Grand Seiko is a luxury watch brand that Japan is proud of around the world. It has been a popular top brand of Seiko for many years, but due to its popularity it became an independent brand in 2017 , and since then it has continued to offer a lineup of watches that are not only popular in Japan but also around the world.

This article is aimed at those who want to buy a Grand Seiko but don't know how to choose one, so if you're thinking, "I want a Grand Seiko watch," or "It's an expensive purchase so I don't want to make a mistake," be sure to read this article.

[Grand Seiko] Classification

*Source: https://www.grand-seiko.com/jp-ja/special/studio-shizukuishi

Grand Seiko is roughly divided into two types: "sports models" and "dress models." Many people may have a strong impression of dress models, but there are actually many sports models in the lineup. First, let's take a look at what types of models are available in each category.

Sports Model

*Source: https://www.rolex.com/ja/world-of-rolex/motor-sports.html

Sports models were originally made for the battlefield, sports competitions, and pilots, and there are various types depending on the purpose, such as diver's watches, pilot watches, chronograph watches for racers, etc. Today, most watches are used for everyday use and casual styles, going beyond the realm of tools and instruments.

Types of sports models
"Sports Collection", "Evolution 9 Collection", etc.

Dress model

*Source: https://www.rolex.com/ja/world-of-rolex/the-arts.html

"Dress models", also known as "classic models", are watches with a simple design suitable for suits and formal occasions. Grand Seiko's dress models have a rich lineup of elegant designs that pursue the uniquely Japanese "beauty", and their dignity, presence, and dignity are admired around the world.

Types of dress models
"Heritage Collection", "Elegance Collection", "Masterpiece Collection", etc.

Choose by movement

When choosing a watch, the heart of the watch, the movement, is also an important point, apart from its value and design. Grand Seiko has three main movements, which we will introduce here.

Mechanical watch 9S caliber

*Source: https://www.grand-seiko.com/jp-ja/collections/movement/mechanical

The 9S Caliber is made up of over 200 parts, each less than 1mm in size, assembled by hand by artisans.

In particular, the balance of the hairspring, which determines the accuracy of the watch, is adjusted by the craftsman using the sense cultivated through his experience. Grand Seiko watches, which are produced using such advanced precision processing technology and craftsmanship, are said to be of a quality comparable to that of top Swiss brands.

Spring Drive 9R Caliber

*Source: https://www.grand-seiko.com/jp-ja/collections/movement/springdrive

"Spring Drive" is a hybrid movement that combines mechanics and quartz.

This unique Grand Seiko mechanism, which uses the mainspring of a mechanical watch as its power source but is equipped with the regulating mechanism of a quartz watch, combines the advantages of both a mechanical watch with the strong torque of a mechanical watch and the high precision of a quartz watch. It was developed over a period of more than 20 years and is a movement that makes use of the advanced technical capabilities that are one of the brand's strengths.

Quartz watch 9F caliber

*Source: https://www.grand-seiko.com/jp-ja/collections/movement/quartz

The "9F caliber" is highly accurate and can be produced at low cost compared to mechanical watches.

While the torque of a typical quartz watch caliber is small, it is difficult to move large hands, but the 9F caliber has the torque power to move even large hands. Another key point is that it is equipped with an "instant daily calendar" that changes the date instantly. Incidentally, the release of Seiko's Astron in 1969 was the trigger for the shift from mechanical watches to quartz watches, which dealt a devastating blow to long-established Swiss watch brands and triggered the "quartz shock." For this reason, Grand Seiko's 9F caliber is also known as the "ultimate quartz."

Choose from usage scenarios

Next, we will introduce recommended models for those who want to purchase a phone for business or personal use.

The Heritage Collection is perfect for business situations.

*Source: https://www.grand-seiko.com/jp-ja/collections/movement/quartz

The "Heritage Collection" features a standard design.

It is made based on the "Seiko Style" design philosophy that has been passed down for many years by the brand. The lineup includes models that are free of unnecessary decoration, have a simple and balanced design, classical design, and incorporate the latest technology. Not only are they beautiful to look at, but they are also highly practical, so they are a must-have for businessmen.

If you want to match it with a casual style, try the "Sports Collection"

*Source: https://www.grand-seiko.com/jp-ja/collections/movement/quartz

The Sports Collection offers a wide range of models with practical functions, such as diver's watches, chronographs, and GMT watches.

They feature high functionality and a casual design, making them suitable for everyday use. They also offer highly durable and water-resistant models, so they are recommended for active people and those looking for a durable watch that won't break easily.

"Elegance Collection" for those who often wear formal attire

*Source: https://www.grand-seiko.com/jp-ja/collections/movement/quartz

The Elegance Collection combines Japanese aesthetic sense with sophisticated design and features many elegant models.

The thin case with Zaratsu polishing and the dome-shaped glass enhance the classical design. The subtle beauty of the watch that shines from the cuff is something that only Grand Seiko can achieve.

Choose based on brand strengths

Grand Seiko's strengths lie in its designs that embody Japanese aesthetics and the sophisticated watchmaking techniques of its skilled craftsmen. Here we introduce recommended models for those who want to fully enjoy the strengths of this brand.

The "Evolution 9 Collection" embodies Japanese aesthetics

*Source: https://www.grand-seiko.com/jp-ja/collections/movement/quartz

The Evolution 9 Collection is a relatively new collection, launched in 2020 .

It adopts the "Evolution 9 Style" design grammar, which is an evolution of the traditional "Seiko Style." It has a sharp form, with a focus on the beauty of light and shadow and a clear case surface. Many of the dial designs are inspired by nature in Japan, and each one has a unique beauty.

"Masterpiece Collection" brings together technical expertise

*Source: https://www.grand-seiko.com/jp-ja/collections/movement/quartz

The Masterpiece Collection is Grand Seiko's highest-end line.

The watches are produced by skilled watchmakers at the Micro Artist Studio, a watchmaking workshop in Shiojiri City, Nagano Prefecture. Many of the models are inspired by Japanese nature, and are characterized by their highly original designs. In addition to the appearance of the watch, the brand is particular about the beauty of the movement, and you can feel the brand's uncompromising attitude towards watchmaking.

5 Recommended Grand Seiko Watches

From here, taking into account the above, we will introduce five recommended Grand Seiko watches.

① "Evolution 9 Collection" "Ref. SLGH005"

*Source: https://feldmarwatch.com/model-spotlight-grand-seiko-slgh005-white-birch/

The "Evolution 9 Collection" Ref. SLGH005 was created with the image of the birch forest that can be seen from the watch workshop in Shizukuishi, Iwate Prefecture.

The dial has a three-dimensional texture that expresses the birch forest, and the sparkling white shines beautifully. The automatic movement is equipped with " Cal.9SA5" , and the case is only 11.7mm thick. It is a world-renowned masterpiece that won the men's watch category of the "Geneva Watch Grand Prix ( GPHG )", known as the Academy Award of the watch world.

② "Heritage Collection" "Ref.SBGA211"

*Source: https://www.thewatchbox.com/shop/Grand-Seiko-Grand-Seiko-Spring-Drive-SBGA211.html

The Heritage Ref.SBGA211 was inspired by the snow-capped Hotaka mountain range.

The dial reproduces the wind patterns created by the snow surface blown by the wind. The case and bracelet are made of bright titanium, which is about 30 % lighter than stainless steel, and is also attractive for its excellent wearing comfort. The movement is equipped with Spring Drive " Cal.9R65" , and you can enjoy the smooth sweeping movement of the hands.

③ "Sports Collection" "Ref.SBGJ237"

*Source: https://www.crownandcaliber.com/products/grand-seiko-sport-sbgj237-10-10-grs-5bqerc

The "Sports Collection" GMT watch Ref. SBGJ237 features an impressive blue and white bezel.

Although it is a large size at 44mm , the two-tone blue and white bezel gives it an exquisitely elegant design. The crown is placed at the 4 o'clock position so as not to interfere with wrist movement, making it a practical design. Equipped with the high-beat movement " Cal.9S86" that vibrates 10 times per second, it is highly robust and sure to be useful for everyday use.

④ "Heritage Collection" "Ref.SBGA375"

*Source: https://www.crownandcaliber.com/products/grand-seiko-spring-drive-sbga375-10-10-grs-1c4kq5

The Heritage Collection Ref. SBGA375 is a modern upgrade of the 44GS , which was released in 1967 and is the basis of the "Seiko Style" design philosophy inherited by Grand Seiko.

The striking midnight blue dial, close to black, is equipped with only the bare minimum of functions, such as a date display and power reserve, and the beautiful case shape with Zaratsu polishing stands out, creating a sophisticated design that can be used in any situation. The movement is Spring Drive " Cal.9R65". This watch combines the power of a mechanical watch with the high precision of a quartz watch.

⑤ "Elegance Collection" "Ref.SBGW260"

*Source: https://grandseikoboutique.in/products/sbgw260

To commemorate the 140th anniversary of Seiko's founding, the Elegance Collection "Ref. SBGW260" was produced in 2021 as a worldwide limited edition of 350 pieces.

This watch is a reproduction of the original Grand Seiko design in 18KPG ( pink gold), and the case size has been enlarged from the original 35mm to 38mm to meet modern needs. The movement is Cal. 9S64 , which can be viewed through the see-through back cover. Another point is that the movement receiver is engraved with the "rounded corner S mark," which was used as a trademark when Kintaro Hattori founded Seikosha.

summary

What did you think.

Grand Seiko is highly regarded both in Japan and overseas. The features and designs vary greatly depending on the model, so try to find the one that suits you best from various perspectives, such as the movement, the occasion for use, and the brand's strengths.

If you have any questions about this model, please feel free to contact us.

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