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Good evening everyone!
This column talks about mechanical watches from an engineer's point of view. This is the 16th installment.
"For those who are unsure about vintage watches"
I will talk about this topic.
Even if people are interested in vintage watches, they are often thought to be difficult to handle and difficult to get their hands on.
There are probably many people who are hesitant to take the first step because there are many things they don't understand, such as the differences between models, price differences, and things to be careful of when using them.
But as someone who owns and wears several vintage watches, I can tell you there's no need to be afraid - if you keep a few things in mind, you'll feel much closer to them.
As you gain a deeper understanding, you will become even more fascinated with the charm of vintage watches.
What is a Vintage Watch?
Old wristwatches were often called "antique watches" in the past. Generally, the word "antique" refers to something that has been manufactured for over 100 years, but in fact, wristwatches only have a history of a little over 100 years. As a result, there are almost no wristwatches that fit this description, and for the sake of convenience, watches made before the 1970s are now called "antiques" in order to distinguish them from older items.
Recently, watches that are more than 30 years old are often referred to as "vintage", and the term "semi-vintage" has become popular for watches made in the 1980s and 1990s, which are between current and vintage models.
The Appeal of Vintage Watches
① Unique taste
Even if it is the same model, each individual watch has a different look depending on the path it has traveled, and this gives it its unique appeal, which is the greatest charm of "vintage" watches.
For example, even if it is a 50-year-old watch, if it has been stored on a shelf and never been used, it is treated as valuable dead stock (unused goods). This has the added value of being able to enjoy the beauty of a new product with a design that does not exist in current products.
On the other hand, Submariners from several decades ago and other watches that were used for practical purposes often have scratches and fading on the bezel, giving them a unique look. This kind of coolness is also one of the attractive points of vintage watches.
They are one-of-a-kind items with what is commonly called "flavor," and people who like vintage clothing tend to choose these types of items.
②Wide range of prices and values
Many people probably have the impression that vintage watches are expensive.
It is true that only premium items are featured in magazines, but considering the high prices and premium status of current products, these are basically second-hand items and can be purchased relatively reasonably.
Taking Rolex as an example, there are some models that are traded at premium prices, such as the extremely popular Daytona and Explorer, but the vast majority of common models, such as the Datejust and Air King, can be purchased at prices far lower than current models.
For example, if you want to buy a current Datejust, you would need at least 1 million yen. However, if you are looking for a vintage Datejust, you can buy one for around 500,000 or 600,000 yen.
The first Rolex I bought was the Air-King Ref. 5500. Twenty years ago, the price was about 100,000 yen. It was not expensive, but it was a memorable piece that made me feel the quality of Rolex and vintage watches.
Of course, specifications and performance differ greatly between the vintage era and today, so a simple comparison cannot be made, but based on what we've discussed so far, vintage watches may be one of your options when purchasing a luxury watch on a limited budget.
Handling Precautions
That said, I often hear people ask, "How should I handle vintage watches?"
Of course, there are some aspects of vintage watches that require careful handling, but there is no need to be as nervous as you might think, and with just these few "careful considerations" you can enjoy vintage watches in your daily life, so it's well worth knowing.
In this section, we will tell you about the precautions you should take when handling vintage watches.
① Be careful with water
The first thing to be careful of is not to get it wet.
This is true even for diver's watches. Even for current models, it may be recommended that the manufacturer check the waterproofing once every one or two years. For vintage watches, if the watch has not been recently maintained by the manufacturer and passed a thorough waterproofing test, it is safe to assume that the watch no longer retains the waterproofing it had at the time.
The key is to avoid getting it wet, so by being careful about "rain" and "hand washing" in your daily life, you should be able to prevent water from getting in. Also, it may be best to avoid using it in climates where you sweat a lot.
②Be careful of impacts
Watches are precision instruments, so even current models are not resistant to shock. Avoid hitting or dropping them, as well as activities that subject your wrist to strong impacts, such as batting in a baseball game or swinging in golf.
Also, it is best to avoid riding motorcycles as they can cause a surprising amount of shock to your wrists.
By the way, if a watch has been subjected to a large impact, even if there is no change in the exterior, the internal mechanism may be seriously damaged. Shake the watch lightly to check for abnormal noises and significant deviations in accuracy (it is best to check the accuracy by the average daily rate over a week).
3. Be careful of magnetism
Nowadays, thanks to the evolution of materials, there are models that are resistant to magnetism, but except for special models, you should avoid placing your watch close to strong magnetism. This is because it can affect the balance spring, a part that controls precision. Please note that vintage watches are particularly sensitive to magnetism.
In everyday life, you should be careful not to store your watch near objects that emit strong magnetism, such as smartphones, earphones, electronic devices, or magnets in bags, and it is recommended that you keep your watch at least 5 cm away from any magnetic source.
If your watch suddenly becomes out of sync, there is a good chance that it may have become magnetized. However, even if it does become magnetized, there is a procedure called "demagnetization," so first consult the store where you purchased the watch.
④ Don't forget to clean it after use 
This is recommended regardless of whether the item is vintage or current, but be sure to take care of it after use.
You don't need to do anything special. Just wipe off the sweat and oils that accumulate when you use it with a soft cloth. We also recommend that you regularly brush out any dirt that gets into the gaps with a soft, dry toothbrush.
Sebum and dirt can cause rust and lead to deterioration and damage to parts. Keeping your watch clean is also good for the wearer's skin, so give it a quick cleaning after use. We also recommend that you request an exterior cleaning at the same time as overhauling your watch. This will also clean areas that are usually difficult to clean, such as the inside of the bezel and gaps around the push buttons.
summary
What did you think?
Many people may be hesitant to purchase a vintage watch because it seems like a difficult undertaking, but the things you need to be aware of are not that different from current models.
I think it's fun to start with relatively inexpensive items without worrying too much. Let's get into the vintage swamp together. (laughs)
We hope that this article has been useful to you and has piqued your interest in luxury watches! If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us directly and we will answer them thoroughly. We look forward to your visit and inquiries.
Look forward to the next one! See you next time!
