Hello everyone.
Today, we would like to present to you the latest 2022 edition of mechanical watches, "10 recommended models from Patek Philippe."
Commit Ginza Owner: Abe writes " Patek Theory " every week, so I have not mentioned Patek Philippe, but I would like to introduce it at last. (Laughs) Owner: I will also introduce Abe's " Patek Theory ", so please enjoy until the end.
- ① "World Time" "Ref.5110J-001"
- 2. Perpetual Calendar Chronograph: Ref. 3970EJ-051
- ➂ "Annual Calendar Chronograph" "Ref.5960/1A-001"
- ④ "10 Days Millennium" "Ref.5100G-001"
- ⑤ "Calatrava" "Ref. 5196P-001"
- ⑥ "Calatrava" "Ref.6119R-001"
- 7. Nautilus "Ref.5711/1A-010"
- 8. Aquanaut "Ref.5167/1A-001"
- 9. Calatrava Pilot Travel Time "Ref. 5524R-001"
- 10. Perpetual Calendar Chronosplit "Ref.5004P"
- Summary
① "World Time" "Ref.5110J-001"
*Source: https://www.commit-watch.co.jp/buyer/watches/mens/patek_philippe/patek-philippe-other/worldtime-43/
The World Time is equipped with a mechanism that allows you to read the time by combining the major cities of the world. The Cal. 240 HU installed in this watch originates from the Cal. 515 HU developed by Louis Cottier, an independent watchmaker active in Geneva from the 1920s to the 1960s. It is a groundbreaking movement in which the clock in the center displays the main time, and the disk on the outer periphery displays the world time. It is a very easy function to operate, as you rotate the city disk by pressing the push button at the 10 o'clock position. This model can still be said to be one of the identities of Patek Philippe.
Speaking of "World Time," there are "Ref.5110," "Ref.5130," and "Ref.5230," but the most recommended is "Ref.5110," with its leaf hands, beautiful guilloche engraving in the center of the dial, and the perfect size of a 37mm case. Each has its merits, but this is a model that the owner, Abe, also featured in the first "Patek Theory" article, so it's a watch that you should definitely pick up and experience its complete beauty.
2. Perpetual Calendar Chronograph: Ref. 3970EJ-051
*Source: https://www.commit-watch.co.jp/buyer/watches/mens/patek_philippe/patek-philippe-other/perpetual-calendar-173845/
This model was produced from around 1986 to around 2004 and is the third generation of the "Ref. 3970." Among these, the early models had baton-shaped indexes and leaf-shaped hands. In later models, the indexes were changed to triangle-shaped and the hands were also changed to baton-shaped, and I think the earlier models win out in terms of general popularity.
The case back is also an important point, with the first generation being a snap back, the second generation being a screw back, and the third generation being a see-through back (with a closed back). The movement is the well-known "Cal.CH 27-70 Q" hand-wound movement, an improved version of the ebauche "Cal.2310" made by "Nouvelle Lemania". If you want to fully enjoy the beautiful movement, the see-through back specification is an important point.
The case diameter is 36mm, a comfortable size for Japanese people, but it is surprising how the perpetual calendar mechanism and chronograph mechanism are smartly arranged. Its beauty is hard to describe, and out of all the Patek Philippe models, this is the one I want the most.
➂ "Annual Calendar Chronograph" "Ref.5960/1A-001"
*Source: https://www.commit-watch.co.jp/buyer/watches/mens/patek_philippe/patek-philippe-other/annual-calendar-203173/
This "Annual Calendar Chronograph" was announced at Baselworld in 2014. It is a complication model with a sporty impression, with a red chronograph hand that is not often seen in Patek Philippe. As you all know, Patek Philippe rarely uses stainless steel as a material, except for a few models, but this watch uses stainless steel for both the case and the bracelet.
The drop-link 5-link bracelet is the first to be made of stainless steel, and is well-known for its comfort. The movement is Cal. CH28-520 IRM QA 24H, and the vertical clutch allows the chronograph hand to be operated as a center second hand. The three push buttons on the 9 o'clock side of the case allow you to adjust the month, date, and day of the week.
The "Ref. 5960/1A-001" was a short-lived model that only lasted about three years, so there are few units in circulation these days and the price seems to be gradually rising. If you are interested, we recommend that you grab it as soon as possible. Incidentally, the "Ref. 5960/1A-010" with a black dial, which was released in 2017 to replace the "Ref. 5960/1A-001", is an even rarer model that was only produced for an even shorter period of time, only one year.
④ "10 Days Millennium" "Ref.5100G-001"
*Source: https://www.commit-watch.co.jp/buyer/watches/mens/patek_philippe/patek-philippe-other/10days-229957/
This rare limited edition model was released in 2000 to commemorate the millennium. Its unique case design is its biggest feature, and it is said to have been inspired by the Ref. 2554 that appeared in the 1950s. It is also known as the Manta Ray because the case shape resembles a manta ray. The dial has a calm blue color close to navy, giving it an elegant impression, and as you can imagine from the model name "10 Days", the movement is a 10-day square movement "Cal. 28-20/220". You can view the movement from the case back, and many people will be captivated by its beauty.
As this is a commemorative model, it comes with a special box, booklet, commemorative medal, etc. It can be difficult to find a complete model, but we recommend that you try to find as complete a piece as possible.
18KYG (yellow gold) x white dial {1,500 pieces}
18KRG (rose gold) x grey dial {750 pieces}
18KWG (white gold) x blue dial {450 pieces}
Platinum x black dial (300 units)
⑤ "Calatrava" "Ref. 5196P-001"
*Source: https://www.commit-watch.co.jp/buyer/watches/mens/patek_philippe/calatrava/calatrava-85/
This platinum model has a design reminiscent of the first Calatrava, released in 1932, the Ref. 96, popularly known as "Kunroku." It features Arabic indexes and Breguet numerals.
The Calatrava is characterized by its round case, bar indexes, dauphine (dolphin) hands, flat bezel, and lugs that are integrated with the case and have flowing curves, but I'm sure there are many Patek Philippe fans who are excited by the Breguet numerals. The two-tone dial, which is only available in platinum, and the 37mm case size that fits comfortably on the wrist make this the most recommended model among the many Calatravas.
⑥ "Calatrava" "Ref.6119R-001"
*Source: https://www.commit-watch.co.jp/buyer/watches/mens/patek_philippe/calatrava/calatrava-160302/
While following the design of the "Ref. 5119" that was discontinued in 2019, this watch has a larger case diameter of 39mm and its biggest feature is the bezel with a "Clou de Paris (hobnail pattern)". The bezel has a pyramidal studded pattern instead of a flat bezel, which gives it a completely different impression from the aforementioned "Ref. 5196". A flat bezel is prone to showing wear and scratches, but this one is also notable for its less noticeable scratches.
The "Ref. 6119R-001" has an elegant contrast between the grained silver dial and the 18KPG (pink gold) case, but the "Ref. 6119G-001" was also released around the same time, combining an 18KWG (white gold) case with a gray dial.
By eliminating unnecessary elements to the maximum extent possible, it is not only simple and beautiful, but also carefully constructed without compromise, which is why it is said to be synonymous with dress watches. I would definitely recommend this watch to anyone who is thinking of buying a dress watch.
7. Nautilus "Ref.5711/1A-010"
*Source: https://www.commit-watch.co.jp/buyer/watches/mens/patek_philippe/nautilus/nautilus-221851/
The Nautilus was released in 2006 and was sadly discontinued in 2021. Models with attractive functions and designs such as "Petite Complications", "Chronographs", and "Travel Time" have been released, but the Tiffany blue dial of the "Ref. 5711/1A-018", which attracted attention at the Phillips Auction in December 2021, is still fresh in everyone's memory due to the shocking bid price. Of course, the "Ref. 5711/1A-010" is also one of the models that is difficult to get your hands on, as it is priced at over 10 million yen despite being a stainless steel model.
It seems that the price has calmed down compared to the high prices that were seen at one time, but since it is already a discontinued model, the number of good examples and older models on the market is expected to decrease. If you have been thinking, "I want to own one someday!", now may be your chance.
8. Aquanaut "Ref.5167/1A-001"
*Source: https://www.commit-watch.co.jp/buyer/watches/mens/patek_philippe/aquanaut/aquanaut-226396/
The Aquanaut was released in 1997 as a luxury sports model following the Nautilus. Like the Nautilus, it has released models with attractive designs and functions such as chronographs and travel time.
The reason we're introducing this bracelet model is because we want to suggest that you purchase the rubber strap and buckle separately from the manufacturer, so that you can enjoy both. Of course, you can purchase the rubber strap model and then purchase the bracelet from the manufacturer at a later date, but the price difference between the two is about three times... Considering that there is almost no difference in the selling price between the bracelet model "Ref. 5167A/1A-001" and the rubber strap model "Ref. 5167A-001" on the secondary market, this is a great deal.
The market price of the Aquanaut seems to have calmed down a bit compared to the period when it was skyrocketing. Regardless of the strap specifications, it may be a good idea to grab a watch in good condition.
*Trivia: Patek Philippe references feature the notations "/" and "-", with bracelet specifications being set as "/" and rubber or leather strap specifications being set as "-".
Stainless steel bracelet 《¥531,300 (tax included)》
Rubber strap 《¥38,000 (tax included)》
Holding buckle 《¥147,800 (tax included)》
9. Calatrava Pilot Travel Time "Ref. 5524R-001"
*Source: https://www.commit-watch.co.jp/buyer/watches/mens/patek_philippe/calatrava/calatrava-202009/
Created as a homage to the tradition of aviator watches made in the 1930s, the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time is a complication model that has a sporty and casual impression that sets it apart from Patek Philippe's dress watches, and its slightly offbeat feel is its charm.
The brown sunburst dial, which gradually turns black towards the outer periphery of the 18KRG (rose gold) case, gives an elegant impression, and the use of a calfskin strap instead of an alligator strap is also a plus. The movement is the Cal.26-324 SC FUS, and the local time hour hand can be set independently by operating the push buttons at the 8 and 10 o'clock positions. If you find the 42mm case too large, there is also the 37.5mm diameter "Ref.7234R-001". Since it is a seven-headed reference, it is classified as a ladies' watch, but it has an outstanding presence. You can choose according to your wrist size and preferences.
10. Perpetual Calendar Chronosplit "Ref.5004P"
*Source: https://www.commit-watch.co.jp/buyer/watches/mens/patek_philippe/patek-philippe-other/perpetual-calendar-6/
This "Ref. 5004" is a grand complication model equipped with a perpetual calendar, split-second chronograph, and moon phase, and is a watch that any watch enthusiast would aspire to own at least once.
Like the non-split-second "Ref. 3970," the movement is the hand-wound "Cal. CHR 27-70 Q," an improved version of the well-known "Nouvelle Lemania" ebauche "Cal. 2310." The watch is fitted with a perpetual calendar and split-second chronograph mechanism in a case just 37mm in diameter, and due to the difficulty of the manufacturing process at the time, it was said that production was limited to one per month, or about 12 per year.
In fact, there are unique pieces of the "Ref. 5004P," including those with Breguet numeral indexes and salmon dials. It's impossible to imagine how much it would be worth now, but the "Ref. 5004" reigns supreme in the Patek Philippe collection. It's the ultimate watch that makes you want to own it someday.
"Ref.5004P-030" "Arabic index"
"Ref.5004P-032" "Bucket Diamond"
"Ref.5004P-033" {Index Diamond}
summary
We have introduced a wide range of watches, from current models to auction pieces. Did you find anything that caught your eye?
Patek Philippe is known as a brand that has been called the top of the industry for its tradition, design, and functionality. There are still many attractive models, so if you come to the store, please feel free to ask the owner, Abe, for advice.
see you!