Bezel

When you look at watch magazines, do you often see the word "bezel"?

If you're not very knowledgeable about watches, it's natural to wonder, "What is a bezel, anyway?"

In this article, we will explain the meaning of "bezels" in a way that is easy to understand even for beginners. We will also introduce in detail the types of "bezels" that each brand offers.

By the end of this article, you will not only understand the meaning of bezels, but also their different types.

Also, from now on, you will be able to pay more attention to the bezel when looking at a watch, so be sure to read it.

Popular watches sell out quickly. Sign up for LINE@ to get the information before someone else does!

Also, if you have a watch that looks expensive but you don't know its value, please feel free to contact us at Commit Ginza and we will purchase it from you at the highest price in the industry !

What is a bezel on a watch?

A bezel is a ring-shaped part that goes around the crystal part (windshield) of the watch.

The bezel used to simply serve as a part to support the glass of the watch, but now the look of a watch can change dramatically depending on the type of bezel.

Looking at the bezel is very important when choosing a watch.

Now, let's take a look at the different types of bezels available.

Types of bezels on watches

Bezel Type 1: Polished Bezel (Smooth Bezel)

The polished bezel (smooth bezel) is the standard bezel used in many luxury watches .

The product has a mirror finish (polished finish), which makes it shine so beautifully that it reflects light like a mirror and objects are reflected in it. This mirror-like finish depends on the skill of the craftsman, so it is also an important element in determining the strength of a brand.

The main materials used are stainless steel and platinum.

Rolex, a luxury watch brand, mainly uses it in the Explorer 1 .

Bezel Type 2: Fluted Bezel

This bezel is "fluted," which means it has vertical stripes .

As you can see, the bezel has an impressive vertical jagged edge, which, combined with the gold material, gives it an original appeal. It has a glossy look and is perfect for situations where you want to stand out in a glamorous setting.

Not only is the fluted bezel available in gold, but it is also available in silver.

The fluted bezel is found on the Rolex Datejust Ref. 1601.

Bezel Type 3: Engine Turned Bezel

The engine turned bezel was named after the way an aircraft engine turns .

The smooth bezel is carved so that the uncarved parts appear rod-shaped.

The processing method is different from that of a fluted bezel, which has a mountain-shaped cut.

The engine turned bezel is the type found on Rolex's Oyster Perpetual Date.

Bezel Type 4: Finely Engine Turned Bezel

The finely engine turned bezel is basically the same as an engine turned bezel, but this bezel has indexes that look like slightly thick bars spaced every 5 minutes , as shown in the image.

Finely means "wonderfully" or "delicately".

For this reason, it can be assumed that the Finely Engine Turned Bezel was created as an evolution of the Engine Turned Bezel.

The finely engine turned bezel is found on Rolex Air-King and Oyster Perpetual models.

Bezel Type 5: Ceramic Bezel

A ceramic bezel is just that, a bezel made of ceramic.

By the way, the ceramic material patented by Rolex is called "Cerachrom" .

Ceramics are known as a material with extremely high hardness and are also used in dental treatment.

Conventional stainless steel and aluminum bezels had problems such as discoloration due to ultraviolet rays and being easily scratched.

The ceramic bezel is highly scratch-resistant and UV-resistant to prevent fading.

For this reason, Rolex is increasingly using bezels such as the GMT-Master II as they are resistant to deterioration over time.

Bezel Type 6: Unidirectional rotating bezel

A unidirectional bezel is a bezel that only rotates in one direction when turned.

There is a scale, and by aligning the minute hand with the inverted triangle part at the 12 o'clock position, you can know the elapsed time since you set it.

Unidirectional rotating bezels are widely used in diver's watches, mainly for measuring the duration of oxygen tanks . The reason they are prevented from rotating in reverse is because if the bezel were to move accidentally, it could be life-threatening if the elapsed time is measured too short.

Of course, it can also be used smartly to measure time in your daily life and work.

For Rolex, this bezel is found on the Submariner and Sea-Dweller.

Bezel Type 7: Bi-rotating Bezel

A bi-rotating bezel does not have a reverse rotation prevention function and is a bezel that rotates in both directions. The Rolex GMT Master is a famous model equipped with this bezel.

The GMT Master is a watch for pilots and people who like to travel abroad. In addition to the hour, minute and second hands, the fourth hand, the GMT hand, points in the direction that indicates the time in the country of arrival.

Bezel Type 8. Bark Finish


Source: bachmann-scher.de

Bark means tree bark. The bezel is called a bark-finished bezel because it is engraved to resemble tree bark.

The bark-finished bezel is highly finished and exudes a dreamlike atmosphere. The bark-finished bezel also has a slightly different shape to match the model image.

If you come across a bark-finished bezel, it might be interesting to observe what pattern it has.

The Burgundy finish is the type of bezel seen on Rolex Datejusts and similar models.

Bezel Type 9: Jewelry Bezel

The jeweled bezel is a model that features a bezel adorned with jewels, typically diamonds.

Its brilliance makes it perfect for any elegant setting.

This is a watch that should be treated more as a piece of jewelry than as a wristwatch.

Many luxury brands sell jeweled bezels as high-end models (luxury items). You can also see jeweled bezels on the Rolex GMT Master II.

Bezel Type 10: Tachymeter Bezel (Chronograph)

A tachymeter is a bezel with a scale that allows you to calculate speed per hour from time . Rolex's Daytona is famous for this.

This type of bezel is found on watches with a chronograph (stopwatch) function, as well as telemeter and pulse meter bezels.

Please see this article for an explanation of each meter on a chronograph watch.

Bezel Type 11: Clous de Paris

The Clous de Paris is a jagged bezel that resembles a series of small pyramids connected together . The famous Patek Philippe Calatrava is known for using the Clous de Paris.

"Clou de Paris" is also the name of a traditional technique and means "Claws of Paris".

It is a very beautiful piece and shows the craftsmanship of a skilled artisan.

Bezel Type 12. Screw-fastened bezel

→Go to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver Boutique Exclusive page

A screw-set bezel is one that has screws driven into it to increase its water resistance.

This bezel is typical of the luxury watch brand "Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak." It is characterized by an octagonal bezel with a total of eight screws evenly spaced apart.

Nowadays, technological advances have made screws less necessary, but they remain a signature design element of the Royal Oak.

If you're particular about the bezel, Rolex is the way to go! 3 recommended models

Even among luxury brands, Rolex pays particular attention to its bezels.

For example, the Cerachrom (ceramic) bezel, which has recently been adopted by many models, is a reflection of Rolex's attention to detail.

Cerachrom is a material developed and patented by Rolex. This bezel is resistant to UV rays, corrosion, and scratches.

From here on, we will introduce some Rolex models with distinctive bezels that you should definitely have.

Recommended Rolex Model 1: Daytona Ref.116500LN

This is a popular model that is indispensable when talking about Rolex, as it is the only Rolex equipped with a chronograph (stop) function.

The bezel is made of Cerachrom (ceramic) material, which is highly scratch-resistant and fade-resistant, making it a watch that you can wear for the rest of your life .

Additionally, the bezel features a tachymeter.


Recommended Rolex Model 2: GMT Master II Ref.16710

The two-tone bidirectional rotating bezel is one of the most popular features of the GMT-Master II and is a distinctive design that represents Rolex .

The red and blue bezels in particular are very popular, and as their prices are unlikely to drop, they are also recommended as a watch investment .


Recommended Rolex Model 3: Rolex Explorer II Ref.16570

The Explorer II is a watch made for cave exploration.

The numerals engraved on the bezel and the fourth 24-hour hand allow you to tell the difference between day and night at a glance.

This is a useful feature when you go to a place where it's hard to tell day from night.


summary

In this article, we have introduced the "bezel," which is a feature that always appears on watches.
A bezel is a ring-shaped part that surrounds the glass, and as I mentioned earlier, there are many different types of bezels.

  • Polished bezel (smooth bezel) with a mirror-like shine
  • Beautiful fluted bezel with mountain-shaped cut
  • Engine-turned bezel with evenly spaced grooves
  • Finely engine turned bezel with cutting stops every 5 minutes
  • Fade- and scratch-resistant ceramic bezel
  • A unidirectional rotating bezel that measures time and protects divers' lives
  • Bi-rotating bezels, such as the GMT Master
  • Artistic bark finish with carved bark
  • As the name suggests, this is a jeweled bezel that is highly valued as jewelry.
  • Tachymeters in chronograph watches
  • The Clos de Paris is characterized by the beauty of its pyramid formations.
  • A screw-fastened bezel that is both waterproof and stylish

In addition, we have introduced the following model from Rolex, a brand known for its distinctive bezels.

  • Daytona Ref. 116500LN with a ceramic bezel and tachymeter
  • The popular two-tone GMT Master II with a bi-rotating bezel, Ref. 16710
  • Explorer II Ref.16570 with a distinctive 24-hour bezel

This time, we introduced you to the bezel.
What kind of bezel did you like?

The look of a watch can change dramatically with just one bezel. If you are thinking of buying a luxury watch, why not pay attention to the bezel when choosing a watch?

If you are having trouble choosing a watch that has a distinctive bezel but are unable to decide on one, please consult Commit Ginza. Our experienced appraisers who are well versed in luxury watches will be happy to assist you , so please feel free to stop by.

時計初心者向け