Good evening everyone.
Last Friday, it snowed in Tokyo (it was light around my house), but I hope you're taking care of your health and not getting injured by the frozen roads. As you get older, you realize that your body isn't as strong as you thought it was, and you realize the importance of exercise, but at the same time, you start to feel old. (laughs)
Anyway, leaving my story aside, this time I would like to introduce the "Perpetual Calendar Chronograph" "Ref. 3970EG-001" that I recommend whenever I have the chance. Since the start of Commit Ginza (hereafter referred to as our store), only a few pieces have arrived, including different case materials. This is a rare model. The price has been gradually increasing, so I hope you will be interested in it after reading this column.
"Ref.3970EG-001"
"Perpetual Calendar Chronograph" 18KWG
The "Ref. 3970", whose specifications vary depending on the sales period, is a model that tickles the hearts of watch enthusiasts and attracts many watch and Patek Philippe fans because of its variety. Let's start by giving a quick review of the "Ref. 3970".
*Ref.2499 Reference: PHILLIPS
The second generation of the perpetual calendar chronograph model was the Ref. 2499. Its successor, the Ref. 3970, was released in 1986.
*Ref.3970 (first generation) Reference: SOTHEBY’S
Only 100 of the first generation were produced, and their distinctive features were a closed snapback caseback and different colored subdials, giving them a classic look with a strong contrast. I think I may have seen one at an overseas watch auction, and it's so rare that I would love to have it in our store someday.
*Ref.3971 Reference: PHILLIPS
By the way, there is also a model called "Ref. 3971" that was released around the same time. This model had a sapphire skeleton case back.
*Ref.3970 (second generation)
The second generation was manufactured from 1986 to 1991.
The leaf-shaped hands and bar indexes remain the same as the first generation, but the sub-dials are now the same color as the dial. Most of the case backs are closed with screws, but there are also models with skeletonized backs made very late in the production period (around 1986-1991). In fact, the "Ref. 3970EJ-051" that arrived at our store in March last year is exactly that kind of watch, and we received inquiries from several customers at the time, leading to its immediate sale.
The leaf hands, which give off a classic atmosphere, were only seen on the first and second generations of the Ref. 3970. Since the production period was short at just five years, there are very few of them on the market, and I think many people are searching for them.
Then came the third generation, the Ref. 3970E, which we will introduce here.
The "E" in "Ref.3970E" stands for "etanche" in French, which means "waterproof." It is a screw-down type, and is sold with a closed back and a sapphire crystal see-through back as a set. There are various theories, but one is that it was introduced in response to a series of individual orders from customers for the "Ref.3970" model skeleton back.
The dial's indexes have changed from baton to triangle type, and the hands have changed from leaf hands to baton hands.
The "Ref. 3970" itself seems to have become extremely scarce on the market for some time now, but I think this generation is the one that was produced the most. From past experience, the 18KYG (yellow gold) case is the most widely distributed, and the combination of 18KWG (white gold) case and silver dial that has arrived this time is surprisingly few in number.
Some people may find the case size of 36mm to be a little small, but it never feels small because of its presence. Like the Rolex hand-wound Daytona and Day Date, the classic size is in high demand and is especially popular among slender Japanese people. The small calendar window at 12 o'clock, the registers at 3 and 9 o'clock, the moon phase at 9 o'clock, the date display on the outer periphery, the minute scale on the outer periphery of the dial, and the dial design... I think it's perfectly balanced.
The location of the hallmark varies depending on the production period and generation, but one of the most popular features is that it is engraved on the side of the lug. By the way, there are also many models that have the hallmark engraved on the back of the lug.
The 13mm thickness of the case is plump compared to the 36mm case size, and the cute shape is irresistible. I think this thickness is one of the reasons why the watch doesn't feel small. The Calatrava cross crown also has a strong presence.
The renowned "Cal. CH 27-70 Q" movement, based on Lemania and visible through the sapphire crystal back, is simply beautiful.
Deciphering the four-digit alphabet printed at the bottom of the warranty, we can see that this watch was manufactured in August 1993. This is one of the watches manufactured relatively early after the switch to the third generation. At that time, the watch still had a pin buckle rather than a D-buckle, and the pin buckle was more square than mountain-shaped.
Accessories include a warranty, pass case, booklets, serial tag, closed back cover, adjustment pin, and a box with some damage on the inside but in which the adjustment pin can be set, making it a great collector's item.
The selling price you are interested in is...
★★★ COMING SOON ★★★
I'm sorry. I'm currently sending it to the manufacturer for maintenance (overhaul), and as it is being handled in Geneva, it will be a while before it goes on sale.
There are almost no "Ref. 3970"s currently being sold in Japan, and even if it is the third generation, it is difficult to find one in good condition with all the accessories even overseas. Because it is such a rare piece, we are introducing it to you in advance! Please look forward to the new arrival!!!
summary
What did you think.
I'm anxiously waiting for it to come back from the maintenance (overhaul) and I'm sure everyone reading this article feels the same way. It will take a little time, so please be patient!
Once again, I hope that by reading this article, the appeal of luxury watches and Patek Philippe will be conveyed to as many people as possible.
see you!