Yasuharu Abe's Patek Theory ~No. 103~ "Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022" New [Patek Philippe]

Good evening everyone.

This time, I would like to talk about Patek Philippe's new product, which was just announced at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022 .

In my personal opinion, this year was an unusually good year. All the models were excellent and it was difficult to choose a favorite, but I will introduce the models that made the biggest impression on me, so please enjoy until the end.

*All images from Patek.com

"Ref.5226G-001"
"Calatrava" 18KWG
Price: 4'510'000 JPY (tax included)

The first piece we will introduce is the latest addition to the Calatrava collection, the Ref. 5226G-001, which comes in an 18K white gold case.

I had imagined that a successor model to the traditional "Ref. 5196" would be released, but the innovative "Calatrava" overturned that expectation.

The first thing that catches your eye is the textured lacquered anthracite dial, which has a black gradation that darkens toward the edge. The surface evokes a "vintage" image of a watch that has changed and deteriorated over time. The luminous hands and indexes also have a vintage feel to them.

The case diameter is 40mm. The bezel is smooth, and the side of the case is decorated with the guilloche pattern of the Clous de Paris, which symbolizes the manufacture. It is somewhat reminiscent of Breguet's coin edge, and is likely to become a representative design of Patek Philippe in the future.

The skeleton back allows you to see the automatic movement "Cal. 26-330 SC" with a hacking function (stop second) that was also used in the Nautilus.

This new model comes with two interchangeable straps. One is beige calfskin with a nubuck finish. The other is black calfskin with an embossed fabric pattern and contrasting beige hand stitching. Both straps have a nice feel, and it's nice to be able to change them depending on your mood and style of the day.

"Ref.5326G-001"
"Annual Calendar Travel Time" 18KWG
Price: 8'888'000 JPY (tax included)

When I first saw this model, I thought it was really cool! This is because it is the first model to combine an annual calendar and a travel time display mechanism.

The case design and dial are similar to the new Calatrava "Ref. 5226G-001" introduced earlier, but of course they are not the same. The balance of the placement of each display window and moon phase, which uses every inch of space on the dial, can only be described as "as expected from Patek Philippe."

To always show the correct local date, the travel time mechanism controls the annual calendar and allows the date to be adjusted in both directions, forwards and backwards.

To achieve this, a new automatic movement, "Cal.31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H," was developed. It is surprising that eight technical patents are currently pending to improve the accuracy, performance, reliability, safety, and ease of operation.

This model also features a Clous de Paris guilloché pattern around the entire side of the case, and an anthracite dial with a black gradation that darkens toward the outer periphery. The slightly rough texture is impressive, giving it a vintage-like finish.

In addition, this model also comes with two interchangeable bands (same as above, so explanation omitted) , and it is a wonderful model that is flawless in terms of design and functionality. I can't wait to see the new automatic movement "Cal.31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H" as well as the watch itself.

"Ref.5230P-001"
『World Time』PLATINUM
Price: 8'206'000 JPY (tax included)

The third generation of the modern World Time, Ref. 5230, is said to be based on a model released in the 1950s. The long-awaited Ref. 5230P-001, with a PT (platinum) x blue dial x blue calfskin strap, has finally been released.

As always, the 24 time zones can be seen at a glance, and the push button at the 10 o'clock position allows easy adjustment in one-hour increments - a feature unique to Patek Philippe and not available from any other brand.

The center of the dial features a new circular guilloche pattern that has been hand-finished. I can't wait to see this beautiful dial.

The micro-rotor automatic movement "Cal. 240 HU", which can be seen through the skeleton back, has been installed in the World Time since its reappearance in 2000.

"Ref.5231G-001"
『World Time』18KWG
Price: 10'252'000 JPY (tax included)

Since Louis Cottier invented the world time mechanism in the 1930s, Patek Philippe has been decorating its World Time watches with maps of various regions of the world in cloisonné enamel. These are truly works of art, and at overseas watch auctions, they attract the attention of enthusiastic collectors and are sold at high prices.

This year's new model features an 18KWG (white gold) case and a cloisonné enamel map of Southeast Asia and Oceania.

The "Ref. 5231J-001", which has an 18KYG (yellow gold) case, features a map of Europe, Africa, and the Americas, which is also a very beautiful map, but this time Japan is also included on the map.

I think this model is difficult to obtain, but I would like to get my hands on it soon. Our store has handled the Cloisonné series "Ref. 5131" / "Ref. 5231J-001" based on the second generation "World Time" "Ref. 5130", and I personally have a special attachment to the Cloisonné "World Time", so this is a watch I would definitely like to handle.

"Ref.5270P-014"
"Perpetual Calendar Chronograph" PLATINUM
Price: 24'464'000 JPY (tax included)

The Ref. 5270, which was released in 2011, is a historic model that carries on a tradition spanning several generations, beginning with the first perpetual calendar chronograph, the Ref. 1518, released in 1941.

The new model announced this year is the "Ref. 5270P-014" with a black gradient lacquered green dial. This one is also breathtakingly cool...

The hand-wound movement "CH 29-535 PS Q", which can be seen through the skeleton back, will captivate any watch lover.

The brilliant black alligator band with green hand stitching is also innovative and cool.

Like the Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-014, there is a fear that this will come to a quiet end after a short time, but this is also one of the models I'm looking forward to seeing in person soon!

summary

What did you think.

As I mentioned at the beginning, I think this year's new models were very abundant. Of course, there are still many attractive models, but I picked out the ones that I was particularly interested in.

When new items arrive at Commit, we will take a closer look at each model and introduce them to you. If you are one of the first to get your hands on one, please come and show it off. (laughs)

see you!