has spent more time looking at movements than watch dials, introduced it last because it is a familiar pattern to me.
This Côtes de Genève possesses a neat beauty. I think more manufacturers should adopt it for their dials, not just their movements.
Summary
What did you think?
I hope you now understand that there are indeed many different types of guilloché engraving. While sunray dials that beautifully reflect light are also appealing, guilloché engraving, which controls light reflection while offering various design atmospheres, is truly wonderful. Furthermore, it's excellent that guilloché engraving isn't just decoration but originated from a technique to improve legibility.
I hope this article was beneficial to you and sparked even a little interest in luxury watches! Also, please feel free to ask any questions directly, and we will be happy to answer them thoroughly. We look forward to your visit and inquiries.
Stay tuned for the next installment! See you then!
