Good evening everyone!
This week, we have a new series, In this new project, we will explain the basics of luxury watches in an easy-to-understand way, for those who are not very familiar with luxury watches and those who want to learn more about them.
This is the fourth time
[ Introduction to Luxury Watches ]: 『 Crown 』
The crown is essential for operating a watch. It has many uses, such as winding the mainspring, adjusting the calendar, and setting the time, but it is also a delicate part that can lead to malfunctions if used incorrectly. In this article, we will introduce the types of crowns that many people do not know about, how to use them correctly, and common malfunctions and how to deal with them.
What is a "crown"?
『 Crown 』 = 「 The main operating part of a watch 」
A "crown" is a part used for the main operations such as "winding the mainspring," "adjusting the calendar," and "setting the time." There are two types: the " pull-out type ," which can be pulled out by simply pulling it with your finger, and the " screw-in type ," which is screwed in to ensure water resistance.
The "pull-out" type is used in many watches, and when it is stiff you can use your fingernails, but be careful not to use too much force as the "crown" will come off.
The "screw-in" type is mainly used in diver's watches, and is literally tightened like a screw, so you need to loosen the screw to open it up when operating it.
The role and usage of the crown
The crown has three important functions: winding the mainspring, adjusting the calendar, and setting the time, as mentioned above. Let's take a look at how to use each of them.
" Winding the mainspring "
"Winding the mainspring" means winding the mainspring , which is the power source of a mechanical watch.
" Pull-out style "
With the crown still pressed in, turn it towards the 12 o'clock position.
" Screw-in type "
First, turn the crown in the screwed-in state to the 6 o'clock direction to release it, then turn it to the 12 o'clock direction. (*Some models have two stages, in which case you should turn it in the first stage.)
Both the "pull-out" and "screw-in" types make a clicking noise when winding. Turning the crown about 30 to 50 times will wind the mainspring sufficiently.
*When a manual winding watch is wound up to its limit, it will reach a "stop winding" state where it will no longer move. If you try to force it to move from this state, the spring will break, so be careful.
" Calendar Adjustment "
For watches with calendar functions such as the date and day of the week, many models are designed so that you can adjust the calendar by pulling the crown out one step. *For some models, you can adjust the time by pulling it out one step and the date by pulling it out two steps.
When adjusting the calendar, make sure the time is not between 8 PM and 4 AM . During this time period, the gears used to change the calendar overlap, which accelerates wear on the gears and increases the risk of malfunction. *If you don't know whether it is "AM" or "PM," adjust it to 6 o'clock, which is not affected by "AM" or "PM."
" Time setting "
When "setting the time," most models require the crown to be pulled out to its full extent (most are in the second position). Watches with a hack function have the convenient feature of stopping the second hand when the crown is pulled out , so turn the crown in that state until you reach the desired time. The direction in which you turn the crown will vary depending on the brand and model, but you should always move the hands clockwise. Be careful not to continue moving the hands counterclockwise, as this may cause a malfunction.
Common crown problems and how to fix them
The crown is the most frequently used part of a watch, but it is also the part that is most likely to malfunction. Here we will introduce some common malfunctions and how to deal with them.
" The crown is stiff and spins freely ."
If the crown is stiff and difficult to move, the internal parts that connect to the crown may be damaged. If the damage is left unattended, it will affect other parts, so please have it repaired as soon as possible.
Also, if you feel like the mainspring is " spinning freely " even though you are winding it, the spring may have broken. This also needs to be replaced, so please have the watch repaired.
" The crown won't return to its original position ."
If the crown does not return to its original position , it is often due to dirt or dust clogging it. In more serious cases, there may be a problem with the crown itself or axis (damage or distortion) that has caused it to stop moving, or if it is a "screw-in" type, the threads may be corroded. In either case, inspection and repair are necessary, so in this case too, please request a repair.
" The crown has fallen out ."
If the crown falls out , there are two possible scenarios: 1. Only the crown falls out, or 2. The crown and the winding core (thin core) fall out together.
In either case, do not try to force it back into the watch, but keep it as it is and have it repaired. In particular, the end of the "winding core" is directly connected to the drive part of the watch, so if you try to force it back in, you run the risk of damaging the internal mechanism.
We have explained some common crown problems and how to deal with them , but all of these solutions are I hope you understand that you should ask a professional repairer to fix it . The crown is a part that plays an important role.
summary
We have explained the role and usage of the crown. What do you think?
The crown plays a major role in operating a watch, such as winding the mainspring, adjusting the calendar, and setting the time, and is one of the most frequently used parts. We hope that you will learn how to use it correctly and take good care of your beloved watch.
I hope that by reading this article, even one more person will become interested in luxury watches.
see you!