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Good evening, everyone!
This column discusses mechanical watches from an engineer's perspective. For our fifth installment, we will be discussing:
"Water resistance of wristwatches"
We'll talk about this topic.
"Water" and "humidity" are problematic for high-precision instruments like luxury watches. It's crucial to have the right knowledge to enjoy your watch, as it can break even from slight exposure to water. This time, I'd like to explain wristwatch water resistance in detail. I hope you'll take this opportunity to learn about the various types of water resistance!
Types of water-resistant watches
This time, I will explain wristwatch water resistance by dividing it into five main categories. Generally, dress watches tend to have low water resistance, while sports watches tend to have high water resistance.
Non-water-resistant
※1970s Rolex "Cellini"
As the name suggests, this refers to the absence of water-resistant features. While non-water-resistant models are rare among recent watches, they are common in vintage watches, requiring caution against moisture from rain or sweat even during daily use.
Even Rolex, known for its water-resistant watches, had non-water-resistant models in its 'Cellini' collection several decades ago.
Although some vintage watches come with water resistance, many units that haven't been properly maintained by the manufacturer may not fulfill their function due to aging. Therefore, it's generally best to assume that vintage watches are "non-water-resistant."
3 ATM water resistance (daily life water resistance)
※A. Lange & Söhne "Lange 1"
Watches with 3 ATM water resistance can withstand water pressure up to a depth of 30m in a static state. Also known as "daily life water resistance," this feature is used in various watches regardless of price range. While they offer basic water resistance, making them fine for rain or splashes when washing hands, they should not be directly submerged in water, such as when doing dishes or swimming in a pool.
Also, it's a recent development that, starting in 2024, Patek Philippe standardized the water resistance rating of its flagship models like the 'Nautilus' and 'Aquanaut' to "30m (3 ATM)." I will quote Patek Philippe's press release below:
"Provides clear and easy-to-understand information regarding the daily activities customers can perform while wearing their watches, including hand washing, showering, bathing, swimming, other water activities, and diving up to 30m. This closely matches actual usage conditions."
Interpreting this, it seems the water resistance of models like the Nautilus hasn't decreased; rather, Patek Philippe has adjusted the previously confusing water resistance markings to reflect actual usage conditions. It's safe to assume they possess a significantly high level of water resistance, capable of withstanding diving up to 30m.
10 ATM water resistance (enhanced daily life water resistance)
※Grand Seiko "SLGH005"
Watches with 10 ATM water resistance are also known as "enhanced daily life water resistance," capable of handling not only water-related chores but also marine sports such as yachting.
※【Rolex】『Yacht-Master』"Ref.116622"
They are equipped with enough water resistance to withstand moderately strong splashes in rivers or pools, but it is recommended to take them off when swimming, as high water pressure could damage them. However, based on my experience, Rolex watches with a 100m water resistance rating have a high level of water resistance, enough that they won't break from a casual swim.
Also, if exposed to seawater, gaskets can deteriorate or cases can rust, so it is important to rinse them thoroughly with tap water after use.
Air diving water resistance
※Blancpain Fifty Fathoms
Watches with air diving water resistance, also known as "Type 1 diving watches," are designed for diving with air tanks to depths of about 100m to 300m. They feature pressure resistance up to the indicated depth and water resistance for prolonged underwater use. They are characterized by devices such as rotating bezels necessary for measuring dive time and decompression time. While used for shallow water diving (such as scuba diving), they cannot be used for saturation diving.
※【Rolex】『Submariner Date』 "Ref.126610LN"
Watches with air diving water resistance are called "diver's watches," and due to their design, many people choose them as a fashion item. Nowadays, they don't look out of place with a suit; on the contrary, their ruggedness creates a "sophisticated" impression, making them extremely popular.
Saturation diving water resistance
※【Omega】『Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep』 "Ref.
Saturation diving watches, which boast the highest water resistance, can withstand diving to depths of 1,000m or more and are also known as "Type 2 diving watches (for saturation diving)." They often feature functions useful for diving, such as unidirectional rotating bezels and helium escape valves.
Recently, models like the OMEGA Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep, with 6,000m water resistance but without a helium escape valve, have also appeared, showcasing advancements in technology.
※【Rolex】『Sea-Dweller Deepsea』
Considering how many people in the world actually perform saturation diving, this level of specification is overkill for most. However, many people still choose these watches for the peace of mind derived from their overwhelming functionality, their thick cases, and designs that appeal to a man's sensibilities, such as the helium escape valve.
Beware of water ingress
The primary cause of failure in water-resistant watches is overconfidence in their "functionality."
"It's 100m water resistant, so it's okay to wash the watch with water."
"It's a diver's watch, so it's fine to jump into a pool with it."
Many people probably think this way, but the truth is, just because a watch is water-resistant doesn't mean it's safe to use it at any depth below a certain limit. Water can enter if the water pressure exceeds the specifications, and if the crown is not properly closed, the intended water resistance will not be achieved, so caution is necessary.
You might have experienced fogging in your watch after washing it with water, and the cause of this can be the force of the water from the faucet. A 100m water-resistant watch can withstand the water pressure generated when slowly diving to 100m, but the water pressure from a forcefully running faucet can sometimes exceed that. Even if you think, "I just washed it with water...", you might be unknowingly applying pressure beyond the watch's specifications.
Fogging indicates that water has entered the movement, and in this case, an overhaul is necessary. To keep your watch in good condition and extend its lifespan, preventing moisture from entering the watch is crucial.
・Make sure to tightly close screw-down crowns, valves, etc.
・Undergo regular overhauls and replace worn parts such as gaskets.
・Handle with care.
Please handle your watch with these points in mind.
Summary
As you've learned, there are many types of water-resistant watches, and even with the same 30m water resistance rating, the actual water resistance can vary significantly between manufacturers. Always make sure to check if the watch you're looking for has water resistance suitable for your intended use before purchasing.
Also, if you're serious about watches, I recommend learning basic knowledge about their functions, not just water resistance.
I hope this article provides valuable information and sparks a bit more interest in luxury watches! If you have any questions, please feel free to ask us directly. We look forward to your visit and inquiries.
Stay tuned for the next installment! See you then!
