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This article is a column that combines current news with luxury watches. The article content and images are created based on AI, and the explanations are based on the latest data (Sotheby's Important Watches Part I auction in May 2025).
What happened at Sotheby's latest auction?
Customer : "I heard that there was a big bid at a recent auction, but which model was the big winner?"
Staff : "Yes! At Sotheby's in May 2025, Rolex and Patek Philippe were in a fierce battle for the top spot. In particular, Patek took four out of the top five spots, reaffirming the heat of the market. Let's take a closer look!"
*Images generated by AI
Rolex: The Legendary Daytona Returns to the Spotlight
| Ranking | Lot | Model/Ref. | Estimate (CHF) | LOT SOLD (CHF) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 84 | Daytona “Paul Newman” 6241 | 150'000 – 300'000 | 241'300 |
| 1* | 86 | Daytona “Paul Newman Red Panda” 6240 | 200'000 – 400'000 | 241'300 |
| 3 | 121 | Daytona “Zenith” 16528 | 50'000 – 100'000 | 114'300 |
| 4 | 124 | Chronograph 6034 (PG) | 80'000 – 150'000 | 95'250 |
| 5 | 80 | DateJust 1601 (YG) | 26'000 – 50'000 | 66'040 |
*Source: https://www.sothebys.com/en/
Staff : "The top spot goes to the Paul Newman Daytona. The two are tied for first place at the same price."
For beginners : Paul Newman watches are popular not only for their name value as an actor, but also for their rare dials, making them a valuable investment.
For enthusiasts : The revival of the Ref. 6240 is a good example that dispels the skepticism about redialed watches in recent years. The trend of emphasizing originality will continue in the future.
*Images generated by AI
Patek Philippe: The sports model dominates
| Ranking | Lot | Model/Ref. | Estimate (CHF) | LOT SOLD (CHF) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 72 | Nautilus 5711/1300A-001 (SS+Diamonds) | 300'000 – 500'000 | 368'300 |
| 2 | 69 | Aquanaut Travel Time 5650G-001 | 260'000 – 350'000 | 336'550 |
| 3 | 70 | Nautilus “40th” 5976/1G-001 | 260'000 – 350'000 | 330'200 |
| 3* | 94 | Padellone 3448/5 (WG) | 160'000 – 350'000 | 330'200 |
| 5 | 41 | Minute Repeater 5079J | 200'000 – 300'000 | 228'600 |
*Source: https://www.sothebys.com/en/
Staff : "The secondary market for sports models, such as the Nautilus and Aquanaut, has remained strong for the past few years."
For beginners : The Nautilus 5711 is a model that is said to be "synonymous with watch investment." The diamond setting in this watch was evaluated for its rarity.
For enthusiasts : The Advanced Research 5650G is an experimental watch equipped with a silicon escapement. We believe that the rarity of the limited edition of 500 pieces, as well as the bids from those who appreciate design and technological innovation, were the factors that influenced the purchase.
*Images generated by AI
Overall ranking of all brands: 4 Patek Philippes vs 1 Rolex
| Ranking | Lot | brand | Model/Ref. | Estimate (CHF) | LOT SOLD (CHF) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 72 | Patek Philippe | Nautilus 5711/1300A-001 | 300'000 – 500'000 | 368'300 |
| 2 | 69 | Patek Philippe | Aquanaut TT 5650G-001 | 260'000 – 350'000 | 336'550 |
| 3 | 70 | Patek Philippe | Nautilus 5976/1G-001 | 260'000 – 350'000 | 330'200 |
| 3* | 94 | Patek Philippe | Padellone 3448/5 | 160'000 – 350'000 | 330'200 |
| 5 | 84 | Rolex | Daytona 6241 “Paul Newman” | 150'000 – 300'000 | 241'300 |
*Source: https://www.sothebys.com/en/
- Patek Philippe secures a leading position in the market with its sports line.
- Rolex still has vintage models available.
- In terms of the upside surprise against the estimate, Rolex's Paul Newman remains strong at about +30%.
Staff : "The exchange rate (CHF/JPY) has risen by +8% since the beginning of the year, so this will likely have an impact on domestic retail prices."
*Images generated by AI
Here are the differences between beginners and enthusiasts that you should look out for!
- For beginners: First, learn popular references (e.g. Rolex 116520/Patek Philippe 5711) to get a feel for market prices.
- For enthusiasts: Even with the same reference, there are huge differences in "dial variations," "serial numbers," and "parts consistency."
- Common: Check the difference between the estimate and the winning bid every time. You can get a numerical grasp of the market heat.
*Images generated by AI
Future Outlook: Luxury Watch Market Read by Interest Rates, Exchange Rates, and Supply
Staff : "The Swiss policy interest rate is currently 1.75%, but there are expectations of a rate cut in the second half of the year. If the CHF weakens and the yen strengthens, the import costs for domestic inventory will fall, which may provide room for adjustment of retail prices.
On the other hand, supply adjustments (especially the reduction in Nautilus production) are expected to continue, so secondary market prices will remain firm."
*Images generated by AI
Summary: Understanding the "next big thing" through data
Staff: "At Sotheby's this year, the polarization between 'sports Pateks are strong' and 'vintage Rolexes remain popular' became even clearer."
Beginners should use the upward deviation from the Estimate as an indicator, while enthusiasts should aim to differentiate themselves by rare dials and production backgrounds . Be sure to check the trends of the next auction!
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