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What do you look for when choosing a mechanical watch?
Many people would probably answer "design," "functionality," and "asset value." Of course, appearance and resale value are very important points, but by increasing your knowledge and understanding of the historical background of brands and models, minor changes over the years, and other factors, you will likely come to love watches even more and enjoy the fun of choosing one. In this column, we will provide as much information as possible about mechanical watches to both beginners and advanced watchers, and will provide a thorough analysis and explanation to help you choose a watch.
This time, we will be focusing on the Rolex Submariner Ref. 116618, 116619, 126618, and 126619, so be sure to read to the end.
4th Generation Submariner Ref. 116618LB・LN / 116619LB
The Ref. 116618, released in 2008, is a yellow gold model belonging to the fourth generation of Submariner Date. This solid gold model, which preceded the stainless steel model, boasted significant improvements in functionality and durability, including increased rigidity of the case and bracelet, and the introduction of a Cerachrom bezel.
"Ref. 116619LB" is the first model in the series made of white gold and is available only in blue.
Basic specifications : Year of manufacture: 2008-2020 Case: 40mm
Material: 18KYG/18KWG
Bezel: Cerachrom unidirectional rotating bezel Water resistance: 300m
Movement: Cal.3135
Dial
The "Ref. 116618LB" was originally released with a matte blue dial, but around 2013 it underwent a minor change to a sunray blue dial.
Matte dial (diamond index)
Sunray Dial
The "Ref. 116618LN" has been equipped with a lacquered black dial from the beginning to the end of production. The indexes and hands have been enlarged, a feature known as a "maxi dial," which greatly improves visibility.
Black lacquer dial
"Ref. 116619LB" has had a matte blue lacquered dial from the beginning to the end of production.
〇Matte dial
This model features a new Chromalight luminous material. There are also luxury models with diamond indices.
bezel
The Cerachrom insert is scratch-resistant and virtually resistant to fading over time. The gold graduations are PVD-coated for durability and aesthetic appeal.
Movement
It is equipped with the "Cal. 3135," a classic caliber that has supported Rolex since 1988 and is known for its outstanding reliability and stability.
Fifth Generation Submariner Ref. 126618LB・LN / 126619LB
The fifth-generation Submariner was released in 2020. The case size has increased from the previous 40mm to 41mm, and the caliber has also evolved significantly, with the latest "Cal. 3235" installed.
Basic specifications
Year of manufacture: Around 2020
Case: 41mm
Material: 18KYG/18KWG
Bezel: Cerachrom unidirectional rotating bezel Water resistance: 300m
Movement: Cal.3235
Dial
Sunray dial "Ref.126618LB"
Black lacquer dial "Ref. 126618LN"
Black lacquer dial "Ref. 126619LB"
The yellow gold "Ref. 126618LB" features a sunray blue finish, while the "Ref. 126618LN" features a black lacquer finish. The white gold "Ref. 126619LB" has been changed to a black dial. The indexes and hands continue to feature a maxi dial design, combining impact and visibility. The luminous material is Chromalight, so visibility remains at the same high level as the previous generation.
To distinguish it from the previous model, look for the crown mark between the SWISS MADE logo at 6 o'clock on the dial, which indicates the "Ref. 126618" or "Ref. 126619." Additionally, the blue dial has been changed from gold lettering to white lettering.
bezel
The blue/black Cerachrom bezel is highly scratch-resistant and features brilliantly engraved gold graduations thanks to the PVD coating.
Movement
Equipped with the new Chronergy escapement, the Cal. 3235 offers excellent magnetic and shock resistance, and boasts a power reserve of approximately 70 hours.
summary
What did you think?
Both models transcend the concept of "Submariner = tool watch" and represent the pinnacle of luxury and practicality. The solid gold model in particular is a masterpiece that offers the satisfaction of ownership and an overwhelming presence. Recommended for those who desire a slightly different feel and appearance than stainless steel.
See you in the next column!
See you next time!!
