Yasuharu Abe's Theory of Patek Philippe - Part 8 - Annual Calendar II

Hello everyone.

This weekend, the streets of Ginza were bustling again, and we had many customers visit our store for the first time in a while. Thank you. As the word "social distancing" suggests, we kept a certain distance and required masks, and the streets have changed a little since before. I'm happy to see the city come back to life, but at the same time, I feel a little lonely.

We are taking measures at the store, but we will not be too focused on "social distancing" and will strive to provide customer service that puts the customer first, so please feel free to visit us. *For information on the operation system from June onwards, please click here ⇒ https://www.commit-watch.co.jp/news/commitjune/

Well, this time I would like to continue talking about the "annual calendar".

Limited model "Advanced Research"

First, I would like to talk about the limited edition model "Advanced Research."

*Ref.5250G

In the same year as the release of the Ref.5146, which I mentioned the other day, Patek Philippe released the annual calendar model Ref.5250G, limited to 100 pieces, as the first in their Advanced Research series, which pursues cutting-edge technology. It looked the same as the Ref.5146, but it was equipped with a movement based on the Cal.315 used in the Ref.5035, and an escape wheel made of Silinvar®, a silicon-based material. (*The official domestic sales price at the time was the same as the Ref.5146.)

*Ref.5350R

The following year, in 2006, the second Advanced Research model was released as a limited edition of 300 pieces, the rose gold annual calendar Ref. 5350R. The movement was changed to Cal. 324, and a Spiromax® hairspring made of Silinvar® was adopted in addition to the escape wheel.

*Ref.5450P

Then, in 2008, the final model of "Advanced Research" was released, the "Ref. 5450P" with a platinum case and salmon dial, limited to 300 pieces. The escapement of this model is called Pulsomax®, and the anchor material was also changed to Silinvar®. "Advanced Research" itself was a project to siliconize the balance spring, which is the heart of a mechanical watch, and the escape wheel and anchor that make up the escapement. I don't think the watch needed to be an annual calendar, but I think it's interesting that they chose to use the second-generation annual calendar "Ref. 5146" as the base.

Masterpiece "Ref.5396"

In 2006, 10 years after the release of the first "Annual Calendar" "Ref. 5035", the "Ref. 5396" was released, featuring an "Annual Calendar" in a Calatrava case. The "Ref. 5396" has had additional dials released and has been discontinued, and is still on sale today.

*Ref.5396

The motif of this dial design is the "sector dial" that was used by antique Patek Philippe watches up until the 1950s, and was also called the "Tokyo dial" because of its appearance. I remember that the unique and distinctive dial caught my eye when I first saw it. The case design was impressive with its flat bezel that reminded me of Calatrava's masterpiece "Ref.96", commonly known as "Kunroku". Furthermore, the double guiche design (two small windows lined up at the 12 o'clock position) reminiscent of Patek Philippe's representative perpetual calendar model "Ref.3448" had only been used in models called Grand Complications, but it was first installed in the "Ref.5396".

Four years later, in 2010, production of the unique triple circle dial was discontinued and it was replaced with a solid, classic dial combination of dolphin hands and bar indexes. Of the many annual calendar models available, I believe this is the one that most strongly reflects the tradition of Patek Philippe.

In 2013, a model with a luxurious gold bracelet called "Drop Link" was released in WG (white gold) and RG (rose gold) cases.

*Ref.5396/1R-010

The elegant color is impeccable, and it is truly a top brand watch. We have a sales record of both, and they are excellent products that we would like to carry at any time.

＊ WG results can be found here: https://www.commit-watch.co.jp/buyer/watches/mens/patek_philippe/anual-calendar/

20th Anniversary Model

The "Ref. 5396G-014" was released as a commemorative model in 2016 to mark the 20th anniversary of the release of the Annual Calendar.

*5396G-014

The indexes have been changed from the conventional bars to Breguet Arabic numerals. Only the WG case comes with a dial base color of charcoal gray sunburst, which has never been available before. Personally, I love this dial, I think it's cool, and it's a model I'd like to try someday.

The following year, in 2017, two new models with blue dials and different indexes were added to the RG case only: the gold bar index "Ref. 5396R-014" and the baguette diamond bar index "Ref. 5396-015".

Extremely rare model "Ref.5396G-012"

Finally, I would like to talk about a rare model of the "Ref. 5396". It is the "Ref. 5396G-012", a double-brand model with the leading American jewelry brand "TIFFANY".

*5396G-012

This is an extremely rare model, limited to 100 pieces, sold in 2013 to commemorate the 5th anniversary of the Patek Philippe boutique in the Tiffany store in New York. The WG case features a glossy black dial with Breguet Arabic math indexes, luminous leaf hands, and the words "TIFFANY & Co." above the moon phase at 6 o'clock. The case bag is also engraved with "PATEK PHILIPPE ・A SHARED VISION ・2008-2013 ・TIFFANY & CO." This is a model that enthusiasts will drool over.

That's all for today, but when I start writing about "annual calendars," there are quite a few models I would like to introduce, so I would like to continue in the next post.

See you later!