What do you look for when choosing a mechanical watch?

Many people would probably answer "design," "functionality," and "asset value." Of course, appearance and resale value are very important points, but by increasing your knowledge and understanding of the historical background of brands and models, minor changes over the years, and other factors, you will likely come to love watches even more and enjoy the fun of choosing one. In this column, we will provide as much information as possible about mechanical watches to both beginners and advanced watchers, and will provide a thorough analysis and explanation to help you choose a watch.

This time, we will be focusing on the Rolex GMT-Master Ref. 16753 and Ref. 16758, so be sure to read to the end.

Third-generation GMT-Master Ref. 16753 and Ref. 16758

When talking about the GMT-Master of the 1980s, it is essential to mention the third generation, Ref. 16753 (Rolesor) and Ref. 16758 (yellow gold).
This semi-vintage model embodies the charm of the GMT, with case lines unique to this era, a parts configuration that makes lavish use of gold, and a unique classic feel represented by the "barnacle" indexes.

This time, we will thoroughly explain these two models, including the differences in appearance due to the different materials, parts specifications, and dial variations.

Basic specifications

[Ref.16753 (SS/YG)]

Production period: 1980-1988 Case diameter: 40mm
Crystal: Plastic Bezel: Aluminum 24-hour display insert Bracelet: 78363/62523H
Movement: Cal.3075
Waterproof performance: 100m

[Ref. 16758 (18KYG)]

Production period: 1980-1988 Case diameter: 40mm
Crystal: Sapphire crystal Bezel: Aluminum insert Bracelet: 7206/8, 6311/8, 8386/8
Movement: Cal.3075
Waterproof performance: 100m


Dial

■ Reference 16753

The "Ref. 16753" was available in two colors: black and brown. Each color perfectly matches the gold of the Rolesor, creating completely different looks despite being made of the same material.

Black Dial

A classic finish with a glossy lacquer black finish and gold-rimmed metal-framed indexes.
In the early days, the Fujitsubo index was used, and its rounded, three-dimensional shape was a major attraction.

Brown Dial

A deep reddish brown. The color changes depending on the angle of the light, giving it a unique 80s vibe.
In later years, some specimens have taken on a tropical appearance, making them highly sought after in the vintage market.

■ Reference 16758

The "Ref. 16758" is also available in two colors: black and brown.

The glossy brown color changes its appearance dramatically depending on how the light hits it, and it has a splendor that matches the presence of the solid gold case.
Many barnacle indexes can be seen, strongly retaining the powerful atmosphere unique to YG Sports from the 1980s.

Additionally, both the "Ref. 16753" and "Ref. 16758" are also available in RG (8 diamond/3 ruby ​​index) models, with a champagne gold dial.


needle

The hands of both references are uniformly yellow gold.

-Hour, minute and second hands are gold -GMT hand is a large triangle -Luminous material is tritium (T<25)

It has a strong sense of unity with the gold-rimmed indexes, and you can also enjoy the warm discoloration that is typical of vintage watches.

bezel

■ Reference 16753

As is typical of Rolesor, it comes in two colors: black and brown-gold.

black

- A bold and firm impression - The gold color of the index stands out

Brown gold

・Soft brown and gold color ・The most popular color that symbolizes "Ref. 16753"

*Brown is only available in Rolesor.

■ Reference 16758

The solid gold "Ref. 16758" is paired with a black and brown bezel.

・Highly consistent with the YG case ・Gold numerals and engravings for excellent visibility ・A perfect color scheme that perfectly matches the dial and color

This is one of the most spectacular bezel configurations among the sports Rolexes of the 1980s.

bracelet

■ Reference 16753

Both Jubilee and Oyster are available.

・Jubilee: 62523H
・Oyster: 78363

The center links are all yellow and gold, and the brilliance they create when lit is unique to this era.

■ Reference 16758

The focus is on solid gold Jubilee.

・Rivet: 7206/8
Jubilee: 6311/8
・Jubilee (Concealed): 8386/8

It has the weightiness of solid gold and good flexibility, making it extremely soft to wear.

buckle

Both "Ref.16753" and "Ref.16758" are primarily single lock watches.
The Jubilee is also available in a concealed type, giving it a more dressy feel.

The buckle width and edge finish are simple and sturdy, reminiscent of the 1980s, allowing you to enjoy the presence of the material as it is.

Movement

■Cal.3075

Both models are equipped with the "Cal.3075".

-Has hacking function -Quick change date -High beat (28,800 vibrations)
- Equipped with GMT function

Due to its practicality and ease of maintenance, it is one of the most reliable movements in vintage Rolex watches.

summary

Rolesor "Ref. 16753" and solid gold "Ref. 16758".
Both are symbols of the GMT-Master from the 1980s, and retain the high-quality "soft gold atmosphere" and "vintage three-dimensionality" that are not found in current models.

Should I tighten it up with black or add some individuality with brown?
The greatest appeal of these two models is that they show completely different looks depending on the combination of materials and dials.

This is a masterpiece that represents semi-vintage Rolex, combining the elegance of Rolesor and gold models with the functional beauty of the GMT-Master.

If you are interested in any of the watches, please take this opportunity to register your interest (request for restock).

監修者のプロフィール

コミット銀座のロゴ

コミット銀座

2015年の会社設立以来、"高く買い、安く売る"をモットーに、顧客第一主義を徹底。価格面におけるメリットのみならず、お客様が安心して買い物出来る環境づくり、お客様に最適な時計の提案も実現。
徐々にお客様からの信頼も得て、多くの顧客様を抱えることに成功。高い知識を要するヴィンテージロレックスや、パテックフィリップを始めとするハイエンド商材の取り扱いを得意とする、新進気鋭の高級腕時計専門店。

時計解体新書