Dr. Ito's thorough analysis of mechanical watches!! Vol.18 ~ About the materials used in wristwatches ~

Good evening everyone!

This column talks about mechanical watches from an engineer's point of view. This is the 18th installment.

"About the materials used in watches"

I will talk about this topic.

There are many different types of materials used in watches, some light and some heavy, some easy to scratch and some not so easy to scratch, but the "material" of the case plays a major role. If you understand the characteristics of each material and what it is suitable for, you will be able to use your watch for a long time.

So this time, I would like to focus on the "materials" and explain them.

Please be sure to watch until the end!

Common materials used in luxury watches

①Stainless steel

Stainless steel is the most popular material in the world of mechanical watches, and is used in many models.

Stainless steel is made up of metals and elements such as iron, chromium, and nickel, and is a combination of the words "stain" (rust) and "less" (absence). As its name suggests, its greatest feature is that it is resistant to rust, has high hardness, and has stable durability.

However, there is not just one type of stainless steel; there are countless types depending on the purpose, cost, and design, and the material that has been most commonly used in watches is probably the material called "SUS316L."

Stainless steel is also a material for which various manufacturers hold patents or registered trademarks depending on its components and characteristics. Rolex also uses "SUS904L," a material previously used for medical purposes, as "Rolex Steel."

Stainless steel has a good balance of cost and performance and is easy to handle, making it a material that can be recommended to anyone.

②Gold and Platinum

Gold is a material that is admired and supported by many people. Its elegant, beautiful shine and market-recognized value give it a luxurious feel.

The gold material used in watches is generally 18K, but 24K is too soft as a metal, so it is considered ideal to use 18K, which has been mixed with other metals to increase its hardness while maintaining its beauty.

*Karat (K), which indicates the purity of gold, is a unit that expresses the gold content into 24 parts.

There are three main types of gold: yellow gold, pink gold, and white gold . These are colored by mixing them with silver, copper, palladium, etc.

There are a few things to keep in mind. Gold and platinum are materials that are resistant to rust and can be used for a long time, but they are not particularly scratch-resistant. If you wear a watch every day, it will inevitably get small scratches, so be aware of that.

In addition, gold and platinum have a high specific gravity, so they are inevitably heavy. Although this weight is one of their attractions, they are not suitable for people who prefer lighter watches.

Special materials used in luxury watches

1. Ceramic

Ceramic is by far the most scratch-resistant material used for watch cases. It is lighter than metal, yet has a Vickers hardness of 2300, the same as sapphire crystal, and is more than 10 times harder than stainless steel. In addition, ceramic does not tarnish or rust. It is a material with many benefits.

However, processing it requires advanced technology, and since it is produced through a combustion process, etc., manufacturing costs tend to be high.

②Titanium

The appeal of titanium is its lightness. It is a lightweight material with a specific gravity of about 60% that of stainless steel. Because it is light and easy to wear, it is increasingly being used as a material for watch cases.

Other important points include the fact that the surface is coated with an oxide film, which makes it resistant to rust even when it comes into contact with seawater, and it is also strong and less likely to cause metal allergies.

On the other hand, titanium is difficult to process, but in recent years, as technology has improved, the number of beautifully finished titanium cases has increased. It is still fresh in our memory that the Yachtmaster, which uses "RLX Titanium", will debut as a new model in 2023.

③Bronze

We want to keep our watches in good condition. This is something everyone wants, but recently there has been an increase in the demand for watches that have a unique character that changes over time. Brass is generally known as a case material that allows you to enjoy aging, but it cannot be denied that it gives off a cheap feel when used as a material for luxury watches.

One material that has been gaining attention is bronze. As the name suggests, bronze uses copper for the case. Generally, bronze is not very anti-allergenic and rusts easily, so it is rarely used in luxury watches. However, brands such as Tudor, Panerai, and Bvlgari have chosen to use bronze for the case material, creating models that boast the ability to "enjoy the aging process that comes with time."

Its unique beauty makes it the perfect material for those who are not satisfied with ordinary watches.

summary

What did you think?

Everyone has different criteria when choosing a watch, and the factors they value vary, such as brand, movement performance, dial color, etc. From now on, we hope you will also pay attention to the case material when choosing your watch.

We hope that this article has been useful to you and has piqued your interest in luxury watches! If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us directly and we will answer them thoroughly. We look forward to your visit and inquiries.

Look forward to the next one! See you next time!