[2023 Edition] Mechanical Watches "What is [Patek Philippe] 'Advanced Research'?"

Today we will be sending you the 2023 edition of the mechanical watch "What is Patek Philippe's Advanced Research?"

"Advanced Research" refers to the initiative itself, with the aim of conducting cutting-edge research and studies, by having customers who understand the purpose of the model try out models that incorporate innovative materials and technologies, and then providing feedback to our regular models.

Rather than suddenly introducing technological innovations to their regular models, they test the reliability and durability of their watches to see if there are any defects, and this is the reason why Patek Philippe is called the best among watches. In addition, the manufacturer's warranty period for Advanced Research watches is set to five years, instead of the usual two years, which shows how seriously Patek Philippe takes its watches.

This time, we would like to take a closer look at the innovative technology of Patek Philippe's Advanced Research and introduce the six models that have been released so far! Please enjoy until the end.

①2005 『Annual Calendar』「Ref.5250G」

*Source: Patek Philippe

The first model from Advanced Research was the Annual Calendar Ref. 5250G, released in 2005 and limited to 100 pieces, which was the first to feature a silicon escape wheel (Silinvar®).

The overall design is the same as the Annual Calendar Ref. 5146, released in the same year, but the dial layout has been changed from the Roman index of the Ref. 5036 released in 1999 to a combination of Arabic numerals and bar indexes at 12, 3, and 9. The 18KWG (white gold) case has been enlarged from 37mm to 39mm, and the annual calendar display and moon phase are compactly arranged on the silver dial, making it a sophisticated and beautiful watch.

Technical Features: Silicon escape wheel (Silinvar®)

*Source: Patek Philippe

The escapement, which is said to be the heart of a mechanical watch (consisting of the balance wheel, anchor, and escape wheel), determines the precision of the watch and plays a very important role.

Normally, escape wheels are made of metal, but this model uses silicon, the advantages of which include high hardness and excellent wear resistance, which means there is no need to oil the pallet and escape wheel, it is not affected by magnetism because it is not magnetic, and it extends the time between overhauls. The contact surface between the pallet and escape wheel is prone to oil splashes, so the fact that it requires almost no oiling not only reduces the burden on the parts, but also improves the efficiency of transmitting the "rotating force" to the balance by making the material lighter.

②2006 『Annual Calendar』「Ref.5350R」

*Source: Patek Philippe

The second model from Advanced Research is the Annual Calendar Ref. 5350R, released in 2006 and limited to 300 pieces, which uses a silicon escape wheel (Silinvar®) and a silicon hairspring (Spiromax®).

The base movement has been changed from "Cal.315" to "Cal.324", and the dial layout follows "Ref.5146". The combination of 18KRG (rose gold) and silver dial gives the design an elegant and mature impression.

Technical features: Silicon hairspring (Spiromax®)

*Source: Patek Philippe

The hairspring is one of the components that make up the balance wheel. It repeatedly expands and contracts through rotational motion, causing vibrations in other gears and parts, and is an important component in achieving high precision.

The advantage of using a silicon hairspring is that it is not only highly antimagnetic, but also lighter than metal, less likely to deform, and highly resistant to shock and corrosion. Hairsprings require advanced processing technology to manufacture, and in fact, most of the time, they are supplied by a few companies, including Nivarox-Far, a subsidiary of the Swatch Group. However, Patek Philippe has succeeded in developing and manufacturing a hairspring out of silicon.

➂2008 "Annual Calendar" "Ref.5450P"

*Source: Patek Philippe

The third model from Advanced Research is the Annual Calendar Ref. 5450P, released in 2008 and limited to 300 pieces, which features a silicon escape wheel (Silinvar®), silicon balance spring (Spiromax®), and silicon pallet.

The layout of the dial is inherited from the "Cal. 5146", but the PT (platinum) case and popular, eye-catching salmon dial give the design a vintage feel.

Technical features: Silicon anchor (all escapements are made of silicon)

*Source: Patek Philippe

The anchor is one of the components that make up the escapement, and its role is to adjust and supplement the energy of the wound spring.

Starting with this model, the escapement is entirely made of silicon (named the Pulsomax® escapement), improving energy transmission efficiency by approximately 15%. The three watches introduced so far are also known as the "Advanced Research" trilogy, and are considered historic models that brought about technological innovation.

➃2011 "Perpetual Calendar" "Ref.5550P"

*Source: Patek Philippe

The fourth model from Advanced Research is the perpetual calendar Ref. 5550P, released in 2011 and limited to 300 pieces, which is made up of a Pulsomax® escapement and a newly developed GyromaxSi balance (Oscillomax®).

This is Advanced Research's first model equipped with a perpetual calendar, and its dial layout is based on the "Ref. 5140" that was sold at the same time, with some changes such as leaf hands and railroad minutes on the outer periphery of the dial. The combination of a PT (platinum) case and a silver dial, and the use of gold color for the indexes and hands, create a beautiful contrast and differentiate the watch from the rest in terms of design.

Technical features: Silicon GyromaxSi balance

*Source: Patek Philippe

The hourglass-shaped new balance wheel, named GyromaxSi balance wheel, is made partially of 24K silicon and acts as an impulse stone, providing back-and-forth vibrations to the pallet.

This "Cal.240 Q Si" is based on the "Cal.240", which has been Patek Philippe's core movement since 1977. The usefulness of silicon material is clear from the fact that the power reserve of the conventional "Cal.240" is about 48 hours, while the "Cal.240 Q Si" has evolved dramatically to a long power reserve of about 70 hours. By the way, it is also noteworthy that silicon is being used for the first time in the current collection in the "1/10 second single push button chronograph" "Ref.5470P" announced in 2022.

⑤2017 "Aquanaut" "Ref.5650G"

*Source: Patek Philippe

The Aquanaut Advanced Research "Ref. 5650G" was released in 2017, the 20th anniversary of the birth of the Aquanaut, in a limited edition of 500 pieces.

The 42.2mm jumbo-sized "Ref. 5168G" with a beautiful midnight blue dial released in the same year is probably familiar to many, but this watch is equipped with a travel time function and has an openwork at the 9 o'clock position on the dial, making it immediately obvious that it is a special model. Patek Philippe rarely makes the dial surface openwork (skeleton) except for some models such as the "Calatrava Skeleton", and this was the first time that the brand's popular luxury sports model was made openwork, which became a hot topic and a fierce battle for it. It has now become Advanced Research's most premium model.

Features: Silicon hairspring and flexible mechanism

*Source: Patek Philippe

It uses an improved version (2nd generation) of the silicon hairspring (Spiromax®) released in 2006, and achieves ultra-high accuracy of within -1 to +2 seconds per day. By applying the processing that was previously only applied to the outer end of the hairspring to the inner end of the curve, it has reduced deviation due to the position difference of the watch.

*Source: Patek Philippe

They also developed a "flexible mechanism" made of stainless steel (SS), a material commonly used in watchmaking. ( * The driving part of the button that operates the hour hand used to set the second hour of the travel time watch. )

By making the time zone change mechanism into a single SS (stainless steel) part, we have succeeded in reducing the number of parts from the conventional 37 to just 12. The "flexible mechanism" consisting of four tiny leaf springs crossed in a cross shape is not only thinner, but also suppresses wear on the axis and requires almost no lubrication.

⑥2021 "Minute Repeater" "Ref. 5750P"

*Source: Patek Philippe

This is the sixth model from Advanced Research, which uses the "Fortissimo Module" that reverberates sound inside the case, and is the "Minute Repeater Advanced Research Fortissimo" "Ref. 5750P", released in 2021 and limited to 15 pieces.

Inspired by the "Ref.5178", this watch uses the "Cal.R27PS", a new mechanism that allows the minute repeater to emit the gong sound outside the watch. In addition, the micro rotor, which was previously made of 22k gold, is now made of PT (platinum), a material with a high density, which improves the winding rate and makes the watch thinner. The dial features an openwork design reminiscent of the wheels of a vintage car, making it an artistic design.

Technical Features: Fortissimo Module

*Source: Patek Philippe

The "Fortissimo Module" acoustic amplification and transmission system was born from our pursuit of a beautiful tone that combines sound quality and volume regardless of the material.

Generally, 18KRG (rose gold) is considered to have the best balance of "sound quality" and "volume," while PT (platinum) is considered to be unsuitable for minute repeaters because it tends to muffle the sound. By improving this weakness, we have succeeded in producing a soft "sound quality" with PT (platinum) material, with a volume that is about six times that of conventional materials.

summary

What did you think.

Many of the models from Advanced Research, which are enthusiastically supported by many enthusiasts, have become auction pieces, but I think they were all very convincing. Never content with the status quo, Patek Philippe's attitude of tackling new technological developments may be the reason why it has gained such an unshakable position and reputation. We look forward to the technology developed in Advanced Research being incorporated into regular models, and rare Patek Philippe pieces are one of our specialties, so if you are thinking of selling yours, please feel free to contact us.

Once again, I hope this article helps you find your favorite one.

see you!