Commit TV Yagi Column ~The History and Appeal of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak~

In recent years, the popularity of luxury sports watches has been increasing day by day, and Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak is said to be the origin of this trend. It has a long history and has overturned many conventional wisdom to establish its current status as a top model.

This time, we would like to talk about the history and appeal of the Royal Oak , as well as introduce the wonderful models currently available at Commit Ginza.

The History of Audemars Piguet

When talking about the Royal Oak , we cannot proceed without knowing the history of the brand. By the way, I have written in detail about Audemars Piguet in the past, so I will write briefly this time.

Founded in 1875, Audemars Piguet began its history as a movement manufacturing company by Jules-Louis Audemars and Edouard-Auguste Piguet.

Seventeen years later, in 1892, they released the world's first minute repeater wristwatch, and then they began producing their own brand of watches with various complicated mechanisms, such as tourbillons and moon phases, which helped to expand their recognition. Since then, they have become known as one of the "Three Great Watches in the World," and their recognition has continued to grow.

Audemars Piguet is also known as the only brand that has never been interrupted by an interruption in its history as a family-run brand, and is a prestigious watch brand that continues to carry on its traditions to this day.

The History of the Royal Oak

Next, I would like to talk about the history of the Royal Oak .

The flagship model of Audemars Piguet , the Royal Oak , is said to be the first in the world to use stainless steel as a material in 1972, which had a major impact on the watch industry. The appearance of the first Royal Oak, the Ref. 5402ST, gave birth to a new genre called luxury sports watches, and there is no doubt that other brands were greatly influenced by it.

Let's take a look at an example of a luxury sports watch from another brand that was released after the Royal Oak was released.

・1972 Audemars Piguet: "Royal Oak"
・1975 Girard-Perregaux: "Laureato"
・1976 Patek Philippe: "Nautilus"
1977 Vacheron Constantin: 222 (the model that became the basis for the Overseas)

It's obvious at a glance. These are all models that are currently leading the watch industry.

And the person who should be noted here is the designer, Mr. Gerald Genta . There is no need to mention it now, but he is known as the Picasso of the watch world, and he designed three of the models mentioned above, excluding the Laureato.

*Commit TV has previously broadcast a program about Gerald Genta, so if you haven't seen it yet, be sure to check it out.

Origin of the name "Royal Oak"

During the battles of the English Puritan Revolution, Prince Charles (Charles II) is said to have hidden himself under this oak tree to evade his pursuers. This oak tree, later named the "Royal Oak," marked the beginning of the King's recovery from the throne, and came to symbolize protection, safety, and power for England. To commemorate this event, the Royal Navy built a warship named the "HMS Royal Oak." One of these ships featured an oak hull reinforced with steel plates and octagonal portholes.

Of course, you may think that this is the basis for the current Royal Oak , but in fact it is not. You may be wondering what I have explained so far, but please forgive me (laughs).

Later, designer Gerald Genta

"The design was inspired by the window in a diving helmet, and involved attaching an octagonal bezel to the case with screws."

He said:

This is the truth behind the origins of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak .

The appeal of the Royal Oak

① Tapestry Dial

The tapestry dial is a distinctive feature of the Royal Oak .

The elaborate tapestry dial is formed from two layers of guilloche engraving, giving it an attractive, three-dimensional finish.

Nowadays, when it comes to tapestry dials, most people probably immediately think of the Royal Oak .

②Octagonal case

As mentioned above, the octagonal case and eight screws embedded in the bezel , from which the name "Royal Oak" comes, are the very symbols of this model.

The bezel's edge design looks extremely sharp, and the screws that reach all the way through to the back cover ensure robust waterproofing. Everything about this watch is impeccable, and it's truly an impressive piece of work.

Also, at the time, it had a stylish, slim design measuring just 8mm thick, yet was waterproof to a depth of 50m, which speaks to the greatness of the Royal Oak .

③Bracelet

The bracelet, which I will talk about next, is also an important element that embodies a luxury sports watch. The bracelet of the Royal Oak is integrated with the case, and is made up of seven different types of links, which give it a comfortable fit that conforms to the wrist.

The attention to detail, such as the polished hairline and chamfered corners of the connection parts, is what attracts people to it.

Top-quality models available at Commit Ginza

Now that we have talked about the history and appeal of the Royal Oak , we would like to introduce some of the finest models. I hope you will be further drawn into the charm of the Royal Oak (laughs).

① "Royal Oak" Jumbo SS Ref.5402ST

The first one we would like to introduce is the first-generation Royal Oak, Ref. 5402.

This model was born as the world's first stainless steel luxury sports watch and became the foundation of the Royal Oak . It is commonly called "Jumbo" because of its 39mm case diameter, which was large at the time. It also features Jaeger-LeCoultre's ultra-thin movement "Cal. 2121," achieving a design that is only 8mm thick.

Currently, there are very few units on the market, making this a very rare model. Moreover, this is a wonderful model with a good condition case and bracelet, all tritium luminous material, and no hands have been replaced. The one and only first generation "Royal Oak" that also has vintage elements can be fully enjoyed, and is a model that we can truly recommend.

Sales price: ¥11,880,000- (tax included)

② "Royal Oak" Extra-thin SS Ref.15202ST.OO.1240ST.01.A

Next, we will introduce a reissue of the "Ref. 5402." This was made to commemorate the 40th anniversary of the birth of the "Royal Oak."

The stunningly beautiful, ultra-thin movement visible through the see-through case back is the same "Cal. 2121" as the original. Considering that it is still in use after 50 years, you can see just how famous a caliber it was. Although it is a current model, it is almost impossible to find it in a boutique, and it is traded at a high price on the second-hand market.

This is a beautiful item with almost no signs of use, so if you are looking for one, please contact us as soon as possible.

Sales price: ¥11,880,000- (tax included)

③ "Royal Oak" Double Balance Wheel Openwork SS 15407ST.OO.1220ST.01

The Royal Oak is a superb model that took about five years to be released after Audemars Piguet developed the double balance wheel mechanism in 2010. Double balance wheel openwork Ref.15407ST.OO.1220ST.01".

As the model name suggests, the movement "Cal.3132" uses a double balance wheel, with two balances and hairsprings set on the same axis. This mechanism provides stability and precision by repeatedly expanding and contracting the balance and hairspring in alternation. The striking skeleton dial is highly designed and has the power to make you feel at a glance that this is an exceptional watch. With only a small production run, its popularity is increasing year by year, and the market price is also extremely high. (Laughs)

Be sure to take a look at the double balance wheel, which combines the most complex design and functionality of any Royal Oak watch .

The items currently available at Commit Ginza are in pristine condition, almost like new.

Sales price: ¥17,985,000- (tax included)

summary

What did you think.

The Royal Oak will continue to be one of the leading luxury sports watches and will continue to reign as a universal model. The market price has been rising year by year, but has recently shown a rapid increase.

The Royal Oak is the symbol of the brand.
I would like to get my hands on one someday too.

If you are interested, it might be a good idea to grab it before it becomes even more out of reach. If that happens, please contact Commit Ginza.

see you!