Commit TV Yagi Column [Rolex] 9 points to look for when purchasing vintage and semi-vintage models

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With the recent revitalization of the luxury watch market, vintage and semi-vintage Rolex models are gaining more attention. This is because more and more people are getting hooked on luxury watches after getting their first newer model, and gradually becoming interested in vintage and semi-vintage models.

So this time

[Rolex] Vintage and semi-vintage models

Nine points to look out for when purchasing

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With relatively newer models closer to the current model, there are almost no differences between individual items due to advances in manufacturing technology, but with older models such as vintage and semi-vintage, there are large differences between individual items, and most of the items have been replaced with new parts due to damage caused by aging. Furthermore, the evaluation varies greatly depending on the condition of the items, and without knowledge, it is impossible to tell whether the price is fair, making it almost impossible to make a satisfactory purchase.

In this article, we will narrow it down to 9 points that even those who are not very familiar with vintage and semi-vintage models will be able to keep in mind and be fine! This is a must-read for anyone considering purchasing a vintage or semi-vintage Rolex model, so we recommend that you read it to the end and save it so that you can look back on it whenever you like.

Here are 9 things to look out for when purchasing!

①【Dial】

The dial, which can be said to be the face of the watch, is often damaged or discolored in old watches, and has changed from its original condition. Be sure to check the location and size of the scratches, the extent of the changes, and the condition of the watch.

However, just because it is not in perfect condition does not mean that it is all bad, and for some models and individual items, the evaluation may increase depending on how it changes over time. It is very difficult to grasp all of these points, and it is difficult to judge unless you are an appraiser with extensive knowledge. Be sure to check with a knowledgeable appraiser or staff member before purchasing.

*These are just a few examples, but we will introduce some of the highly acclaimed "aging" features.

"Spider Dial"

A dial with cracks that look like a spider web

"Tropical Dial"

The black dial will turn brown over time.

"Patrizzi Dial"

The sub-dial of the "Ref.16520" has turned brown.

② [Luminous index and hands]

The luminous paint used varies depending on the era:

Tritium: ~1998
Luminova (※1): ~2008
Chromalight : Up to 2023

*1. The years vary depending on the model, but we list the most representative ones.

When a watch is overhauled by the manufacturer, the tritium luminous hands are often replaced with newer ones. Check the above dates to make sure that the year of manufacture and the type of luminous paint match. Also, even if a watch appears to be an original that has been kept as it was when it was first sold, the luminous paint may have been repainted. It is not easy to tell the difference, so we recommend that you always check with the store before purchasing.

③【Case】

Everyone will check the condition of the watch for scratches, but in addition, you should also check how much polish the watch has been applied to. Unpolished watches in their original condition when first sold will be valued higher. Depending on the store, all products may be polished when purchased and sold in a clean condition. Please note that just because a watch is clean does not mean it is OK.

④【Bezel】

As with the case, check the condition of the scratches and the degree of polishing. Also, depending on the model, it is important to check whether the year of manufacture of the watch matches the age of the bezel. Be sure to check this with the retailer before purchasing.

⑤【Windshield】

For chips in the crystal, please actually run your finger around the circumference to make sure there are no snags. For Rolex crystals, the crown watermark is added to the crystal after the 2000s to prevent counterfeiting. (The age varies depending on the model.) If the crown watermark is on a watch manufactured before the 1990s, you can tell that it has been replaced.

⑥【Breath】

If you hold the watch horizontally, you can see how twisted the bracelet is. If the watch is worn frequently, the links of the bracelet will stretch and droop. The closer to a straight line, the better the watch is.

⑦【Buckle】

The buckle is engraved with a code (alphanumeric characters) called a clasp code. This code will tell you the year of manufacture, so make sure it matches. By the way, if there is a store that cannot give you a clear answer on this point, it may be best to refrain from purchasing from them.

⑧【Serial number】

It goes without saying, but make sure the serial number (individual identification number) engraved on the watch matches the serial number (individual identification number) printed on the warranty. Generally, there will be no mismatches, so if you find such a watch , it is best to refrain from purchasing it. (*There are rare cases where the numbers do not match due to mistakes by Rolex, etc.)

⑨【Accessories】

Accessories are important when evaluating a watch. The rating will change depending on which accessories are present.

The priority order of accessories is as follows:

1. Warranty
2. Box, booklet on the relevant model, tag that can identify the individual number, manufacturer's overhaul certificate, etc.
3. Regular booklets, tags, etc.

The most important thing is the warranty, and whether or not it is included can make a difference in value, ranging from tens of thousands to hundreds of thousands of yen. In addition, when it comes to vintage models, the vast majority of them do not come with a warranty, so if a watch comes with a warranty, it can be said to be a rare item.

summary

What did you think.

These are merely points to look at when purchasing, and even if a watch is in "poor condition," "inconsistent," or "missing accessories," it does not mean that it is not worth purchasing. What is important is whether the "price (evaluation)" is appropriate for its condition. However, it is extremely difficult to judge everything on your own, so first try asking questions about the nine points at the store where you plan to purchase. A store that can answer your questions clearly can be trusted, and conversely, if they cannot answer your questions, it may be better to hold off for a while.

Our website contains detailed information about the nine points mentioned in this article, so please take a look!

see you!