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Good evening, everyone!
This column discusses mechanical watches from an engineer's perspective. For the 44th installment, we will be discussing the following topic:
'In-house movements = luxury, is that true?'
In discussions about luxury watches, "in-house movement" is a keyword that always comes up. It refers to movements manufactured by the brand itself, sometimes called "manufacture" movements. Many luxury watch brands promote the idea that "being in-house makes it valuable," so many people probably have an image of "in-house = good." However, when you consider whether this is truly the case, interesting facts emerge. Let's delve into it.
The background to why in-house movements began to be valued
In fact, it was only in the 2000s that in-house movements began to be treated as a "sign of luxury." Before that, many brands used mass-produced movements made by "ETA," which belongs to the Swatch Group.
Many of you have probably heard of movements based on the 7750 (seven-seven-five-zero). These movements were mass-produced in units of hundreds of thousands, so they had a wealth of実績 and were highly durable. Maintenance and parts supply were also stable. It was an era where good brands effectively utilized ETA movements.
So why did in-house movements become associated with luxury?
・ETA announced supply restrictions
・The luxury watch boom led brands to seek differentiation
・It was convenient for marketing
These points come to mind. In other words, the in-house myth is largely a modern marketing strategy.
Advantages and disadvantages of in-house movements
While the image of "in-house movement = good quality" is not entirely wrong, there are certainly both advantages and disadvantages.
Advantages
1. Brand philosophy can be reflected in the movement
By unifying the plate layout and finishing philosophy, as seen in A. Lange & Söhne, the brand's worldview becomes embedded in the movement, creating an overwhelming appeal.
2. Easier to create unique mechanisms
There is a high degree of freedom, allowing for unique features such as distinct chronograph clutch structures or the incorporation of multiple mainsprings to achieve long power reserves.
Disadvantages
1. Less proven track record, more prone to initial defects
Some models lack the "decades of proven reliability" that ETA movements offer.
2. Potential concerns about maintenance
If parts supply or repair infrastructure in different countries is weak, it could lead to difficulties in the future.
3. Development costs are reflected in the price
In-house movements can sometimes lead to higher prices.
What's more important than "in-house"?
When assessing the value of a watch, whether the movement is "in-house" seems not to be the core issue. What's more important is:
1. Is the movement's philosophy clear?
For example, Patek Philippe's "Cal.CH29-535" painstakingly improves upon the weaknesses of the horizontal clutch. As a result, the smooth feel of the chronograph button is unparalleled.
And Lange's "Cal.L951.1" achieves a supremely beautiful and balanced movement while incorporating German watchmaking traditions.
When it's clear what a movement was created to achieve, it's truly captivating.
2. Can it be used for decades to come?
Proper after-sales service and parts supply are crucial. This is what determines the "asset value" of a watch. Even the most creatively designed in-house movement is meaningless if it cannot be overhauled in 10 years.
Many "masterpieces" are not in-house
Interestingly, looking back at the history of luxury watches, there are many masterpieces that do not have in-house movements.
・Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref.5402 (Cal.2121 series → Jaeger-LeCoultre base)
・Patek Philippe Ref.3940 (Cal.240 series → heavily influenced by Jaeger-LeCoultre)
・Rolex Daytona Ref.16520 (Cal.4030 → Zenith El Primero base)
In other words, "who originally made it" might be less important than "who finished it and how."
This is one of the fascinations of luxury watches.
Summary
How was it?
・In-house movements certainly embody the "brand's seriousness."
・However, "in-house movement = absolutely superior" is not always true.
・After-sales service and overall quality have a greater impact on long-term value.
・Historically, there are many masterpieces that are not in-house.
What's truly important is not the value derived from being in-house, but rather the "manufacturer's philosophy and craftsmanship." We recommend choosing a watch from an unbiased perspective.
We hope this article has provided you with useful information and sparked your interest in luxury watches! If you have any questions, please feel free to ask us directly. We look forward to your visit and inquiries.
Look forward to the next installment! See you then!
