Yasuharu Abe's Patek Philippe Theory - No. 140 - Introducing the rarest and most extraordinary models available in 2022

Good evening everyone.

The Qatar World Cup was getting more and more exciting every day, but after 120 minutes of fierce fighting, no decision was made and the match ended in a penalty shootout with Argentina winning. Unfortunately, the Japanese national team did not make it to the quarterfinals, but I'm sure many people were encouraged by their courage in taking on a strong country. Let's look forward to the 2026 World Cup to see what kind of battle they will show us next!

Well, there are only a few more days left in 2022, but this year I was able to encounter many wonderful Patek Philippe watches. Today I would like to introduce some of the most memorable models. I will also introduce many extremely rare models, so please read to the end.

"Ref.5207G-001"
"Minute Repeater Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar" 18KWG

First, here is a model that arrived at the beginning of this year. This watch was announced as a new model for 2018, and features an 18KWG (white gold) case with hand-engraved decoration, gold applied indexes, and a blue sunburst dial that enhance its beauty. According to the official website, this is the only watch in the current Patek Philippe collection that is equipped with a minute repeater, tourbillon, and instantaneous date-advance perpetual calendar. It is similar to the Annual Calendar Ref. 5205, but of course, they are not the same. The hand-engraved finish is beautiful, befitting a special model.

The movement is simply beautiful. The balance is equipped with a "tourbillon" that rotates once every 60 seconds, which cancels out posture differences and boasts high precision. And the "minute repeater" strikes a gong that surrounds the outer circumference of the movement with two hammers on the right of the photo, announcing the time with a sound. This is definitely the number one model of the year.

"Ref.5976/1G-001"
"Nautilus Chronograph" 40th Anniversary Model 18KWG

This watch was released in 2016 to commemorate the 40th anniversary of the Nautilus, with a 18KWG (white gold) case and bracelet, and is limited to 1,300 pieces worldwide. It features a beautiful sunburst and blue PVD dial with bucket-cut diamond indexes. The "1976-40-2016" engraved under the brand logo at the 12 o'clock position emphasizes that this is a special model commemorating the 40th anniversary.

As you can see from the reference (model number), the base model is "Ref. 5980", but in addition to the largest case size of 44mm for the Nautilus, both the case and bracelet are made of 18KWG (white gold), so it feels quite heavy. When we actually measured the weight, it was "313g" including the extra links. Miraculously, we currently have another one in stock this year, which is the second one we have this year, but it is a rare model that is hard to find even if you search both domestically and internationally.

"Ref.5520P-001"
"Alarm Travel Time" Platinum

Next, we will introduce the new 2019 model, the Alarm Travel Time, Ref. 5520P-001, which at first glance looks like the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time, Ref. 5524. With push buttons on both sides of the case, two small windows with numbers at the 12 o'clock position on the dial, two display windows above and below it , an ebony black sunburst dial, and a heavy platinum case, when you understand each detail, you will realize that this is a watch that is no ordinary watch. As the model name suggests, the idea of ​​adding an alarm mechanism to the conventional travel time mechanism is unique to Patek Philippe.

If you look at the newly developed movement "Cal.AL 30-660 SC FUS", you can see that it has a structure similar to a "minute repeater". That's because when the alarm time comes, a hammer strikes a gong and sounds for about 35 seconds. The alarm sound is reminiscent of the sound of a "minute repeater" and is very beautiful. It is a model that will impress anyone who sees it, not only for its functionality but also for its looks.

"Ref.5078P-001"
『Minute Repeater』Platinum

It is a beautiful model with a moderately sized 38mm case diameter, a heavy platinum case, a simple design with black railway scale markings on a white enamel dial, and Roman numeral indexes baked into it. I have seen many Patek Philippe minute repeater models, but what is particularly noteworthy about this model is its tone. It may sound a little exaggerated, but it has a beautiful tone that is so moving that I think it has already reached the level of art.

This particular watch was sold quite late, with the warranty date being 2016, and it came with a genuine folding buckle, making it a bargain. It's definitely one I'd like to own again.

"Ref.3970EJ-051"
"Perpetual Calendar Chronograph" 18KYG

This model, which is the second generation of the "Ref.3970", uses leaf-shaped hands and bar indexes like the first generation, but only the sub-dials have been changed to the same color as the dial. Incidentally, the leaf-shaped hands are an important element that creates a classical atmosphere, and are only found in the first and second generations, and are very rare, with a production period of only five years. Also, the hallmark engraved on the lug side is a feature of the second generation.

Most of the second-generation "Ref. 3970" watches have a screw-down closed back, but in the latter half of the production period (around 1986-1991), there was also a skeleton back specification, and this particular watch was exactly that. The "Cal. CH 27-70 Q", which is based on a Lemania movement and can be seen through the sapphire crystal back, is simply beautiful. In March 2022, the manufacturer overhauled the watch, finished the exterior, and even replaced the leather strap with a new one. The accessories included a warranty, pass case, booklets, serial tag, closed back cover, adjustment pin, and a special box, making it a perfect collector's item. Since I started working in the watch industry, I have seen many Patek Philippe watches, but this is a special one that I think is particularly beautiful and memorable.

"Ref.5970G-001"
"Perpetual Calendar Chronograph" 18KWG

The Ref. 5970 was released in 2004 in 18KWG (white gold) and 18KRG (rose gold) specifications as the successor to the third generation "Perpetual Calendar Chronograph" Ref. 3970. In 2008, an 18KYG (yellow gold) model was released, and in 2009, a PT (platinum) model with a black dial was released , and this is the first 18KWG (white gold) model to arrive. The combination of the slightly grayish dial, which is the same color as the case, and the burnished hands and indexes makes this one of the coolest watches in the Ref. 5970 series.

The "Ref. 5970" has been enlarged from 36mm to 40mm, and I think that the sub-dials, moon phase arrangement, and tachymeter scale written on the outer circumference of the dial are all perfectly balanced in design. Incidentally, at the PHILLIPS watch auction held in Geneva on November 5th and 6th, 2022, the winning bid amount was the same as that of the PT (platinum) model (approximately 39.5 million yen in Japanese yen). The market conditions are still difficult to read, but this is a model to keep an eye on next year and beyond.

summary

What did you think.

In 2022, we handled many Patek Philippe watches, but looking back, I chose the models that left the strongest impression on me. These are models that are hard to come by, but I hope to introduce them in detail the next time they arrive.

There is not much time left this year and the weather is getting colder, so please be sure to take care of your health.

see you!