[2020 Edition] Mechanical Watches "8 Recommended Audemars Piguet Models"

[2020 Edition] Mechanical Watches "8 Recommended Audemars Piguet Models"

Audemars Piguet is considered one of the three biggest luxury watch makers in the world, along with Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin.

Founded in 1875 by Jules-Louis Audemars and Edouard-Auguste Piguet as a movement manufacturing company, Audemars Piguet is one of the few famous luxury watch brands that has remained in the family business to this day. In addition, like Patek Philippe and Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet is one of the few manufacturers that has repaired all of the watches it has produced since its founding.

Speaking of Audemars Piguet, the Royal Oak, designed by Gerald Genta and released in 1972, is extremely famous.

This time, I would like to introduce some recommended current models from Audemars Piguet.

Recommended Model 1: Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin 15202ST.OO.1240ST.01

This is a reissue model commemorating the 40th anniversary of the birth of the "Royal Oak," which can be said to be Audemars Piguet's masterpiece. When I thought about writing a column about Audemars Piguet, this model was the first to come to mind, so I will write about it first without hesitation (lol).

It has the same 39mm case as when it was released in 1972, and is equipped with the same thin automatic caliber "Cal. 2121" as the original model. The 39mm case size was very large at the time, and it was such a shocking debut that it was given the nickname "Jumbo." Despite being a reissue model, it is a modern model that doesn't feel dated, and I think it is an impeccably completed design.

Needless to say, it is very popular. The only flaw is that it is not available at official stores. (laughs) There is no doubt that Patek Philippe's Nautilus and this Royal Oak are the ones that started the trend of blue dial watches.

List price: ￥2,970,000

Recommended model ② CODE11.59 15210CR.OO.A002CR.01

CODE11.59 was announced at SIHH 2019 as the first new collection in about 26 years, following the Royal Oak, Jules Audemars, and Offshore. It took about five years to develop and design, and you can feel the effort that Audemars Piguet put into it.

The CODE11.59 automatic comes in a lineup of six models, with the dials for the 18KWG (white gold) cases coming in gray, gray/black, black and burgundy, while the dials for the 18KPG (pink gold) cases come in purple and blue, offering a rich range of deep colors.

The combination model we are introducing this time has a bi-color 18KWG (white gold) case, with only the middle case (octagonal) made of 18KPG (pink gold), making use of a unique design that makes use of a three-layer case structure. The octagonal middle case sandwiched between the round case is subtly reminiscent of the flagship model Royal Oak. The lugs also use the same screws as the Royal Oak bezel, which is another nice touch. It has been announced that about 20% of the total production will be focused on the production of the CODE11.59, and it seems that they want to position this model as a flagship product on par with the Royal Oak.

[Source][Source] Audemars Piguet

List price: ￥2,640,000

Recommended Model 4: Royal Oak Automatic 15500ST.OO.1220ST.03

The new model for 2019, the ever-popular "Royal Oak 15500ST"

While inheriting the Grand Tapisserie pattern black dial, the indexes have been made thicker to improve visibility. The absence of the AUTOMATIC notation at 6 o'clock on the dial gives this new Royal Oak a different impression from the previous "15400". Another point that has been revamped from the previous model is the new movement "Cal. 4302" developed by Audemars Piguet. The vibration frequency has been improved to 28,800 vibrations, and the power reserve has been improved from 60 hours to 70 hours.

This model has a 41mm case diameter, but compared to the 37mm case of the "15450", you can choose based on your wrist size and preferred fit. The dials are available in blue, gray, black, and silver.

It may be difficult to compare products at an official store, but at Commit Ginza, we are strengthening our purchasing and deposit sales so that customers can compare products.

List price: ￥2,365,000

Recommended Model 5: Royal Oak Chronograph 26331ST.OO.1220ST.03

This is the "26331ST", a model equipped with a chronograph on the Royal Oak, a masterpiece of Audemars Piguet.

This model follows the original design of Gerald Genta in the early 1970s, while combining a sense of luxury and design. The Royal Oak celebrated its 40th anniversary in 2012, and the chronograph model's case size has been increased from 39mm to 41mm. This model uses the automatic Cal.2385, an in-house movement developed to be equipped with a chronograph. The silver combination dial with a grand tapisserie pattern features enlarged chronograph counters at the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions. The combination of an octagonal and three-counter chronograph is frankly cool (sorry for my lack of vocabulary). The dial is available in blue/silver, black/silver, and silver/black.

List price: ￥3,080,000

Recommended Model ⑥ Royal Oak Automatic 15450ST.OO.1256ST.02

This model is the ever-popular Royal Oak with a case size of 37mm.

It uses the Audemars Piguet Cal.3120, and the photo shows a grey dial with a Grande Tapisserie pattern. The balance of the dial and indexes highlights the beauty of the Royal Oak. The Rolex Explorer I 36mm diameter (Ref.14270, Ref.114270) is still very popular, and I think that's because it's the perfect size for the Japanese physique.

For those who find the 41mm Royal Oak too big, the 37mm case diameter is highly recommended. The dial is available in blue, gray, and silver, but it is surprising that there is no black dial.

List price: ￥2,255,000

Recommended Model 7: Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openwork 15407ST.OO.1220ST.01

This is an open-work double balance wheel that is said to have taken approximately five years to complete.

This is the world's first mechanism developed by Audemars Piguet in 2010, and although it was patented in the same year, it was not completed and released as the "15407ST" until 2016. The two balances and hairsprings are set on the same axis, and the hairsprings expand and contract alternately, complementing each other while greatly improving precision and stability. The greatest feature is that the complex movement can be viewed from both the front and back, and although the power reserve is not long at about 45 hours, the movement, which was finished to be "shown off and shown off," is very beautiful.

The production numbers were very small, and it is still a popular and rare model in short supply. However, the current premium price is really amazing. It is also a good model in terms of investment value. By the way, I had a chance to talk to a customer who owns one, and he said that you shouldn't expect good visibility (especially at night) (laughs).

List price: ￥5,885,000

Recommended Model 8: Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 26237ST.OO.1000ST.01

The Royal Oak's 20th anniversary model "Offshore Ref. 25721ST" was announced at Baselworld (formerly the Basel Fair) in 1993.

The last model I would like to introduce is the "Ref. 26237ST," which was announced at SIHH in 2018 and is said to be a nearly faithful reproduction of Emmanuel Guillet's original design.

The Rolex Cellini is a famous watch design by Emmanuel Guillet. He followed the octagonal bezel of Gerald Genta, who brought the well-known Patek Philippe Nautilus, but designed a case size that was astonishingly large for the time. The model was nicknamed "The Beast" because of its size, and there were mixed opinions within Audemars Piguet that it was too big and would not sell, and it is said that Gerald Genta, the designer of the Royal Oak, stormed into the Audemars Piguet booth to yell at it. (laughs)

It's true that the 42mm case diameter and 15mm case thickness give it a powerful presence, and although case diameters are becoming larger nowadays, it must have had a much bigger impact back then. This model made me realize once again how cool the vertical three-counter chronograph is.

*The photo shows the Ref. 25721ST.

List price: ￥3,355,000

summary

What did you think.

Since this is my last column of the year, I decided to feature Audemars Piguet. I'm sorry that it's covered in octagons, but it's cool, so I can't help it! (laughs) Once again, the perfect design of the Royal Oak is wonderful.

Well, 2020 was a difficult year for everyone, with the effects of the coronavirus and the economic situation being tough. But thanks to all of you, we were able to make it to the end of the year safely. Although this is in a column, I would like to express my gratitude once again and pray for the health and happiness of all of you and your loved ones.

Although it's a little early to say this, we hope you will continue to support Commit Ginza in 2021!