This time, as part of an introductory series, we will explain some of the unfamiliar words and abbreviations you hear in the luxury watch industry.
These are words that are familiar to people who love or are knowledgeable about luxury watches, but to those who are completely unfamiliar with them, they leave you confused...
It's in every industry.
In fact, when I first entered this industry, there were so many words and abbreviations that I didn't understand that I wondered if they were chanting spells or something (laughs).
Today, I would like to write about something that I believe may be of concern to others out there.
① "PP・AP"
・Patek Philippe (PP) ・Audemars Piguet (AP)
"PPAP"....Pen Pineapple Apple Pen? ?
If you hear this word, some people who don't know anything about luxury watches might think of something. (laughs)
Jokes aside, in the watch industry, "PP" and "AP" are two of the world's three biggest watch brands.
It stands for "Patek Philippe" and "Audemars Piguet".
When you hear these terms in casual conversation, you'll feel like they're familiar to you, so be sure to remember them.
② "Discontinued"
・A shortened version of the word "discontinued"
In the watch industry, this word is often bandied about before a new product is released.
"Discontinued" = discontinued production (manufacturing) = out of stock
When a watch is rumored to be discontinued or when it is confirmed that it will be discontinued, the market price of the watch changes significantly. The whole world is paying attention to which model will be discontinued. For luxury watches, which also serve as physical assets these days, it may be a good idea to be sensitive to this word.
③ "Smoseco"
・Abbreviation for small second
Generally, the second hand is usually placed in the center. In contrast, a small second hand is a small second hand that is placed in a non-center position. It is often seen at the 6 o'clock or 9 o'clock position.
4. "Bakibaki individual"
・Unpolished pieces with sharp edges = non-polished
At Commit Ginza, we call watches that have not been polished on the case or bracelet "bakibaki watches." When you hear this word, it's proof that the watch is of high quality!
Our executive advisor and appraiser, Mr. Kaneko, places great importance on this point.
5. "Single Tritium"
- Single buckle, all tritium specification
The word "single tri-color" is often heard when talking about semi-vintage Rolex products.
This is a popular specification found in models such as the Daytona, Explorer, and GMT Master, produced between the R series (1987) and T series (1996).
"Single" means that the buckle is a single type. From the T series onwards, the buckle is changed to a double buckle. Of course, the double buckle is more sturdy, but many people prefer the vintage look of the single buckle, so it is very popular.
Next, what is "Torich"? McDonald's hamburgers also have something like this (lol)
This refers to "tritium." This is the luminous paint that was used on the dial indexes and hands until around the U series (1997). The "tritium" (paint) burns off on each individual watch, causing changes over time. (*Not all watches) This is another element of enjoying the vintage atmosphere to the fullest. However, be careful, as when you have your watch overhauled at a Rolex, the tritium hands may be replaced with Luminova hands. Since this is a manufacturer repair, many people have the watch repaired (replaced) without any suspicion, and there are few all-tritium watches that have been maintained in their original condition, making them highly valued and in demand.
⑥ "Trichinova"
・Tritium-labelled but Luminova-equipped
Although it may not be a word you are familiar with, "Trichinova" is a combination of "tritium" and "LumiNova."
This is a rare specification found around the U series (1997) during the transitional period when the luminous material was switched from "Tritium" to "LumiNova". Although there are notations such as "SWISS-T<25" and "T SWISS MADE T" at the 6 o'clock position on the dial, the indexes and hands are "LumiNova" specifications. Since only a small number of these will be produced, they may become interesting in the future. It may become difficult to obtain them once their popularity increases.
7. Only Swiss
・Only "SWISS" is written at the 6 o'clock position
This is a specification that can be seen on the Submariner, Explorer, GMT Master, etc. It exists in the individual that was manufactured in about one year from the mid-U series (1997) to the mid-A series (1999) that was changed to the "LumiNova" specification. It may be interesting to look for it when buying a watch from around this period.
summary
What did you think of this content?
1⃣"PP/AP" = Patek Philippe/Audemars Piguet 2⃣"Discon" = Out of print 3⃣"Smoseco" = Small Second 4⃣"Crackling specimen" = Non-polished specimen = Superior specimen 5⃣"Single Tritium" = Single buckle + tritium 6⃣ "Tritinova" = Tritium but with Luminova 7⃣"Only Swiss" = Only "SWISS" written at 6 o'clock on the dial
As I explained each word, I felt a sense of nostalgia as I thought to myself, "I didn't know that back then." (laughs)
There are still many more words and abbreviations that we have not yet introduced, so please look forward to the introductory handover series.
see you!