No. 41 Luxury Watch Trends 2025 | Current Audemars Piguet Market — Comparison of 6 Models and Regional/Channel Analysis

table of contents

• First, a summary of the three lines
• Brand story (history, independence, "the holy trinity")
• What you can tell by looking at the Royal Oak
• Easy to understand AP technology (sound, thinness, super complexity)
• AP House and the strategy of "not over-producing"
• Market prices for the six representative models and trends over the past three years
• What are the differences between regions (Japan/Hong Kong/US/Middle East)?
• Which channel do you buy through? (Store/CPO/Auction)
• 10 things to check before buying & 7 things to check before selling
• Reasons for price movements (exchange rates, interest rates, seasons, photos)
• Basics of daily care and overhaul (OH)
• Mini Glossary (Quick Review)
• Frequently asked questions (very specific)
• Reference Links & Next Actions

First, a summary of the three lines

• AP's value = "institutionalized rarity" : Independent management x Royal Oak's strong design assets x RD#'s talkable technology .
• They are also good at selling : DTC × AP House enhances the experience, and by not over-producing it , it is easy to maintain its value.
• How to read the market : 16202 is a "game of product selection", 26240/26331 is "focus on rotation", 26586/26591 is "channel optimization".

Brand story (history, independence, "the holy trinity")

AP was founded in 1875 in Le Brassus in the Vallée de Joux mountain range in Switzerland. Its founders were Jules-Louis Audemars and Edouard-Auguste Piguet . Pursuing "quality over quantity," they continued to develop complex mechanisms and produce small-scale watches. As an independent maison not part of a corporate group, AP is unique in that it can make decisions with a long-term perspective.

In the context of luxury watches, it is considered one of the " holy trinity " alongside Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin . This is not because of its high price, but because of its reputation as a result of its comprehensive accumulation of history, technology, finish, and customer experience .

What you can "see" about the Royal Oak (shape, texture, story)

① Octagonal bezel and visible screws

The face of the Royal Oak is its octagonal bezel and the screws visible on the front . These are not just decorative, but a concept that combines function and design . The perfectly aligned screw heads speak to the precision of the design and finish .

② Integrated bracelet

Rather than making the case and bracelet separately and then joining them, they are designed as a single piece from the start . The chamfering (polishing of the corners) and the direction of the hairline on the links are aligned, which gives the light a neat look. Whether in a photograph or on the wrist, the "sharpness of the lines" is what makes the Royal Oak so appealing.

③ “Tapestry” Dial

The rectangular indentations on the dial are known as tapestry (a type of guilloche). The minute engravings change appearance as the light catches them. Depending on the model, the scale of the pattern varies from "Petite (small)" to "Grande (large)" to "Mega (even larger)", completely changing the impression.

④ What is “Jumbo 16202”?

The Jumbo has the most classic size at 39mm . The 16202 was released for the 50th anniversary in 2022, inheriting the same appearance while updating the movement. Its balance of traditional appearance and modern heart is popular.

Easy to understand AP technology (sound, thinness, super complexity)

Supersonnerie (RD#1) — A minute repeater with a different sound

The minute repeater is the "art of sound." AP has devised a case structure that produces a loud, clear sound even when the watch is worn. The idea is to make the case resonate like the body of a musical instrument .

Ultra-thin Perpetual Calendar (RD#2) — A challenge to be "thin yet tough"

Perpetual calendars tend to be thick due to the large number of parts. The RD#2's mechanism has been cleverly positioned to make the movement itself extremely thin . Going beyond the image of thinness being fragile, it also achieves the rigidity to withstand everyday use .

Universelle (RD#4) — The answer to “usable supercomplexity”

It's not enough to just have a lot of features. AP designs the controls and visibility , aiming for a super-complex design that users can master . This is the idea that UI/UX is especially important at the high end.

AP House and the "not over-producing" strategy (a system to protect value)

AP operates directly managed bases , AP House , in various cities. These are salons where customers can experience the brand , rather than just a place to sell. They offer attentive customer service, explanations about after-sales services, and suggestions for limited edition models, creating a space that is premised on a long-term relationship .

At the same time, AP adheres to a policy of not increasing production numbers too much , which helps to maintain a stable supply and demand balance, making it easier for value to be maintained in the secondary market.

Market prices of the six representative models and trends over the past three years (easy to understand)

When looking at the numbers, keep in mind that the "playing field" is different: used estimates = current median value , dealer listings = desired price before negotiations , and auctions = the result of a single bet . The median sale price (number of days) indicates good turnover, and volatility indicates the magnitude of fluctuation.

The personality of each model in one word

• 16202 (Jumbo): Highly stable. Winning or losing is determined by individual differences (sharpness of the exterior, accessories, history).
• 26240 (current chronograph): Good rotation . The color makes it look good in photos.
• 26331 (previous generation Chrono): Low volatility and easy to handle . Good specimens have a solid bottom.
• 15550 (37mm): High demand. Color and model year make a big difference.
• 26586/26591 (high comp): The value fluctuates greatly depending on the channel . Consignment and overseas inquiries are also in the cards.

What are the differences between regions (Japan/Hong Kong/US/Middle East)?

Regional differences arise from factors such as exchange rates, travel demand, tax systems, and inventory turnover. The same brand may have a different feel depending on the location —this idea is important.

Which channel do you buy through? (Store/CPO/Auction)

10 things to check before buying & 7 things to check before selling (copy and paste OK)

Check before you buy (10)

• ①Includes : box, warranty card, links, booklet, tag.
• ② Provenance: Where was it purchased (direct/regular/parallel)? Paper history, email, invoice.
• ③ Exterior: Sharp surfaces, rounded corners, screw heads, and scratches on the bezel.
• ④Bracelet: Stretching, rattle, and buckle jamming.
• ⑤Hands and calendar: Are they misaligned or stuck?
• ⑥ Luminescence: Unevenness or discoloration.
• ⑦ Daily rate: Actual measurement (timegrapher is also OK).
• 8. Waterproofing: Check the display. Don't rely too much on older models.
• 9. Size: Compare sizes 37, 39, and 41. Does it fit the cuffs and wrist bone structure?
• 10. Sales expectations: Understand the expected range when selling (store/CPO/auction) in advance.

Check before selling (7)

• ① Current condition photos: Please be honest and include any scratches. 45° angle, front, wrist, attachments, and any areas of concern.
• ② Condition comment: Understand it yourself (whether or not it has been over-polished, etc.).
• 3 ) Summary of history: when, where, how much, and maintenance history.
• 4 ) Channel selection: In-store/consignment/CPO/auction.
• ⑤Timing: Compare quotes before and after exchange rates and events.
• ⑥ Minimum line: Calculate your take-home pay including taxes and fees.
• 7 ) Security: Safety during shipping and visits (high-value transportation/insurance).

Reasons for price movements (exchange rates, interest rates, seasons, photos)

The price of a watch depends not only on the quality of the item , but also on the external environment . If you keep the following in mind, your judgment will be less likely to waver.

• Exchange rate: Weak yen → inflow of overseas demand (strong domestic demand). Strong yen → be cautious about domestic selling.
• Interest rates: Low interest rates → Collectibles are a tailwind / High interest rates → Cash preference leads to calm.
• Gold price: Impact on primary prices of solid gold. There may be a return to stainless steel.
• Seasonality: Activity increases from spring to early summer (bonuses) and the end of the year (gifts and auctions).
• Photos: If the photos are good, the number of inquiries will increase, and so will the price . All it takes is proper lighting and a white background.

Basics of daily care and overhaul (OH)

The face and corners of a Royal Oak are its most important parts. Wipe off any dirt with a soft cloth , rinse off any sweat or dust with a light shower, and then let it dry completely (assuming the waterproofing is still intact).

• No: Using abrasive cloths, strong ultrasonic waves, or requesting excessive polishing.
• OH estimate: 5 to 7 years (frequency of use and individual differences may apply). Genuine OH is expensive, but it directly translates to value and peace of mind .
• Waterproofing: Don't rely too much on older models and be careful not to let them get submerged in water during rain or when washing your hands.

Mini Glossary (Quick Review)

Frequently asked questions (very specific)

Q1. For your first AP, which one should you get, 16202 or 15550?

A. The 16202 is "true to the original" at 39mm, and is highly valued, so choosing the right one is difficult. The 15550 is easy to use at 37mm, and its thickness is appealing for practical use . If your wrist is on the slimmer side, choose the 15550, but if you want something "right in the heart of history," choose the 16202.

Q2. What is the difference between 26240 and 26331?

A. The current 26240 has good rotation and benefits from minor design changes and updated moves. The 26331 is the previous model with low volatility and an easy-to-hold price. If you prioritize rotation, go for the 26240 , and if you prioritize stability and cost performance, go for the 26331 .

Q3. Is high compression (26586/26591) scary?

A. It's not that it's scary, but rather that it's all about choosing the right channel . If you choose the channel you're most comfortable with - direct sales, CPO, consignment, or auction - it's easier to set the price. The same goes for selling.

Q4. How often is maintenance performed?

A. The guideline is 5 to 7 years . The waterproof packing will deteriorate, so be careful with older models that come into contact with water. Although a genuine overhaul is more expensive, it is effective in preserving the value.

Reference Links & Next Actions

• View AP stock
• View sales results
• Inquire about deposit sales/purchases

*The figures in the text are estimates at the time of writing. They may vary depending on exchange rates, stock availability, and the condition of the individual item. Actual sales vary greatly depending on the channel.