What do you look for when choosing a mechanical watch?
Many people would probably answer "design," "functionality," and "asset value." Of course, appearance and resale value are very important points, but by gaining more knowledge and understanding about the historical background of brands and models, minor changes over the years, and so on, you will come to love watches even more and enjoy the fun of choosing one.

In this column, we will provide as much knowledge as possible about mechanical watches to both beginners and advanced users, and will provide in-depth dissection and explanation to help you choose the right watch.

This time, we will be focusing on the Rolex Submariner Ref. 114060 and Ref. 124060, so be sure to read to the end.

7th and 8th generation Submariner Ref. 114060, Ref. 124060

Seventh Generation Ref.114060 ~Basic Specifications~

The sixth generation Submariner "Ref. 14060M" was produced until 2012, but its successor, the seventh generation "Ref. 114060," was released in 2012. Then, in 2020, the eighth generation "Ref. 124060" was released. Let's start by taking a closer look at the seventh generation "Ref. 114060."

Year of manufacture: 2012-2020 Case size: 40mm
Bezel: Unidirectional (Cerachrom insert)
Windshield: Sapphire crystal Waterproof: 300m waterproof Bracelet: Oyster bracelet (97200)
Movement: Cal.3130
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations

The Ref. 114060 is the first Submariner non-date model to feature a Cerachrom bezel. The movement is the same Cal. 3130 as the Ref. 14060M.
(There have been changes to the hairspring), but the case design and bracelet have been strengthened, resulting in an overall more robust design.

①Case and bracelet

The "super case" adopted from "Ref.114060" has a conventional 40mm diameter, but the lugs and crown guards have been enlarged, giving it a more visually voluminous look. This change has resulted in a more powerful design, evolving into a modern style.


The bracelet is also equipped with a glide lock clasp, which allows fine adjustment without the need for tools. This not only improves the wearing comfort but also improves convenience when diving. The extension width of the glide lock system can be changed in 2mm increments up to a maximum of 20mm. In addition, the central link of the bracelet is also made of solid wood, which increases the sense of weight when worn.
Also, around 2015 (after July), the clasp of the buckle was changed from a rough matte finish to a mirror-like polished finish. As a result, even for random number watches, whose year cannot be determined without a warranty card, it is now possible to determine the approximate year by checking the clasp.

②Bezel

The "Ref.114060" has been changed from the previous aluminum insert to a "Cerachrom (ceramic) bezel". This Cerachrom bezel is scratch-resistant and does not fade easily due to UV rays, so it can maintain its beautiful condition for a long time. The scale part is platinum-coated, giving it a luxurious finish. Since it does not fade easily due to UV rays, it is unlikely to age as seen in previous models.

③Dial

There are no major changes to the dial design, and the "SWISS MADE" inscription at the 6 o'clock position continues. The most eye-catching difference is the improved visibility due to the larger indexes and hands. The indexes are made of Chromalight luminous material surrounded by a metal frame, which glows blue in the dark. Chromalight has a longer glow time than conventional Luminova, contributing to improved visibility.

Seventh Generation Summary

Compared to the previous model, the "Ref.114060" retains the basic specifications such as case size and water resistance, but the lug width and crown guard have been resized to increase the visual sense of size and improve robustness. The use of Chromalight for the indexes and hands luminous material has improved visibility in dark places, making the "Ref.114060" more practical.

It has been manufactured since 2012, starting with the G series, and was manufactured for approximately eight years until 2020. During that time, the design of the warranty card was changed in 2014, and the finish of the clasp was changed in 2015. Please note that prices vary depending on the year and specifications.

Eighth Generation Ref.124060 - Basic Specifications

The "Ref.124060" is the current non-date model of the "Submariner" series, and its biggest feature is that the case size has been enlarged to 41mm. In addition, the movement has been changed to Cal.3230, which has improved the power reserve to approximately 70 hours.

Year of manufacture: 2020-current (as of 2025)
Case size: 41mm
Bezel: Unidirectional (Cerachrom insert)
Windshield: Sapphire crystal Waterproof: 300m waterproof Bracelet: Oyster bracelet (97JB00)
Movement: Cal.3230
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations

①Case and bracelet

The case size of the "Ref.124060" has been changed to 41mm. However, because the lug width has been narrowed, the fit is not significantly different from the "Ref.114060", and it is even considered to be better balanced. The bracelet also has a more refined design with a more even overall proportion due to the wider lug width. The Glidelock system has been carried over from the previous model, and the size adjustment range remains the same, up to 20mm in 2mm increments.

② Movement

In the "Ref.124060", the Cal.3130 has been changed to the latest Cal.3230, and performance has been greatly improved. This movement is equipped with the "Chronergy escapement" developed exclusively by Rolex, which improves energy efficiency. The power reserve has been extended from the previous 48 hours to approximately 70 hours. In addition, magnetic resistance and shock resistance have been strengthened, making it possible to maintain higher accuracy.

③ Fine-tuning the design

The dial design and bezel are basically the same as the "Ref.114060", but there are some improvements in the details. In particular, the indexes and hands have become slightly thicker, further improving visibility. Chromalight is still used for the luminous material, and visibility in the dark remains good. In addition, a distinctive feature of the dial design of the 32 series new caliber model is that it has been changed to a specification with a crown mark between the "SWISS MADE" markings at the 6 o'clock position.

Summary of the Eighth Generation

The Ref.114060 is attractive for its traditional 40mm case size and simple design, while the Ref.124060 has been increased in size to 41mm, but the lug width has been adjusted to improve the fit. In addition, the long power reserve of approximately 70 hours provided by the Cal.3230 is weekend-proof, which is a great advantage for everyday use. It has only been in production for about five years, and the difference in price seems to be clearly determined by the presence or absence of accessories, the year of manufacture, and the condition of the individual watch.

summary

Both models are attractive and can be said to be the perfect embodiment of the Submariner.
Why not choose the one that best suits your style and the occasion?
See you in the next article!
See you later!

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