Dr. Ito's thorough analysis of mechanical watches!! Vol.33 ~ About the "bezel" of a wristwatch

Good evening, everyone!

This column discusses mechanical watches from an engineer's perspective. For the 33rd installment, we will be talking about

"All About Bezels"

as our theme.

Do you know the meaning and role of a "bezel"?

There are many types of bezels, and each one actually has a specific meaning. Even seemingly unremarkable bezels have a reason for their existence.

If you understand the meaning of the bezel on a watch you are about to purchase or already own, you will be able to appreciate that timepiece even more.

So, this time, I'd like to explain the meaning of watch bezels and their diverse types.

What is a bezel?

A "bezel" refers to the ring-shaped part around a watch's crystal (glass).

Originally, it meant "frame" or "border" and referred to the outer frame of an LCD display on devices like computers and smartphones. In watches, however, it refers to the part of the watch's face that surrounds the outer circumference of the dial, and superficially, the component that encircles the outside of the crystal.

Its original role was to secure the crystal, but with the multifunctionality of watches and the evolution of design, the role of bezels has changed over the years. Various bezels have emerged, including those with scales for measurement functions and those adorned with diamonds and other gemstones.

Now, let's take a look at the types of bezels available.

Bezel designs

This time, I'd like to focus on bezels commonly used in dress watches.

1. Smooth (Polished) Bezel

This bezel, which has a mirror finish and a flat shape, is sometimes referred to as a "polished bezel."

A prime example of a model using this is the Rolex Datejust. Its simple design makes it a standard bezel that can be worn for any occasion, by any age group.

For diver's watches and chronographs, many brands intentionally use a smooth bezel for the exterior to maintain a clean appearance, while incorporating an inner bezel for functionality.

2. Fluted Bezel

This bezel, which features evenly spaced fluted grooves, changes in brightness depending on the angle of the light, making it sparkle every time you tilt your wrist. It is fitted on Rolex full-gold and Rolesor models and comes in white gold (18KWG), yellow gold (18KYG), and pink gold (18KPG) materials. In recent years, platinum (PT) versions, which were previously considered difficult to process, have also appeared.

Representative models include the Rolex Datejust (Rolesor models), Day-Date, and Sky-Dweller. Some people even shorten the combination of a fluted bezel and Jubilee bracelet, as shown in the image, to "Full Jubi."

3. Bark Bezel

This "bark bezel," named for its resemblance to tree bark due to its irregular incisions, literally means "tree bark."

It's a bezel decoration seen on Day-Date and Datejust models manufactured before the early 1990s, characterized by its distinctive and appealing atmosphere. This detail is not found on current models, giving it the impression of being a popular design, especially among vintage enthusiasts.

4. Clous de Paris Bezel

This bezel, with its delicate hobnail-like engraving, is often seen on historic models such as the Patek Philippe Calatrava, and it might just be an irresistible bezel for watch enthusiasts.

Since creating such intricate engravings requires a high level of technical skill, it is rarely adopted by brands other than established luxury brands, exuding an air of elegance.

However, it is said to be difficult to refinish if a dent or scratch is made, and perhaps this is also why it is often adopted for thin dress watches. Please handle with extreme care.

Summary

This time, I introduced some of the bezel designs commonly found on dress watches from among the many types available. In future articles, I will introduce bezels used in sports models and other types, so I hope this article will inspire you to take a closer look at watches with an eye on their bezels.

I hope this article has provided useful information for all of you and sparked even a little interest in luxury watches! Also, if you have any questions, please feel free to ask us directly, and we will be happy to answer them thoroughly. We look forward to your visit and inquiries.

Look forward to the next time! See you then!