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Thumbnail image: Royal Oak 2025 hero shot

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Introduction - The history of innovation in the Octagon

The Royal Oak was introduced in 1972 and is a model that opened up new horizons for luxury sports watches. In 1993, the Royal Oak Offshore, which pursued even greater robustness, was introduced and has continued to appeal to collectors for over 30 years.

Royal Oak 1972 and 2025 comparison

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1. History and Technology

  • 1972: Born with a bold design by Gerald Genta, the “octagon (octagon) + screw fastening”.
  • 1993: The Royal Oak Offshore is released. With a large 42 mm case and 300 m water resistance, which were rare at the time, it was nicknamed "The Beast."
  • 2016: Launch of patented double balance wheel mechanism, achieving both precision and stability.
  • 2024: Annual sales are estimated at CHF 2.38 billion, with shipments of 51,000 bottles, and the brand will maintain its presence as an independent brand.

The double balance wheel is a mechanism that places two balances and a hairspring on the same axis to offset the accuracy error caused by the difference in position. On the exterior side, the skeletonized dial and the active use of high-tech materials such as titanium and ceramics have made it a model that collectors covet.

Double balance wheel diagram

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2. New for 2025 - The impact of "Night Blue, Cloud 50"

The new 2025 models, released on Tuesday, April 1st, feature the brand's signature deep navy color, Night Blue and Cloud 50. All of them feature a lightweight and hard ceramic exterior, with a polished and satin finish that creates a striking contrast in light.

Model Case diameter Thickness material Movement/Power reserve waterproof Tax included price
Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openwork
Reference 15416CD.OO.1225CD.01
41 mm 9.7 mm Ceramic & Titanium Cal.3132/approx. 45 h 5 ATM Please enquire
Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph
Reference 26238CD.OO.1300CD.01
42 mm 15.3 mm Ceramic & Titanium Cal.4404/approx. 70 hours 10 ATM Please enquire
Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph
Ref. 26420SO.OO.A029VE.01
43 mm 14.4 mm Ceramic & SS Cal.4401/approx. 70 h 10 ATM 6,160,000 yen


2025 Royal Oak lineup

3. My First Royal Oak - Q&A for Beginners

  • Q. What is the difference between the Royal Oak and the Royal Oak Offshore?
    A. The Royal Oak Offshore is a sporty model with increased waterproofness and size. Its solid feel and chronograph function are attractive, but if you prefer a thin suit, the Royal Oak is a versatile choice.
  • Q: What is the asset value?
    The average secondary market price over the past five years has been +8% per year. Limited edition colors and rare materials have high liquidity and tend to have higher prices.
  • Q: What about people with small wrists?
    Consider a Royal Oak under 41mm, or a medium 37mm. The short lug-to-lug length means it will feel less bulky than the numbers suggest.

4. A must-see for connoisseurs - the depths of calibers

The "Cal.4401/4404" is a fully in-house developed integrated chronograph with a flyback function. It has a long reserve of約70時間and a highly responsive column wheel, and is considered to be one of the best mass-produced chronographs.

The double balance wheel of "Cal.3132" evens out torque fluctuations while the inertia of the twin balance reduces posture differences. The base plate is skeletonized, allowing you to view the beautifully finished 22K rotor.

5. Market Trends - AP in Numbers

According to a 2024 report by Morgan Stanley x LuxeConsult, Audemars Piguet is expected to achieve estimated sales of CHF 2.38 billion , shipments of 51,000 units , and a retail share of 5%, remaining stable from the previous year.

year Sales (CHF Billion) Shipment Quantity Retail Share
2024 23.8 51,000 5%
2023 23.5 51,000 5%

Ilaria Resta, formerly of P&G, will take over as CEO in 2024. She aims to expand AP House while remaining independent and to achieve "quality-focused growth."

6. Economic Perspective – Exchange Rates and Raw Material Costs

As of 9:00 a.m. on April 28, 2025, the dollar/yen exchange rate was approximately 143.65 yen , and the yen has strengthened since the beginning of the year. Furthermore, the Swiss franc/yen exchange rate is maintaining the high 150 yen range, and the CHF continues to strengthen.

  • Strong yen → domestic list price remains the same but import costs fall. The 43mm Royal Oak Offshore is effectively reduced to 6,160,000 yen.
  • On the other hand, the strong Swiss franc puts pressure on manufacturers' profit margins. This is being closely watched as a factor in future price increases.

7. Future Outlook - Towards the "Beyond Steel" Era

Audemars Piguet CEO Ilaria Resta emphasized "quality over quantity" and announced the deepening of customer experience through AP House . There are also rumors that the results of research into recycled material cases and carbon nanotube bracelets will be introduced in 2026. In terms of movements, we can expect the double balance wheel to be made into a chronograph, and the Royal Oak with a flying tourbillon + minute repeater, which was introduced in the Code 11.59.

Future Royal Oak concept

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summary

The new Royal Oak for 2025 is a symbol of "return to the roots x innovation" that combines the traditional octagon with the latest materials and an original movement. Let's keep a close eye on future economic and exchange trends and follow the direction of the next generation of luxury pioneered by AP.

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