Good evening everyone!
From the end of March to the beginning of April, the watch industry was abuzz with the announcement of new products from various brands, including "Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022." Commit Ginza (hereinafter referred to as our store) also introduced them in columns and on YouTube, and received a lot of feedback.
Among them, the brand that attracted the most attention was Rolex. This time, we will introduce the most popular model from Rolex.
"GMT-Master II"
*In addition to the new green and black bezel, it is also available in left-handed version
We would like to take a closer look at this model, focusing on the GMT Master. In Part 1, we will look at the GMT Master, and in Part 2, we will look at the GMT Master II. The man who talks about the GMT Master at our store is the man himself! Our appraiser, Tsubasa Nemoto, aka Nemochi, will be introducing the model.
⇩⇩If you want to know more about Nemochi's love for the GMT Master⇩⇩
What is the GMT Master?
The high-performance model "GMT Master" uses a 24-hour hand to instantly know the time zones of different areas, and can keep track of two time zones, while the "GMT Master II" can keep track of three time zones. The distinctive two-tone bezel, starting with the red and blue bezel, makes this a very attractive model that is different from other models.
The Genealogy of the GMT-Master
"Ref.6542" Production period: 1955-1959
In the 1950s, Pan American World Airways (Pan Am) was expanding its route network all over the world. The pilots operating its international passenger flights were looking for a watch that could keep track of two time zones.
And so, in 1955, Seiko commissioned Rolex, which was garnering attention at the time with the release of the Explorer and Submariner, to develop a wristwatch for pilots, and the first GMT-Master, Ref. 6542, was born.
By adding the unprecedented concept of "time difference" to the rotating bezel, they were able to realize a mechanism that allows users to keep track of two time zones by making full use of the "24-hour hand" and "24-hour bezel." In response to requests from wealthy people who enjoy traveling abroad, they also developed a solid gold model, the "Ref. 6542/8," which also established its status.
*The white dial of the "Ref. 6542" manufactured for executives of "Pan American World Airways" in 1958
The most distinctive part of the "Ref. 6542," the Bakelite bezel, had durability issues, so it was changed to an aluminum material in later production models.
The "Ref. 6542" equipped with a "Bakelite bezel" had an extremely short production period, making it extremely difficult to find a good-condition example today, making it highly sought-after.
"Ref.1675" Production period: 1959-1979
The long-selling model "Ref.1675" has been produced for 20 years since its birth. The changes from the previous model "Ref.6542" are that the bezel is now made entirely of aluminum and that it has a crown guard to enhance durability.
During the 20 years that it was manufactured, it underwent various minor changes, and enthusiasts are thrilled by the minute details, such as the "circle mirror dial," "mirror dial," and "matte dial" that were available in the early lots, as well as the subdivision of the hands and bezel.
Like the first generation, there is also a solid gold model, "Ref. 1675/8."
*Ref.1675/8 without crown guard
The stainless steel model "Ref. 1675" comes with a crown guard, but the initial production run of the "Ref. 1675/8" used a case without a crown guard.
Due to a later minor change, it now comes with a crown guard, but the basic design remains the same as the previous model, Ref. 6542/8, and it comes with two bracelet types, the Oyster bracelet (3-link) and the Jubilee bracelet (5-link), making it a popular model with a more luxurious feel.
In the late 1960s, the first combination model of the GMT-Master, the Ref. 1675/3, was born.
There are two dial lineups: a matte brown and a black. The brown dial is a calm brown like chocolate color, and matches very well with the brown and gold of the bezel, and is still very popular today.
* "Ref.1675/3" black dial
"Ref.16750" Production period: 1980-1988
The third generation 5-digit model "GMT Master" "Ref.16750", which was manufactured for about 8 years, has the same basic design as "Ref.1675", but the movement has been changed to "Cal.3075". Compared to the "Cal.1570" installed in the previous model "Ref.1675", the high beat specification has improved accuracy.
Another notable feature was the quick-change calendar mechanism, which greatly improved its practicality. This made the watch extremely popular.
* "Ref.16753" Barnacle Index
Following on from the previous model, the combination model "Ref. 16753" will also be available with a black or brown dial.
The early models had an up-ride index, commonly known as the "Fujitsubo", but this model has not been seen since. Currently, there is a high demand for this model due to the low availability.
"Ref.16700" Production period: 1988-2000
The final model of the GMT Master, the Ref. 16700, which was produced over a period of approximately 12 years, retained the basic design while evolving into a more modern wristwatch.
The crystal has been changed from plastic to sapphire crystal, and the indexes have been given a metal frame, making the appearance (exterior) update even more noticeable. Later production models also feature Luminova luminous material, making for more practical improvements.
In addition, while there were solid gold and two-tone models up until the previous model, the fourth-generation GMT-Master is only available in stainless steel models. The reason for this is that the GMT-Master II had already been born, and the solid gold and two-tone models had already been replaced.
★"GMT Master" and "Chuck Yeager"
Chuck Yeager is an indispensable figure when talking about the GMT Master. He is the great pilot who was the first in the world to break the sound barrier.
He flew in a fighter jet called the "XS-1" and reached the Mach speed limit on his ninth attempt. His record of Mach 1.06 was the first in human history, and the watch he was wearing at the time was a Rolex Oyster Perpetual that he had purchased himself.
On October 14, 1997, 50 years after that memorable day when he broke the sound barrier, he attempted the sound barrier again.
On this occasion, he was wearing a specially made Chuck Yeager GMT-Master model, which was made by Rolex in tribute to him.
After that, "The Real McCoy's" released a limited number of Rolex x Chuck Yeager double-branded models. (Note: This is not officially recognized by Rolex.)
"GMT Master" "Ref.16700" Red/Blue Bezel and Black/Black Bezel 50 pieces each
"GMT Master II" "Ref. 16710" black/red bezel 50 pieces
In 1999, a second model was released with minor changes such as a different engraving on the back cover, and 150 of each model were manufactured and sold. These days, they are very rare models that are rarely seen on the market.
*We also have the red and blue bezel "Chuck Yeager" on display in our store. If you are interested, please come and visit us.
summary
What did you think of our in-depth look at the GMT-Master?
The long-selling model "GMT Master", which was released in 1955 and continued until around 2000, has a long history, and the more you dig into it, the more intriguing it becomes. In the next article, we will take a deeper look at the "GMT Master II", so please look forward to it.
Once again, I hope that after reading this article, even one more person will become interested in the GMT-Master!
see you!