Dr. Ito's thorough analysis of mechanical watches!! Vol.33 ~ About the "bezel" of a wristwatch

Good evening everyone!

This column talks about mechanical watches from an engineer's point of view. This is the 33rd installment.

About the bezel

I will talk about this topic.

Do you know the meaning and role of a "bezel"?

There are many different types of bezels, and each one actually has a meaning. Even bezels that look ordinary at first glance have a reason for their existence.

Knowing the meaning of the bezel on the watch you already own or are planning to buy will help you love it even more.

So, this time I would like to explain the meaning of watch bezels and the various types available.

What is a bezel?

"Bezel" refers to the ring-shaped part around the crystal (glass) of a watch.

Originally meaning "frame" or "border," it refers to the outer frame of the LCD display of a computer or smartphone, but in the case of a watch, it refers to the outer edge of the dial, which corresponds to the face of the watch, or on the surface, the part that surrounds the outside of the crystal.

Its original role was to secure the crystal in place, but as watches have become more multifunctional and designs have evolved, the role of the bezel has changed over the years, and a variety of bezels have appeared, including those with scales that provide measurement functions and those adorned with precious stones such as diamonds.

Now let's take a look at the different types of bezels available.

Bezel Design

This time, I would like to focus on bezels, which are often used on dress watches.

1. Smooth (polished) bezel

This type of bezel, which has a mirror finish and a flat shape, is sometimes called a "polished bezel."

The most well-known model used here is the Rolex Datejust. With its simple design, it is a standard bezel that can be worn on or off the job, regardless of age.

In order to maintain a clean appearance even with diver's watches and chronographs, many brands choose to use a smooth bezel on the exterior and an inner bezel for functionality.

2. Fluted bezel

This refers to a bezel with evenly spaced jagged edges, and because the light changes depending on the angle, it sparkles every time you tilt your wrist. It is equipped on Rolex's solid gold and combination models, and is available in white gold (18KWG), yellow gold (18KYG), and pink gold (18KPG). In recent years, platinum (PT), a material that is considered difficult to process, has also been introduced.

Representative models include Rolex's Datejust (combination model), Day-Date, and Sky-Dweller, and some people abbreviate the combination of a fluted bezel and Jubilee bracelet, as shown in the image, to "Full Jubilee."

3. Bark Bezel

This "bark bezel," which means "bark," got its name from the fact that its irregular cuts resemble the bark of a tree.

The bezel decoration seen on Day-Date and Datejust models manufactured before the early 1990s has a unique and tasteful atmosphere. It is a detail that does not exist on current models, and it seems to be a popular design especially among vintage lovers.

4. Clou de Paris bezel

This bezel, which has delicate engravings that resemble a stud pattern, is a type of bezel that is often seen on historical models of Patek Philippe Calatrava, and is sure to be a must-have for watch enthusiasts.

Creating beautiful engravings requires a high level of skill, so it is rarely seen outside of long-established luxury brands, but it does exude elegance.

However, it is said that it is difficult to refinish if it is hit and dented, and this may be one of the reasons why it is often used in thin dress watches. Please be careful when handling it.

summary

This time, we have introduced some of the designs commonly seen on dress watches out of the many bezels available. From next time onwards, we will be introducing bezels used on sports models, so why not use this article as an opportunity to take a look at watches with a focus on bezels?

We hope that this article has been useful to you and has piqued your interest in luxury watches! If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us directly and we will answer them thoroughly. We look forward to your visit and inquiries.

Look forward to the next one! See you next time!