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Good evening everyone!
This column talks about mechanical watches from an engineer's perspective. This is the 44th installment.
"Is it true that in-house movements equal luxury?"
I will be talking about this topic here.
When discussing luxury watches, the keyword that always comes up is "in-house movement." This refers to a movement made in-house. It is sometimes called a "manufacture."
Many luxury watch brands claim that their products are valuable because they are made in-house, and many people probably have the impression that "in-house = justice." But is that really the case? If you think about it from this perspective, you'll find some interesting facts. Let's take a look.
Why the value of in-house movements is being discussed
In fact, it wasn't until the 2000s that in-house movements began to be seen as a sign of luxury. Until then, many brands had been using generic movements made by ETA, a company in the Swatch Group.
Many people have heard of ETA movements, such as the 7750 (7750-7750). These movements were mass-produced in the hundreds of thousands, so they have a proven track record and are durable. There are no concerns about maintenance or parts availability. In this day and age, the better brands are making the most of ETA movements.
So why have in-house movements become so high-end?
・ETA announces supply restrictions
・With the boom in luxury watches, each brand sought to differentiate itself
It was useful for marketing
This brings to mind the following points: The in-house myth is also a fairly modern marketing strategy.
The Pros and Cons of In-House Movements
The image that "in-house movements = good" is not incorrect, but of course there are both advantages and disadvantages.
merit
1. The brand's philosophy can be reflected in the movement
By unifying the layout of the plates and the finishing philosophy, as A. Lange & Söhne does, the brand's world view is directly embodied in the movement, creating an overwhelming appeal.
2. Easy to create your own mechanism
There is a great deal of freedom, such as the ability to give the chronograph clutch structure a unique character or to equip it with multiple barrels to create a watch with a long power reserve.
Disadvantages
1. Lack of experience and initial defects are common
There are also models that don't have the "peace of mind that comes from having been used for decades" like ETA.
2. If you are concerned about maintenance
If parts supply and repair systems in each country are weak, there is a possibility that we may have difficulties in the future.
3. Development costs are reflected in the price
Since it's in-house, it may be more expensive.
What's more important than "in-house"?
When judging the value of a watch, I don't think the essential point is whether the movement is made in-house. What's more important is,
1. Is the movement's philosophy clear?
For example, Patek Philippe's "Cal. CH29-535" has steadily improved the weakness of the horizontal clutch. As a result, the smoothness of the chronograph buttons is unmatched.
Lange's "Cal. L951.1" is a movement with an incredibly beautiful balance, based on the traditions of German watches.
When you have a clear idea of what you want to achieve by creating this movement, it really moves people.
2. Can it be used for decades to come?
Proper after-sales service and parts supply are essential. These are what determine the "asset value" of a watch. Even if a watch has an in-house movement that is full of creativity, it is meaningless if it cannot be overhauled after 10 years.
There are many "famous machines" that are not manufactured in-house
What's interesting is that if you look back at the history of luxury watches, there are actually many masterpieces that did not use in-house movements.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 5402 (Cal. 2121 series → Jaeger-LeCoultre base)
・Patek Philippe Ref. 3940 (Cal. 240 series → heavily influenced by Jaeger-LeCoultre)
・Rolex Daytona Ref. 16520 (Cal. 4030 → Zenith El Primero base)
In other words, it seems that "who finished it and how" is more important than "who originally made it."
This is one of the fascinating things about luxury watches.
summary
What did you think?
・The in-house movement certainly shows the brand's seriousness.
However, in-house movements do not necessarily mean absolute superiority.
・After-sales system and degree of completion determine long-term value
・There are many famous machines in history that were not made in-house.
What's truly important isn't the value of being made in-house, but the manufacturer's philosophy and level of perfection. We recommend choosing a watch from an unbiased perspective.
We hope that this article has been useful to you and has sparked even a little interest in luxury watches! If you have any questions, please feel free to ask us directly and we will be happy to answer them. We look forward to your visit and inquiries.
Please look forward to the next one!
