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Good evening, everyone!
This column discusses mechanical watches from an engineer's perspective. For the 16th installment, we will be discussing
"For Those Hesitant About Vintage Watches."
This will be our theme.
Vintage watches often seem difficult to handle and intimidating, even for those who are interested. Many people might find themselves unable to take the plunge due to a lack of understanding regarding differences in models, price variations, and handling precautions.
However, speaking as someone who owns and regularly wears several vintage watches, there's no need to be afraid. If you keep a few key points in mind, they will undoubtedly feel much more accessible.
And as you deepen your understanding, I believe you will become even more captivated by the charm of vintage watches.
What are vintage watches?
Old watches were often referred to as "antique watches." Generally, the term "antique" refers to items that are more than 100 years old, but the history of wristwatches is only a little over 100 years. Therefore, there are very few wristwatches that meet this criterion. To differentiate them from truly old items, watches manufactured before the 1970s are loosely called "antique."
Recently, it has become common to refer to watches manufactured more than 30 years ago as "vintage." In particular, pieces manufactured between the 1980s and 1990s, which fall between contemporary and vintage watches, are now commonly called "semi-vintage."
The Appeal of Vintage Watches
① Unique character
Even among the same models, each vintage watch has a unique character that changes based on its history, and this individuality is the greatest appeal of "vintage."
For example, a 50-year-old watch that has been stored in a drawer and never used would be considered a valuable deadstock (unused item). This offers the value of enjoying a design that no longer exists in new condition, with the beauty of a new watch.
On the other hand, many Submariners from several decades ago were used as practical items, and as a result, some pieces have a unique atmosphere due to scratches and fading on the bezel. This kind of cool factor is also one of the very appealing aspects of vintage watches.
They are truly unique items with what is commonly called "character," and people who enjoy vintage clothing, for example, tend to deliberately choose such pieces.
② Wide range of prices and values
Many people probably have the impression that vintage watches are expensive.
Certainly, magazines often feature only premium items, but considering the rising prices and premium status of current models, vintage watches, being essentially pre-owned, can generally be purchased at relatively reasonable prices.
Taking Rolex as an example, while there are models like the Daytona and Explorer that are traded at premium prices due to their popularity, for more common models like the Datejust and Air-King, you can overwhelmingly find them cheaper than current models.
For instance, if you were to buy a current Datejust, you'd need at least a million yen. However, a Datejust from the vintage era can be purchased for around 500,000 or 600,000 yen.
My first Rolex was an "Air-King" "Ref. 5500." Twenty-some years ago, the price was about 100,000 yen. While not expensive, it's a memorable piece that truly allowed me to appreciate the quality of Rolex and vintage watches.
Of course, the specifications and performance of vintage watches and modern watches differ greatly, so a simple comparison isn't entirely fair. However, after hearing all this, a vintage watch might become a viable option when purchasing a luxury watch on a limited budget, don't you think?
Handling Precautions
Despite all that, I often hear people ask, "How should I handle a vintage watch?"
Indeed, vintage watches do require careful handling. However, there's no need to be as overly meticulous as you might worry, and by following these few "precautions," you can enjoy vintage watches in your daily life, so it's certainly worth knowing.
In this section, I will explain the precautions for handling vintage watches.
① Be careful with water
The most important thing to be careful about is not getting it wet.
This applies even to diver's watches. Even for current models, manufacturers sometimes recommend checking the water resistance once or twice a year. For vintage watches, unless they have been recently maintained by the manufacturer and passed a proper water resistance test, it's safer to assume that they no longer retain their original water resistance.
Essentially, as long as you don't get it wet, you should be able to prevent almost all water intrusion in daily life by being careful with "rain" and "hand washing." Also, it might be best to avoid using it in climates where you sweat a lot.
② Be careful with impact
A wristwatch is a precision instrument, so even current models are not strong against impacts. Avoid hitting or dropping it, of course, but also avoid activities that apply strong impact to the wrist, such as baseball batting or golf swings.
Also, it's safer to avoid motorcycles as they can surprisingly transmit strong impacts to the wrist.
By the way, if you do apply a strong impact, even if there's no change to the exterior, the internal mechanism may have suffered significant damage. Check if there are any strange noises when you gently shake it, or if the accuracy is significantly off (it's good to check the average daily difference over a week for accuracy).
③ Be careful with magnetism
While some models are now resistant to magnetism due to advances in materials, you should generally keep watches away from strong magnetic fields, with the exception of special models. This is because magnetism can affect the hairspring, a component that controls accuracy. Vintage watches, in particular, are delicate regarding magnetism, so please be careful.
In daily life, the main thing to watch out for is not storing your watch with strong magnetic sources like smartphones, earphones, electronic devices, or bag magnets. It is recommended to keep your watch at least 5 cm away from magnetic sources.
If your watch suddenly becomes inaccurate, there's a good chance it's been magnetized. However, even if it does become magnetized, there's a process called "demagnetization," so your first step should be to consult the store where you bought it.
④ Don't forget to clean it after use 
Regardless of whether it's vintage or current, it's recommended to clean it after use.
There's no need for anything special. Simply wipe off sweat and sebum that have accumulated during use with a soft cloth. It's also recommended to periodically use a soft, dry toothbrush to gently remove any debris that has gotten into crevices.
Sebum and dirt can cause rust and lead to the deterioration and damage of parts. Keeping your watch clean is also good for your skin, so make sure to clean it simply after use. Additionally, it's recommended to request exterior cleaning when you have your watch overhauled. Areas that you usually can't clean, such as the inside of the bezel and the gaps around push buttons, will be cleaned for you.
Summary
How was it?
Many people may hesitate to buy a vintage watch because it seems difficult, but the points to be aware of are not significantly different from current models.
Don't be intimidated; I think it would be interesting to start with a relatively inexpensive one. Let's fall into the vintage rabbit hole together! (lol)
I hope this article has been useful to you and sparked even a little interest in luxury watches! Also, if you have any questions, please feel free to ask directly, and I will be happy to answer them thoroughly. We look forward to your visit and inquiries.
Stay tuned for next time! See you then!
